plinkercases

Reminds me of what one of my mentors in business told me..."Just because you can do something doesn't mean you should."... handy even outside work!

nice work

I have a clutch motor left over now and am thinking about using it to drive a home made burnishing and or buffing set up but would like to know the preferred speeds for both operations on leather edges and finishes. Burnishing: From what I have searched and read here and on the web is the machine rpm can range from 2000-3750. I have found calculation for the actual speed at the surface of the burnishing tool. So... what is the most recommended speed/rpm (or range) for the machine and/or the burnisher surface? Buffing: Research is resulting in info on metal polishing or just stock shoe shining machines... so what is the ideal rpm (range) for the machine and/or buffing wheel/pad surface for leather products and finishes? Thanks in advance Murray

Fantastic stuff. I like how you used what looks like a backgrounder around the basket weave instead of a cammo....

I like this one better than the first. Nice work for sure.

Thanks that was enjoyable and I can identify with all the comments above... would love to be able to do that but...alas.. time.. money.. space... love watching it done... and ya you could simply buy one but why if you can make one?

My hand gun instructor also taught me to put my thumb in the hammer or back of slide when holtering so i had had certainty that nothing moved. Unless of course you carry cocked and locked.....

Thanks Ferg What gauge and hardness strapping did you use and did you form them then put the edge on them? This is exactly what I was thinking about for some simple but repetitive shapes I need to make. did you use a carving tool, router or Dremmel to make the groove in the wood backer?

wrt to the holster where the throat comes up over the rear sights....Yes I have and again the answer is a planning the pattern and then a little wet forming and running the gun in and out to make the higher leather recurve at the sights protects them but does not hit them. Somewhere I have a book that talks about this very issue and I recall the process being as I have described. Patterning and forming for revolvers is one thing but the "art" gets little more complex with semi-autos where you want to watch the "form" doesn't then interfere with function as in a holster that releases mags or engages safeties.... or racks slides back enough to move the hammer.

Even if you are not form fitting the holster for friction retention but just for a good seating you can use the dowel method above to form a sight channel in a more loosely molded/boned holster. It will make a difference on the flesh side even if it doesn't show on the outside. Also make sure you really slick the flesh side along that part of the holster to flatten/harden the fibres so they aren't catching. you may even be able bone a very slight and smooth channel inside before you fold and sew the pouch. Sometimes if you can look into the holster and see the spot(s) where the site is really dragging and if it is just a the top as a result of the angle of the draw you can modify the throat contour to have the sight clear the leather a little sooner. I have had to use a combination of the above at times.... and sometimes it can be fully eliminated.

Ferg any pictures of your home made dies?

I am a bordeau fan myself. interested to see your project progress. I went to university with guys who just sat spinning wire around a pencil then clipping and making chain mail.... me I drank and made piles of bottle caps. I think their bodies are probably better off than mine....

Yes both hose books provide great info on mittered box construction and sewing and the Tandy Library Site sells them in PDF for download.

What a beautiful piece of machinery. Well done.

Inspiring work for sure.

Looks comfortable and solid.

Rule #1 - No hammers on thumbs Rule #2 - Don't try to pick up Thor's hammer Rule # whatever (perhaps more of a guideline?)- don't strike metal tools with a metal hammer - but some think that is not that important wrt to peening the end of the tools and possible eventually shrapnel. I follow it mostly because metal on metal gets to my tinnitus.... to many years banging things with my hammer with no ear protection.

Here is a good reference site on vintage holster making etc. https://www.vintagegunleather.com/

here is a good reference site on vintage holster making etc. https://www.vintagegunleather.com/

I also follow the no metal on metal rule when hitting things with hammers...other than nails of course.

I only use the dead blow for my makers marks and 3D stamps like letters. Hard polly Mauls or mallets for punches and setting rivets etc.

Jeff Thanks for sharing your learning approach - makes absolute sense to me - and the link the those amazing horse carvings and tutorials.

Fantastic and inspiring work here folks thanks. This is the closest I have come to a figure carving...hockey team logo on a "Player of the Week Beer Holster Belt" - so once they got it and used it they were very "happy" with it!! I may try something more artistic soon - I used to do clay relief/modeling so the 3D visualization is there just need to get the hang of the medium and tools... ya just that....

Thanks and yes i have experienced tan lines! Now i cover with canvas drop cloth also to separate heavy oiled site like latigo from veg.

So I have seen it both ways...Tandy rolls grain in for storage and shipping.... a friend who has had a leather working business for years rolls grain out for shipping (in box) and storing ..or stacked flat. now I don't ship but do store..... so for storage roll it grain our or in? preferences? pros - cons? (other then the obvious of damage to the grain side).... is there something to do with storing the grain side slightly stretched or under compression?