Jump to content

oltoot

Members
  • Content Count

    804
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by oltoot

  1. I have done this many times in my 50+ years of saddle work and the answer is, most of the time but proceed cautiously. Location will matter. If you can find a clean spot (blank in old pattern) odds increase. At any rate, clean spot well before casing to tool. Buena suerte
  2. Reminds me of the 60's in west Texas when ranchers were trying to stretch their pennies. We would patch and lecture that oil is your friend and then in a few more years replace the old fenders unless the oil lecture had brought about a change in behavior
  3. IMHO the best liner is molded veg tan with the smooth side toward the gun. Amount of molding to vary depending on gun travel. Or if the body (outside) has been leveled and therefore is smooth then no liner is the best. The choices boil down to intended use of the item meaning a holster (no lining) vs a transport or storage case (padded but still smooth). Maker's choice!
  4. There was a saying re the older Harleys and these things: "never leave home without one full of tools or you might not get back"
  5. Plated rigging probably makes it mid to early post WWII. Make sure that cleaning leaves leather damp not redried before using anything else. Lexol NF would be preferable to pure neatsfoot.
  6. Note the collar pads or a saddle pad stay still next to the horse and isolate the horse's skin from movement, pressure, etc. The addition of fleece lining to a moving part is just that-an addition
  7. In my many years of making repairing and using of tack, sheepskin linings are a catch place for foreign objects, sweat caking, and an unavoidable addition of bulk, Only the skirt linings have a good place, (+ bar paddings on pack saddles), note that the sheepskin is separated from skin by something so that must be part of the evaluation process. must be an allergy/ sensitivity kind of issue. Look at the horse side of the sweat leathers for dark, slick spots and they could lead you to pressure and/or irritation points then maybe a redesign of the sweat leathers could be indicated?
  8. Here are some approaches that proved successful, strength was from skirt attachment to tree
  9. Bien hecho! The only observation I would add is that thru~20 years of use on mine I ended up with 4 nail magnets spaced around for different feet and ended up using them all about equally, and I would also suggest small "drain" holes at the bottom of each one of the molded nipper pockets
  10. Standard Rivit Company of Boston Massachuesets makes a small (Model #2) spotter/loop stapler
  11. Then you can tap and drill a hole for the screw in the cap to keep it in place. Another option would be to drill and tap a filler piece to the top then traditional cover over it, as to origins metal horns exposed not as strong but trees much easier to make and therefore cheaper in the day. IN some (not all) Wade trees the horn and fork are all one piece of wood vs bronze core bolted to fork for others. Lots of ways to skin a cat. BTW the Vaquero trees from Mexico had one piece horns and forks, in fact, some had the entire tree carved out of a single cottonwood root in one piece.
  12. It can be "compounded" with just about anything so it is best to find a named (other than NFO Compound) product that suits you and stick to it as all NF oil compounds are created equal.
  13. Over the years iT FOUND IT TO BE a worthwhile investment to get a collection of stones to just fit inside of my french edgers
  14. This is late, I know but cut blues for fitting and roughing (anything that has a chance of being pulled and reset) then #6 X appropriate length (3/4 to 1 1/2) coarse thread ph construction screws for finalization except cement coated nails (any good hdwe store) on top of skirts and a few other places.
  15. The stamping pattern and plated dees probably date to 1947-53 when Porters had an apprentice deal with the VA
  16. oltoot

    Rawhide lace

    South Americans use horsehide for some of their best work and skin the yearling down the backbone, leaving the belly in one piece and cut a big circle centered on the belly for string making and use the legs, back and butt for cores. Not gonna find much of this in US, Learned this from Peruvian sheepherders in Wyoming Mountains. At first, camptender thought lions or bears were getting wagon mares colts until the new bosals, reins, etc started showing up!
  17. Everything is still available and all the snow is off the ground around the shop doors
  18. Not quite sure I have the full picture but, generally speaking, when any kind of rigging is sewn down to skirts at the end of construction, the idea is to distribute stress over widest possible area. Conceptually ok but time (IMHO) better spent balancing and attaching rigging in the first place.
  19. Just getting old and shaky and yes I think it would be quite a bargain. One way to look at it would be a reasonable price for the machinery with lots of hand tools thrown in.
  20. I would sell my complete Saddle Shop. All tools, materials, benches, racks required to build saddles and harness. Union Lockstitch and Singer 211U566. Complete set of stamping tools, bench tools, washing and oiling fixtures. This is a $10,000 package but worth much more. Complete list and questions answered via email or telephone. Serious inquiries only, please.
  21. different weights (schedules) of PVC pipe for different size scarf cores then shape with colored duct tape, then braid
  22. I knew a few old quartermasters who assured me that the McLellan was primarily designed to be horse friendly not rider friendly but over time, improvements were made with the trooper in mind. The model in the pictured is the 1917, one of the most advanced but I never knew an old cavalry Sargent who wasn't one tough booger. Endurance saddles are much like them?
×
×
  • Create New...