Troy I

Very nice

Wow great video... very helpful

I've had the something happen, some times it will even out, but most of the time it does not. Here is how I fixed this problem; 1. Dip dye very quickly, do not let the leather sit in the dye for more than a second or 2. 2. Dip dye before you put holes in your project. This is very important, because dye will follow the path of least resistance, allowing more dye to saturate the leather where the holes are, just like it did on your edges. 3. If all else fails -- dye it black. Good luck.

Very nice.

I like it...GOOD JOB

Welcome from a follow Virginian.

I've looked and can't find any in the area ...I get my leather from Wickett & Craig in PA.

Set your project to the side for a day or so until it is completely dry then sew it on your machine.

Impressive !!!!!

Dip dye some scrap and see what happens.

Rest in peace, my friend. May God always be at your side. Troy

I don't know what your buffing so much for. I buff to remove excess dye and to achieve the shine I want.

You can also try rubbing alcohol on a rag, this will take off the finish on your edges. Then re-dye the edges with the color that you want, and burnish while the dye is still damp. Not sure if this will work, but might be worth a try.

I too have looked and looked, but can't find them. I've contact Ohio Travel Bag and they don't have them. Sorry I'm not much help, but I hope someone on here can help.

You can get both from a butcher shop...i have even seen Lard in Wal-Mart. You might have to melt the beef fat down, if it comes as hunks of fat.

I would treat the leather with a pure neatsfoot oil or Montana Pitch Blend Oil, or maybe Belvior Leather Balm..if you don't treat the leather it will become dry, crack and possibly split while she is carrying her camera. Only use light coats of oil, too much will overly darken the leather. In my experience Belvior darkens the least of the items I have mentioned. This is just my opinion...I'm sure others will have other ideas. Troy

My computer will not let me open your catalog...can you post a link to your Esty web page?

They say HO hide is good...I've never used it. The leather that I use is from Wickett & Craig, and always use there Standard grade, good leather, the only problem I had was with their lower grade of leather when I first started. Most of the time you just have to try different techniques and see what works for you, and remember that every piece of leather "acts" different even when it's cut from the same hide.

I have had the same results with resolene...I now use Belvior leather balmsam and then use at least 3 or 4 coats of Renaissance Wax. The color stays pretty close to what it looked like before the finish coats were put on, remember that almost anything you put on the leather will darken it some. Dye before assembling, this way the leather is of the same thickness, this will help in getting a consistent color.

Did you dye before or after assembling? How long have your holsters been drying? I always dye before assembling and let dry for at least 24 hours. I use saddle tan a lot and have never diluted it. My method is to submerge the leather for 10 to 15 seconds, then wipe off any excess and put on my bench to dry. This is what works fome...l'm sure someone else will respond with the way they do it.

I use a washer to trace my corner, then cut as close to the line as I can...then use a dremal tool to sand the high points, thus making it round.

Try Wickett & Craig...good leather, but you have to buy either a whole side, a back or a belly. They will not sell it by the foot.

PM with email address sent for your catalog.

My holsters are able to hold a loaded gun while being held upside down.

Wickett & Craig for good leather