plinkercases

Sometimes I make one larger and sometime not (depends on the thicknesses since thinner tends to wander a little more) and also I will use WAXED paper to help prevent premature sticking of items when gluing them. Good video Dwight thanks. Nice touch where the liner and the outer meet at the buckle end. That's one hefty belt.

Looks like you are talking about the copper rivet - reputed to be the strongest and I believe it - there is a discussion on this thread about them and the setting tools:

Very thoughtful and very good work as well.

an overstitch wheel will give the look of stitching.

My copy is literally on my bed side book shelf for some late night comfort reading!

TechSew has a speed reducer which is 154 CND which interestingly enough is more than half the cost of the servo motor and is just passive metal parts. I think buying parts and making one is a more cost effective way to go for me.

Cool idea. I could just use the first one as my Alias is Waylon Willie.

Josh thanks for the insight into your craftsmanship. Looking forward to seeing the whole order completed.

This is so very cool for sewing machines and those trying to build burnisher https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng.aspx

Very nice! lets see backside and loops as well. As a CAS shooter are you going to make a matching ammo belt?

As I am swapping out to a TechSew servo on my new/old machine I have removed the original clutch motor (anchor...bloody heavy)..... As the subject line says it is a Constructions Electriques Super Motor type M603850 C26. Made in Belgium. Still trying to get a clear picture of the name plate and data. It ran very very quiet when I tested it before buying it and the clutched seemed very smooth and didn't not jump or slip as I ran up the speed as slowly as I could. So a few question as always: should I put it on my Singer 95K51? which has a noisy old motor on it.. should I keep it as spare in case the servo ever packs it in? is there any value in it such that is worth putting up for sale (I am in Toronto Ont Can...so buyer proximity/market is a factor I cant find anything on line to help date it or about the company of any real use. I am sure there is a motor guru here who could chime in.

Well done once gain Ryan.

in researching I see the term hand wheel and balancing wheel and it seems they are almost interchangeable....but if I was to change the "wheel" on my machine to a larger one to make hand rotating easier I have a few questions: is the solid wheel weight a necessity as a flywheel effect on the machines operation? if the wheel and head pulley were both replaced with a larger/lighter pulley to make hand crank and reduction all in one.... will the loss of wheel mass affect machine operation? where can one get larger diameter solid hand/balancing wheels to replace the smaller one with? I have tried all kinds of searches. Machine is a Pfaff 335 as some may have guessed Thanks in advance.

What are peoples experience and preferences for operating hight and this operators position for cylinder beds? Low and sitting, mid way on a stool or high and standing? Pros and cons? Thanks in advance.

The machine and a whack of leather are in the back of van on the way to the farm shop and a TechSew 550 servo on the way! thanks to all the links and this discussion I have all the manuals I need down loaded already. As mentioned I will ask fro a little help identifying some of the feet I got in a bag and sourcing a swing down guide. Will be looking for a little larger hand wheel now and then I will QUITE my day job and live in the shop!!! Officially a multiple machine fella now.

Agreed with dikman on the form serving the function and hunting or range carry being very different than for CAS shooting. I would post shots of my CAS shotgun belt slides but sadly I realised I have never taken any... here is a nice Stohlman graphic of some different approaches... I like style 2 for cartridges but would use style 1 for shells... I guess some feel that style 3 avoids lots of slots punched in the belt and perhaps allowing It to sag more over time... which have witnessed... but if you line or double layer the belt after doing the loops the belt gains a little more stability due to the lamination. Will Ghormley's aptly named cartridge belt pattern pack gives loop style details and measurements and slot sized etc. good pack to get actually fro many reasons. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

I am very excited and got a whack of leather - $1200 CDN ( like 6 dollars USD!!) for the machine and $500 CDN for way more than that in leather. I would love to have a drop down guide and flat bed attachment though I think I can make one of those..... now I just need to quit my day job so I can play with it all - all day long. My new (to me but old model) machine pictured has a solid but small wheel...tough to hand set the needle and kick start it.

Well done on design and execution. Thanks for the John 15:13 reminder.....

So I went and saw and touched and ran the machine and was very impressed. The owner had it all tuned up when he got it but he could get comfortable controlling it as there was no reducer and it just shot his project out the back! he ended up just using it t punch holes and then hand stitched..... He had his needle in backwards and it was too large for the thread but.... I bought the machine!!! I was impressed with what I could run through it which was 3 layers of what looked like 9-11 oz. and it went like through butter and mechanically very quiet. I was also thrilled that it also had a working reverse and went backwards hole per hole! This model can only open up to about 4mm stitch length as had been indicated by the codes provided in the other post/thread but I think that considering the limits of the thread size that is fine for what I want to do. Now here's a few new questions: how do I go about sourcing and installing a larger hand wheel? what HP servo should I be looking for to replace the clutch motor? where might I get a guide for it? There as a bag of odds and ends including some various presser feet some of which I recognised and others not sure so when I get it I will have to post pics and ask for some knowledge as to what they are for specifically. And he sold me all his leather stock at much less than 50 cents on the buck. We had a great chat about the craft and he showed some of his work and we talked about how it was ashamed he had to stop fro health reasons... for now... I told him I would not even ask to see his hand tools and stamps etc. because if he sold those he was really done. Now I need to convince a teenage son to help move it down 3 flights of stairs!! - broken down of course.

Thanks Gigi for the great link. Normally Google finds threads on the site from but I missed this one.

Thanks dikman and here is the picture that fell off my OP

Well done. It is a great reference (and history!) book and even with serious leather and iron on some of the fellas looked just goofie in their studio pictures.... while others you could tell are the real deal.

Does anyone have experience with a Pfaff 335 BB (H3L?) older model pictured below. New model description indicates appropriate for "small leather goods" in addition to leather garment. It has a clear lift of 14mm or .55 inch. This one has a clutch motor. would it suited for holster/sheaths/belts and cases? etc? not looking to do 3/4 of an inch for sure.

Order the Al Stohlman "Belts Galore" PDF from Tandy and the pattern is on page 26 of the PDF.

OK I will just have to be satisfied with pictures as I suspected. And I think you will soon be a very viable Maker with respect to the value of your work....lets not set the bar at RICH perhaps but how about viable or successful or even better contented swell guy.