dikman

Looks good, I like the method of payment. Yum yum!

The Juki engineers manual is in this post, along with Uwe's excellent adjustment video. It's probably worth becoming familiar with the basic timing of the machine, although if it's forming stitches ok (other than fraying the thread) then it's probably still in time. First thing is to get rid of the burrs on the feed dog.

Your reasoning makes sense. I doubt if there was anything wrong with the machine or they wouldn't have allowed you to test it. Simply operator error, we all suffer from that at some point. If the machine suits what you need it for, and the price is right, then it's worth considering because you will have support close by, although as you become more familiar with it you would probably be able to resolve minor issues yourself.

Carrie, I just looked at the manual for your servo and it has more settings than most that I've seen. Most of them you probably won't use, but generally there is some interaction between things like the max speed that is set and the startup speed setting, it can be trial and error to find out what works best. The main thing is that if it's working for you that's all that matters. My machines have speed reducers, which also affects the speed settings used and I generally have the servos set for pretty low max speed because that is all I need. Yes, I still don't understand that statement, but I guess it doesn't matter - it's working and you're happily sewing away!

I'd just use a Dremel with a diamond or carbide bit to carefully smooth it, then wet and dry paper (wet) to take out any remaining scratches and finish off with a polishing wheel. You just want to make sure there aren't any rough edges to catch the thread. And check the timing, as Brian said. A slightly mis-shapen hole shouldn't make any difference operationally.

Yep, I can't count how many adjustments it took to get me back to my starting point!!!! I've gone through all the adjustments in the Juki manual. Now, bear in mind that straight out of the box it sewed, using different stitch lengths and up to 3/4" thick with no real problems. To get it into spec, however, I had to tweak the hook, needlebar height (2mm low), readjust the feet height and clearances and fix that slight reverse motion of the stitching cycle (the eccentric/cam that I couldn't find). I'm getting good at this.

Thanks for confirming it Bob (although I would call it an eccentric, not a cam). I'd noticed before that the leather was actually moving slightly in reverse at the end of each stitch cycle and a quick play showed this is the adjuster, now I just need to get the setting right - my first effort threw it way out of whack!

Sorry about this but it seems I keep having questions. I decided to adjust it according to Uwe's excellent video and other than the hook needing a minor adjustment it looked fine and sews ok. I decided to go through the Juki 441Engineers manual and on page 42 it refers to top feed timing. It says the needle tip should align with the top of the feed dog when the presser foot and needle come down. My needle tip is still a few mm above the feed dog when the presser foot is resting on it, so obviously needs adjusting and it refers to the top feed cam but doesn't say where it is (the parts list isn't helpful here). Where is the adjustment for this? Edit: I think I've found it, the parts list refers to a "driving cam" which appears to be the part the Engineers manual calls a "top feed cam".

Mine doesn't have an anti-backlash spring so I don't know how high it should sit but I thought it looked pretty high, which means when it's pushed in it's likely to have quite a bit of tension against the bobbin?

Distressing a holster is a bit like weathering model planes and tanks, the trick is to look at the parts that will get worn, like edges and raised parts, whereas areas that are "protected" by being below the surface level will not show wear, but may fade a bit or get darker from built up grime.

Good catch, Brian, I missed that when I looked. There's been a post or two about this before, it shouldn't go over the little post

Looks good, didn't take you long to find out that the machine works well.

Damn, Josh.............the problem with that is it's too beautiful to use!

I'll add my voice to the chorus to keep them, at least until you know what you want to do in this hobby. It will probably be easy enough to dispose of them but a lot harder to find them if later you decide that you should have kept them.

Not really, it's the nature of the printing process. The surface can be sanded smooth and using wet and dry paper (wet) it will come out very smooth. However, if you sand too heavily you can go through layers and cause delaminating, particularly on edges. I've made one or two models and have used a combination of sanding and car body filler/surface filler prior to painting. It works well but is a lot of effort.

Or if you like tinkering you could build a stand-alone bobbin winder.

Looks good, Michiel. For the type of sewing a lot of us probably do a big table isn't necessary, all they do is provide extra space to put junk on!

My Pfaff 335 was on a "standard" table and I chopped the ends off so it is only as wide as the frame legs (like your photo). I replaced the 335 head with my new CB4500 and I figure it should be quite adequate for my needs.

If you want to wind a bobbin without sewing just unthread the needle, otherwise you will have one almighty mess around the bobbin (under the feet)! I just wound 3 bobbins and pulled the bobbin out of the machine as well.

Or......you could sew forward 3 stitches, lift the feet/needle, pull the material back to the starting stitch and sew forward again. If your stitch length isn't too long then it shouldn't look obvious. I reckon for $130 inc. table you've done well, they're a good solid machine.

I agree with Chuck, cap and ball revolvers can be very accurate, the limiting factor usually being the user. Hickok used .36 cal Colt Navy pistols and was considered deadly with them.

Roger, no need to be frightened of the machine - now, if you had a clutch motor then I could understand you being frightened!! Scary things to a novice. Once you get over the initial trepidation you'll be fine.

Good job. The holes in the back of my machine are M6x1 which is nice. Meanwhile, my unit left China on 30/12 and according to the tracking is still in the air 5 days later!

Beautiful work, Uwe!

Holsters in the Old West were intended primarily as a means to carry a revolver and give it some protection from the elements. That is why you'll see the revolvers "buried" in the holster, often with not much more than the handle protruding. Towards the end of the 19th. century they seemed to change slightly, becoming a bit more open. The "Hollywood fast draw gunfights" didn't seem to happen much in real life back then.