plinkercases

Small draw string bags? I make those out of road side couch hides and sell them to the fantasy game folks for there dice and figures etc. They could carry his memory on them....

OK there are a few Rona near me. Thanks

Bonecross thanks I am a Canuck as well and will look for this. Home depot? Lowes? Home Hardware?

Welcome as you briefly pop out of the shadows. Lets some of the stuff.....

Throw a SG shell slide on there and you are all set for three gun. Nice work.

For tooling and light punching and rivets - I started with Mallets but only use a maul. I get way better balance, control and more forgiving for when you happen to strike off the line of the tool. But oddly enough are more consistent that way. I believe having the striking face closer to the centre line of the handle and hot having a weighted bit sticking out the opposite side helps greatly. Much easier on the wrist too. For heavy punching and rivets I use a #2 (lbs) Thorex Mallet with the hard nylon (white) striking faces (you can get different one such as rubber etc.). For my makers stamps I use a 1.5 pound Power Fist "dead blow" hammer which gives ZERO bounce. Excellent for makers marks. Hope this helps.

What size are they?

You build cool stuff. They make a nice sharp imprint.

Tandy EcoWeld... I have used it with acceptable results. https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/ecoweld-water-based-grain-to-grain-adhesive-250ml

yes Boriqua that is also what I use.

if you take shelf lining roll/paper which has a sticky side and then stick the piece to it that will keep the leather from stretching and the adhesive is light enough not to gum up the pack of the piece or pull stands outs etc. Works great and comes in wide rolls for when you are doing larger pieces. AND if you then wanted you can use a little carpet tape on the corners or edges to then keep the deal from moving if you don't like turning the work on the granite when tooling. Nice work on the case by the way.

No just some laser engraving of your logo and you are all set. Nice work.

How about rough and tumble belts? throw a liner on it or braid them like the examples here? Sure its not "suede" but.... shame to throw out all that material that's already paid for from the first product.

Good ideas folks thanks.

Yup the brad point was one of my previous methods but for some reason I am adverse to drilling leather... but it is the best way to go then so be it. Thanks folks.

Thanks Wiz will do.

I used strapping steel (actually the kind used to attached signs to posts etc.) on a little IWB I made and it worked well. I did not go across the front stitch to stitch but around the "round" since it wasn't a pancake design... .but still a flatter back than front. I used a top layer to cover it but it could be buried in 2 layers as you have. it is flexible enough to be workable at the opening to get it shaped then firm enough to hold even between the belt and body. The customer had fair bit of body and hasn't complained of it collapsing. He did not want a lot of holster so this as close to just a gun as I could get for him. He said holstering with one hand was no issue. And your holster isn't so ugly!! and who is ever going to see it? Function first perhaps for and IWB? Looking forward to your second version.

I have a design for a sheath that needs several 1/4 inch holes and I was wondering if there is a punch that is more tubular for a greater depth. I.e. will punch multiple layers (I will use the arbor press) and keep the hole tubular rather than wider a the top due to compression outwards as the punch wall thickens.. I need a constant opening top and bottom as I then install a eyelet. On the heaviest version I use 2 layers of 10-11 so total possible is equal to 20-22 oz. Is there an off the self piece for is likely a custom made tool? My other option to make a jig so if I punch the layers separately the holes are always aligned. Thanks in advance for any experience or suggestions shared.

Thanks I will check around. Do you cut on it as well or just for the punching and under the tooling slab?

They are very impressive. I look forward to seeing some others. I would love to see some progress pics to watch the magic occur.

Hi all, There is a thread on the go now about trying to perhaps convert a singer post machine from a roller foot to presser foot and rather than hi-jack I though I would resurrect this old thread. I still am also looking for a way to concert this to presser foot and seems it will need a new bar and everything. I mention another thread (which now I can t find) where there was a kit mentioned and I was to ask Toledo. I did send then a note a while back and never got a response. So here is the question again if there is any new advice I would love to hear it. I will ping Toledo again...

Other than the end of a log as has been discussed elsewhere what do folks us under there work when punching/dye cutting? My old Tandy poundo boards/matts are at the end of the duty cycle and I think there must be a better alternative to replace them with. A forum search came up with things like: redsheet, Cow/horse stall matt Industrial belt rubber section Any thoughts or experience is appreciated thanks.

On the loop holster was the tab on the backside that catches and flap though the loop part of the design or your innovation? Great way to keep the pouch from riding up in the loop when drawing.

Good job. I love the tri weave but also struggle with it. I guess partly because it is a newer Tandy stamp... their old ones a excellent but the newer ones... I will be slowly replacing them when needed. I like the little detail of the profile along side the knife handle as it comes in a little. Nice touch. Just curious but did you put a welt in this sheath? Cant see the edges to tell.

What are you doing with all those 2mm thick straps if I can ask? and how thick are the side to start with?