dikman

Uwe, of course, is quite right, when selling something you can put any price you like on it BUT in the end it's only worth what someone's prepared to pay. I have the earlier model Seiko and it's a great machine, in fact it's the main machine I now use. If the one you mentioned has a servo then the price probably isn't too bad (as long as it's not worn out). If it's got a clutch motor maybe not quite such a good price, unless you're desperate for it. Are there any photos of it?

As Floyd said, you're referring to a needle positioning system. Servo motors often have it as an option, a sensing device that can be attached to the side of the handwheel. The motor can be set so that the needle stops down or up when you take your foot off the pedal. When I fitted a speed reducer my NPS wouldn't work due to the electronics not coping with the changed ratios caused by the extra pulleys in the drive train. Didn't bother me though as I found it a nuisance and unnecessary for slow speed sewing in leather.

Well, according to my maths (and I was never any good at maths!) you've got a 2:1 reduction, i.e. running at half the speed it was before. Once you can use that big pulley you should notice a big improvement.

Depends on the model. My 211G166 has reverse. The Seiko 8DBxxx machines fall into the same category you are looking at and have reverse, as do many of the Pfaffs. You may be creating a problem for yourself. If you definitely don't want to have to spend time fiddling with a machine then you have no option but to buy new. If you aren't in a hurry then something will likely turn up used eventually, that will suit your needs, but the odds that you will have to do some sort of work on it are probably pretty high. On the other hand, if you intend re-selling once you've finished your losses, if any, will be minimal re-selling a used machine.

It depends how you define "thick". I found this by searching here -

Gary, I reckon making them for trap, skeet etc would be much easier! It's finicky trying to get just the right amount of tension to stop them falling out and yet still make them easy to remove. The pocket method looks neater but is more work than just sewing a strip underneath. Riem, you could also use slightly elasticated webbing instead of leather, then you wouldn't need the strip underneath?

Low end torque on a clutch motor is only useful if you can learn to control the motor - I couldn't. The usual answer in this case is a servo, small motor pulley and speed reducer (works for me). I do agree, though, that if it's a very old motor you have to be careful as there could also be damage to the coil windings due to age. Only worth spending the time on if you're determined to try and keep everything original.

Yep, dowel or a couple of dummy shotgun rounds (I have dummy rounds made up for all my calibres). I made a paper pattern first (lot of trial-and-error) then use that to cut the pocket leather. The pocket is then stitched to the belt or slide. I then dye it, which makes it fairly supple, insert the dowels/shells and form it over them. To form the "valley" between the shells I lay a piece of dowel on the leather between the shells and lightly clamp it in place. When it's all dried the pockets keep their shape.

For cowboy action shooting you want them a bit loose in the loops, otherwise they don't like being pulled out in a hurry. The bottom strip is useful in that case. My last one I made using 2-shell pockets, that way you don't need the strip - but they're a bit more work to make.

I got my 335 to work with #138 - just. It's much happier with #69. I reckon it would be a struggle to use #207 myself.

4 mm is thick enough by itself for the belt unless you want it stiffer, in which case a thinner lining would do that. As for the aesthetics, some like a smooth lined finish, some like the rough finish, it all depends what the buyer wants. Are you going to dye it, as that will stiffen it a bit? It's going to be a fair bit of work keeping the stitch lines nice and straight if you're doing a lot of loops.

Can you post photos of the motor and where the wires are hanging out?

Are you talking about making a full belt or a slide?

It's not just the parts, if the screws are missing, well, I think we all know how difficult it is to find screws for sewing machines!!

Now that looks nice. I've never bothered with anything fancy on a cartridge holder simply because it's a purely utilitarian thing. I suppose, though, it could be good practice at stamping.

Lovely stuff. I've said it before, for some reason I'm not a fan of basketweave on leather, but I have to say that your rendition on that holster is very well executed!

Yep. On the one hand I would like to have a heavy duty machine (441-type) but the high cost, for what is purely a hobby, stops me from buying one (here in Oz the chances of picking up a used one is next to zero), on the other hand hand stitching is far superior to machine stitching so I'm happy to do that for holsters. Belts, of course, are a real pain to stitch by hand if doing decorative stitching. Time, by the way, is not an issue for me, being happily unemployed . If you don't have a machine then if that Juki works you may find it very useful for bags, straps, wallets etc. I often use a machine, without thread, to punch out the holes for hand stitching as it gives nice uniform spacing, then follow up with the awl.

There are a couple of posts on Leatherworker about this machine, it can handle up to #207 thread and 3/8" under the foot. If it's working then I would think $300 is a pretty good deal.You need to try it first, if it's not working unless you know something about these machines there's no way of knowing what you could be up for repair-wise. A couple of points, I'm assuming it has a clutch motor and if you've never used one you may find the machine difficult to control ( a servo motor is highly recommended for leatherwork) and holsters - what type of holster? How thick? I make single-action holsters, and when I fold them I have four layers and there's no way my machines can handle that (mine have 3/8" clearance). Also, handstitching allows you to use thicker thread and you need a heavy-duty machine to even come close to that..

Probably a good idea . There have been times when I've been determined to remove/fix something that I should have left alone and I end up creating more work for myself! There are two basic styles of reducers available (have a look at the sponsors' sites here) - the box type, where the box frame mounts in place of the motor, which then mounts to the bottom of the box, and the reducer shaft and pulleys are mounted in the box, or the single-mounting type which has a heavy duty casting that screws to the bottom of the table and the pulley stack "hangs" off the side. Go for the one with the biggest pulley.

That's why I do loop-through style, much easier!

Always nice when it turns out to be an easy fix.

Well, there's no keyway, but I'm not sure why it has what appears to be a sleeve between the shaft and the pulley, that's usually only done when the pulley is too big for the shaft. Have you tried removing the grub screw completely and twisting the pulley to see if it's screwed on? If you can't get the pulley off I wouldn't worry too much as from what you've said about using it if you buy one of the commercially available speed reducers (one with a BIG pulley and a small one) I'm sure that will solve your problem.

Most servos are made in China and it's highly likely that they will have metric shafts so you should check the diameter as tt said. Pulleys can be picked up on ebay pretty cheap, but most that I have seen use a keyway and a nut on the end of the shaft to retain them, just make sure that's what your shaft uses. I still don't understand why you can't get it to go slower, as the model you quote should be adjustable down to 0rpm according to the specs I saw.

It has given me something to strive for - but I see an awful lot of practice ahead!

Looks good! See, that wasn't so hard after all, was it? Seems like an awful lot of (small) rivets, though.