Bigfoote

I use a 4mm with .8 or 1.0 tiger thread. This is a good do anything middle of the road size. If your just starting out, don't buy cheap tools, they are a waste of money and you will not get good results. Some leather suppliers will sell smaller square pieces of leather, which will allow you to try some out before buying a whole side. Mattsbagger gave you some good advice on thickness, pretty much what everyone uses. If your looking for stitching chisels I might recommend these : https://leathercrafttools.com/item?id=6540 They go against the " don't buy cheap tools" rule, and are awesome IMHO. I bought a six tooth and a two tooth, pretty much all you need. I have three other brands of chisels, none compare. They will only barely stitch through about double 8oz leather, so if your doing a lot of holsters you will have to use your awl with them. I do mostly wallets so they are great. I use Tandy leather to make patterns and prototypes because it is cheap. It doesn't tool well, and is generally poor quality, but does have a use when you are fooling around trying new stuff.

Nice job! Are you using old shell box liners for the interior? I went to the shooting range, picked up a bunch from the garbage, now I'm ready to make some holders. These will last a long time!

I use olive oil or Pure Neatsfoot oil to soften the leather then resolene cut 50/50 with water for a finish. You can get some real poor leather at Tandy, good to practice with but my experience is go elsewhere where they sell some good leather like Herman oak or Wicket and Craig.

It's an awesome job there, can't wait to see the finished product. Everyone here knows how hard it is to make a nice case like that, but sometimes we have opinions. Now I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't have said anything about the straps, but that was just my opinion. The main thing is it's an awesome nice job so far and you should be proud of it!

I use spruce or pine. If the mold is going to be used a lot, varnish it or it will start staining your leather. Any carpenter or cabinet shop would be able to make molds for you.

I just recently bought an awesome stitching chisel from Leathercrafttools.com It was around $25 for a two tooth and a six tooth chisel, and they work better than anything else I have used. https://leathercrafttools.com/item?id=6540 Get yourself a set of these, #4, and you will be well on your way. Delivery was 15 days. Watch this as well.

Gum Trag will stick those fibers down, especially if you have a glass slicker. I use it on the flesh side of most of my stuff to smooth it out after removing the tape I use to keep the leather from stretching when I tool. Let it soak in a little and a little elbow grease will have it looking nice. A bone folder will work if you don't have a glass slicker.

Maybe try some Gum Trag on the straps and then burnish then real good. That will get rid of the fuzz anyway. Too nice of a bag to leave the straps like that. Great job on the piping, better than I have ever done yet!

Looks real good for someone who hasn't been doing it for a while. I agree with JL, but it still looks pretty good.

Welcome Juddie! For a start you are doing great! Your tooling and designs look good. You asked for advise, and the only thing I would work on is your stitching, something that comes with practice. There are loads of videos out there showing how to improve your stitching, I would recommend Nigel Armitage, his are probably the easiest to watch. He gives good advise on tools as well. Your off to a great start and you will get better the more you do, you obviously have the talent for it! Be careful it's very addictive! Have fun, Garry.

Wow! That's just awesome!

Wow this looks great! Not sure I like the straps with the flesh side out, think it distracts from a beautiful bag.

Yup, location and price would be helpful.

You really have to make a video showing how you did this, very interesting and creative. Good job!

I'd say machine. Some machines make a stitch that looks just like a saddle stitch. If your rebuilding it it'll be easy to tell when you start pulling stitches out. Don't you just love what leather does when it's been in someone's pocket for a few years? Looks soft and comfortable!

Awesome, that geometric stamping is beautiful!

Canada!

I had the very same frustrating problem, could never get nice white thread to stay white. My solution, though not perfect, was to dye and finish with a coat of resolene before I punched or awl the holes. It helps a lot, but like I said after stitching a long row your leather still starts to stain a little. Then let it dry at least a couple days before a final coat of resolene or what ever you are finishing with.

I noticed some folks wanting samples of the different colors of Tiger thread. Cy at Leatherwurx has samples and will sell you small quantities for special projects where you don't want to buy a whole roll. He is real good to deal with as well. Garry. https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/218679671/samples-22-tiger-thread-samples-ritza-25?ref=hp_rv

If you broke those needles your holes are too small!

You won't get it out, do the whole piece with light coats until it matches. It will lighten up a lot, so go slow.

Thanks James, a lot has to do with practice, practice, practice. I sewed together tons of scraps, and took a long time to figure out how to get a nice corner, I still make mistakes but most can be fixed. I alternate between an awl and a stitching chisel. If I'm in a hurry I go to the chisel, if not I use the awl. Your bag looks pretty good, your stitching will get better, and right now looks a lot better than my first attempts. One thing I will repeat, John James needles will help a lot. They don't drag and I have never broke one yet! I'm not selling them, just like to tell folks when I find a great product. Tiger thread is my go to, but I also have a couple rolls of the cheap Chinese thread, it's about .7mm with a long delivery time.

I'm working with pretty much the same stuff except I'm using 1.0 Tiger thread. I haven't had a problem backstitching. I switched to John James harness needles size 1/0 because I was having to use pliers to pull almost every stitch with my Tandy needles. You really have to watch where you put the needle in on the backstitch so you lay that second stitch in the proper place, trying not to pierce the first layer of stitching. I use my scratch awl to direct the lay of the thread as I pull it tight. I can't tell by the picture. but maybe your awl is a little small for that size of thread? Hope this helps.

I have stitched a lot, like the rest who have given good advice here. At 6 SPI I would go with 1.0 mil thread but I would toss those Tandy needles and get some John James needles, in my mind no comparison. I use size 1/0 for .8 and 1.0 thread, hope that helps.

It kind of looks like the stuff Tandy calls "Kodiak" not sure though.