dikman

Nicely done - and it works!

Hi Loquai, it's always a difficult decision to make when it comes to buying a machine, mainly because when you're coming from handstitching there is no one machine to replace it. A manual machine, like the Outlaw, will be the closest because it can handle reasonably heavy thread on somewhat lighter materials. There are doubtless many who have used them successfully but also many who have had issues due to their inherent limitations. Having only one hand free is likely to be the major issue. As has been suggested a good used Consew (or equivalent) fitted with a servo could be a good way to get started without breaking the bank. If it works out you'll likely start looking at a second machine, something that will handle heavier leather/thread. Just warning you, it can be a slippery slope this sewing machine thing.

One of two things, as Gregg said it's an early design to enable the fitting of a foot lever for reverse or a previous owner fitted it for that precise reason. It shouldn't be hard to fabricate a shortened lever to replace it.

I've been binge watching Forged in Fire, and to quote Doug Marcaida "it weel cut!"

Those are all domestic sewing machines, and while they may work on some (thin) leathers they're not really ideal.

What he said. I'm sure you'll make the next one different, now that you've got this experience under your belt.

Sharpening knives edge up on a belt grinder is common practice but a head knife is not a normal knife shape! I should have done it edge down, as Brian did. I should have known better. Using a polishing wheel will tend to round off the edge, unlike using a regular strop, however it is quicker to get a sharp edge and when time is important it only takes seconds to touch up the edge. Zuludog, I had a look at J H Leather's site and she has some good stuff on there. I like that "half-head" knife as you don't have to keep watching where the other point is! I'll make one later, when I finish off all the other jobs I have.

These things are actually quite dangerous to sharpen on a belt grinder! One of mine caught at the point and dug into the aluminium guide wheel on the grinder. It took a small chunk out of the wheel!

Good one, should be a nice blade when finished - and it didn't cost too much! Off-setting the head and handle is an interesting idea. I've made a couple the same way and I've been thinking of making a 1/2 head knife. I don't need it but I like making things.

Nice.

Very nice looking rig. The finish and colouring is well done.

I have a drill press similar to yours, Brian (had it for about 40 years) but the "newer" ones I've seen don't look like they're as strongly built. I've recently been using my arbor press to crack Macadamia nuts (!) and I know the drill press couldn't do it. Nevertheless, it's a good idea for using on lighter studs and rivets.

Funny how that can happen. Nice job, looks good (so does the Ruger!).

I've said it before - damn, you do nice work! As for wrinkles, you worry too much. I doubt if anyone else would worry about such an insignificant amount.

Nice solutions. Using the sewing machine guide is neat and a good idea with the slot cutters, might have to pinch that one.

Very nicely done! The enclosed brass finger "loop" is classy.

What's to say except very nice. It goes well with the colours of the gun and grips.

Maybe you should sell chain mail blankets!

Nice for you, but fine-thread US screws are not that common here, unfortunately. I remember when I was working on one of my black powder guns I had to order in a specific tap from Track of the Wolf because it wasn't available here. I guess that's what I get for living in the "other" colonies.

Sometimes I am so dumb (something to do with getting old, maybe?), anyway I had cause to adjust the feet on my 4500 so got out the "manual" that came with it. Wasn't any help BUT the parts list is very comprehensive, listing all the screws used, and they're all what I would call American thread sizes, fine pitch. No metric, which still surprises me.

I'm really surprised at this, I know all about the older machines having oddball screw/thread sizes but I just assumed that when the Chinese copied the machines they would have used standard, probably metric, threads. Who'd have guessed......

Or you could contact Cowboy Bob and ask him. I recently had reason to check the size of the screws holding the bobbin winder plate on and was very surprised to find they're not metric. They're not Whitworth or BA, my best guess is 3/16" UNF.

Hmm, none of my servos make much noise. Is it the same whether it's run flat out or very slow?

The screw is obviously loctited in. Only thing I can think of is to drill a hole in the screw, apply localised heat to the screw using a small pinpoint flame then use a small easyout (or perhaps try gently tapping a small flat blade screwdriver into the hole you drilled?).

Hmm, was the sewing machine working ok before (I assume it had a different motor fitted)?