garypl

I would just use it for lining

Very interesting- nice job!

Matt - I made up a batch using some aniline powder, wood glue and hot water. Tried a Sample burnish and am very pleased with the results! Thanks for posting this! Gary

I wouldn’t use anything heavier than 3-4 oz. if you want to keep the thickness down. Tandy website should have some free patterns.

If you want to confirm the leather is the right moisture level before putting a stamp to your workpiece, cut another piece of scrap from the same piece as your project and wet it at the same time you do your project piece. Test on the scrap and if it looks good, then move to your project piece. Might save you some aggravation. This might not work as well if you are using a large piece for your project and the scrap is much smaller, but as long as it is the same thickness, should get you in the ballpark. Gary

I use either clear packing tape on the back or I use rubber cement to attach the piece to an old plastic placemat - either work ok.

I have had good luck with W&C - have you tried calling and talking with Matt Bressler? He should be able to take care of you.

Like Frodo said, what did you buy? If they misrepresented the product you should ask them to make you whole. Personally, I would not be happy with the leather shown in your pictures because of what appears to be bad scratch marks in several places. That being said, if I bought the leather at a large discount knowing up front that there would be a lot of waste, maybe this would be expected. Send clear pictures to your supplier and tell him why you are not satisfied with your purchase and tell them what you would like them to do about it. Either they will work with you to keep your business or you will have to take your business elsewhere.

If they misrepresented the leather they sold you, I would send them pics and explain why you are not happy with the items you bought. If they are a reputable supplier they should be glad to receive your feedback and work with you to fix it. Gary

Why not bolt a speed reducer on it? That and a servo motor should allow you to slow it down to a stitch per second with no loss of torque.

I make a butt joint on the beer growler case by running a stitch line down each side of the joint using @3 stitches per inch. Then hand stitch between the two rows pulling the edges up tight. Finish with a strip glued on the inside overlapping the joint. Makes a very strong joint.

Like this

Maybe just look for an acrylic floor polish - someone must sell this type product outside the USA.

Agree with Josh - Mop & Glo or Pledge for finish cut 50/50 with distilled water is a great finish!

Look forward to seeing the finished piece!

Nice job! Creative use of stamps too!

I wouldn’t - I think it makes it look cheap. Hand stitching should be adequate to keep it together! Nice job, by the way!

Item has been sold

Welcome Zaika! I use acrylic paints on leather both full strength and diluted with distilled water if painting with a squeeze bottle. Both seem to be very durable, as long as the leather is not subject to a lot of flexing. I prefer an acrylic finish like Resolene to apply on top of paint, preferably sprayed on to avoid any chance of smearing the paint. I use a lot of floor polishes like Mop and Glow or Pledge, diluted 50/50 with distilled water and they seem to work as well as Resolene. Best to experiment by painting a small scrap and apply finish of your choice before working on your project. Good luck! Gary

Nice job! I like the way you attached the handles!

I have a Techsew 2700 for sale for pickup in Loganville, GA. Unit works great - I no longer use it much because I have two other machines that cover the range I need. Equipped with servo motor and speed reducer, work light, and includes needles, bobbins and a couple of spools of thread. This is a great machine for sewing lighter weight items up to about 12 oz weight leather with thread up to 138. I normally keep it loaded with 92 thread. I don't want to ship this, so local pickup in Loganville, GA or I can deliver in Atlanta metro area for $75. Asking $1200 if picked up in Loganville. Thanks for looking. Gary

Very nice job and great detai!

So I switched thread in my CB4500 from 207 to 346. Installed new needle and sewed a test piece. Would not pull knots up into the workpiece, so I started adjusting top and bottom tensions. Nothing seemed to improve the problem. Bobbin thread very hard to pull out even with bobbin tension screw turned several turns out. Played around with adjustments for 20 minutes and no improvement. Finally decided that the bobbin looked pretty full, so I took it out and stripped off about 5 feet of thread. Reinstalled the bobbin and thread came out nice and easy! Too much thread on the bobbin was causing binding. Restarted from the beginning and adjusted top and bottom tensions and sewed perfectly. Moral of the story - save time and aggravation and check the easy items first before making big adjustments to your machine!

Everything already mentioned but the leather you use will also be a big factor. Properly cased quality leather (typically Herman Oak or Wickett & Craig here in the USA).will tool and carve much easier with better results than some of the cheaper leathers out there. Gary

Welcome Jesse! Very nice looking projects you posted - I am sure you will find a lot of good information from the members of this forum. Look forward to seeing more of your work! Gary