plinkercases

Beautiful work for sure. Only one thought for the next one in this style would be work in a large keeper so that the wide belts stay aligned when overlapped. There is a chance over time they will "fan out" or torque as a friend says and the billets will warp to allow it. The one in this (my player of the week beer belt) picture isn't pretty in any way but does demonstrate the larger keeper at the far left to help the overlap stay where you want it. the other picture is off the interweb and also shows the same principle but done up.

A quick Google search came up with a bunch of laser cutting places that I am sure could do it from a proper file - and it highlighted the TO ones since that is where I am "located" - thanks fro asking so now I know where to go! Let me know what you find out.

I was just looking at a 562 class 3 someone in Montreal was selling on Kijiji.... good price but small bobbin and no reverse on the class 3. EDIT - double checked and it was Ottawa but we conversed in French so... and it was 400 CDN

Vintage chaps often had pockets but usually exterior ones... last week I did see pair advertised with "rare inside" pockets like Roland has made. Roland more flowers, leaves and vines... less back ground!!!

Roland you are a natural!!.... well done and thanks for the process pics as they are always fun to see. I really like the inside pocket approach.

if you do a shoe thing please start a thread we can all follow along and learn from!

Just a note to those who may read this.... Jayker has been a fully engaged, patient and flexible seller however I needed to withdraw from the process for emergent financial reasons and he was understanding and gracious. I would deal with him anytime (assuming I have the funds secured!) Thanks again Jayker and good luck with your sales.

Well done and may your business give you a good ride!

Thanks wiz...point taken (no pun intended) and i have 18 and 19 on order. I have been using 16x231 needles which are DBx1 needles as I understand. DoninReno thanks for the tips and i have just slowed it with a reducer so thats ok... and thanks for the lead on where to get abrasive cord and the simple process to isolate the rough spots on the path.

Very similar approach but the bungie cord is an added touch of class! Yes sir I would also like more info on the hand wheel swap....

Fair enough thanks. with a needle smaller than 22 I have in now the hole and thread will look more proportioned.

Now thats wow!. I tried to find a pully for the machine and larger hand wheel but rhe ID is just larger than 1/2 and smaller than 5/8... i could find anything off the shelf and am still considering getting something machined. Where is you get yours? And clever McGybering using other sources for the motor and controls. For my other machine i already have a servo motor to install.

Thanks for the clarification Bob and i will try 92 and of no luck then be happy with 69 and and use the machine for the appropriate materials and projects. Glad I asked rather then keep banging away missinformed... or at least missunderstanding the manual. Would using a size up needle improve the chance of 92 working?

To begin with I have searched, read and followed a lot of similar threads for other machines and tried a lot of the fixes which I could so far. The manual states it can run a 23/160 needle and thus 207 thread BUT I have only tried to set up for 138 thread and : when I set the bobbin tension as usual and get the top stitch looking excellent the bottom thread runs straight and flat - almost look good until you look closer when I loosen the bobbin then the bottom thread runs crazy and loose when I reset the bobbin tension and tighten the top tension more (essentially as far as I can ) the bottom starts to come up but the top thread starts to fray My question then based on other fix suggested are it is not the OME feed dog plate so perhaps the needle hole is too small? how can it be enlarged? there was mention of an abrasive cord but I cant find it again. I have a spare and go dremmel on it but prefer something subtler. could the top tension spring, discs, or whole assembly need replacing - but if more tension then more fraying? I always use all 3 holes on the thread retainer but would more wraps of the thread it help increase tension and perhaps not induce fraying? I have some 92 thread and 19 and 20 needles on order and will try that as soon as it arrives. I would be happy with 92 for all I plan to do on this machine. Actually happy with the 69 but would be more happier with more...138 yah!!... I don't dare dream of 207..... will the improved torque of the reducers help with the up lift? my science gut say no but these are weird machines these sewing machines I lost my pictures and sample got chucked in a clean up after the reducer install but the results are exactly as described above. Any thoughts on this specific case folks?

I finally completed my franken-reducer set up on the singer and WOW what a difference. As much as I appreciate the lower speed it is the controlled start up I love and with just a little practice on the pedal I was getting single stich placement. It is doing a great job punching through about 22 oz just for fun with #69 thread. The manual for this very machine sasy it can go up to a 23 needle and this 207 thread but I could NOT get it to pull up the button with even 138. BUT that's another thread. I learned a lot with working this set up out so it will be easier for my Pfaff335 which is coming downstairs tomorrow. I can just imaging what a servo and reducer set up will be like for control. Right now it starts at 1275 motor RPM and 3 inch motor pulley belt drives 6 inch reducer pulley which then shaft drives - 1.5 inch pulley that belt drives the 2.5 inch machine pulley at approx. 425 rpm (calculator doesn't do half inch increments) so a 1/3 drop through the system. I have a smaller motor pulley coming which will replace the OME 3 inch and make things even better. A few lessons: cut the shaft a little longer than you think so you have some room to spread out and align the pulleys used shims at the top (or bottom) of the mounting board to help get belts more aligned - pictures are pre shim as the idea came when looking at them and really seeing where the belts needed a little more space and alignment when enlarging the belt slot in the table go bigger than you think the first time as this stuff is impossible to "shave off a little more" buy a few belts around the size you think/measure you will need so you have some option without running back to the store... can always return them after the next one is done. drop the motor to the mid point so you have room to move in either direction before setting the pulley assembly placement cut the boards that clamp to the table legs long than you think so you have lots of adjustment room for the final pulley placement threaded rod make great universal length bolts!! buy a complete set of metric and imperial long allen keys..... it is worth every minute of effort and the few dollars in stuff to do this. I am very pleased with how it all fit together and lined up. Thanks to the inspiration from photos of someone else's set up... who I can recall their name right now but they will recognize the approach. This is definitely one of the things I wish I had learned about before!

I am in TO and will take a pound or 2... I will email for complete the connection.

Brian we are lucky to be the beneficiaries of your poor memory and need to document your process for yourself in the collective memory forum. This is fascinating to see... thanks as always for sharing your craft. Murray

Very cool.

OK wow let me have think and bank balance review (read justification process) and will get back to you.

message sent thanks also interested in the edgers thanks.

But we Canadians really are friendly..... OK thanks anyhow. Sorry....

I am curious also as I live in Toronto and if there is stuff still available I would like to check it out.

Where are you?

Have a blessed day today and many many more and thank you for this forum.

Jayker2002 I am in TO and wish I had seen this earlier... dang. There are a few things I would have gone for.