dikman

I'd try what fred suggested, fine wet and dry used wet which should give a smooth finish. You could try applying car body filler to the surface first if you want it absolutely smooth when you sand it. Filing and using coarse papers can often leave these surfaces furry at the edges.

What about foam earplugs? They can scrunch down pretty small, or be cut to fit.

The big problem with using cordless drill motors (for anything) is finding a suitable power supply as they generally draw at least a couple of amps (often more).

When I repainted one of mine I just used screwed up tissue paper pushed into the holes.

Well, I'm with catskin. Any machine can do what is drawn, but I'm having trouble picturing how anything can turn what is drawn into what you're describing. (But I'll be the first to admit that my knowledge of some of the esoteric capabilities of sewing machine attachments is sadly lacking).

That last post almost needs to be a sticky in itself, as it is a nice summary of the functions of the most commonly used machines.

No worries. I just asked the butcher for the "offcuts" from lamb/mutton that were headed for the scrap bin.

I made a batch several years ago (to use with my muzzleloaders) using a slow cooker, took several hours to rend down. I just store it in a shed where it goes through extreme temperature changes and it's still good.

Turning rancid is a real problem with a lot of animal/vegetable products, which is why beeswax/neatsfoot oil/lanolin are used in a lot of "recipes". One other possibility is tallow (rendered animal fat, preferably suet), this doesn't go rancid and stores well. I mix it with beeswax to help soften it.

An update to my long-term-soaking-in-a-bin trial. Didn't work! Left them to soak for several months over Winter but ended up with a browny-green solution that stunk!! So I threw it all out. Started again this year, half-filled a pot with green nuts (off the ground) cut into halves, filled with boiling water then brought back to the boil and simmered for an hour or so. Looks good and it's now out in the sun reducing down. I thought I'd try a cheaper way (i.e. not using gas to boil it), half-filled the pot again with chopped up green nuts and filled with cold water, then covered with a piece of glass and left out in the sun. We're having near 40*C days at the moment and at the end of the first day the pot was almost too hot to touch!! The heat was bringing out the dye, so I'll repeat this whenever we have a sunny day, looks like a cheap way to make the dye.

Brian, mate, you've definitely got some hidden geeky nerd in you!

" As it turns out he thought the motor was the sewing machine ". I hope you feel suitably guilty about knocking him down. You did very well indeed!

I've got slightly conflicting information for you. My 51W59 manual says system 128x4 but a comprehensive list of machines/needles I have says 128x6 (the listing says the 51W53 - 59 use the same needles). Mine was re-adjusted to use 135x5, which are pretty common.

VYO, that is simple but surprisingly effective.

I handstitch my holsters as none of my machines are capable of doing them. Handstitching is actually the best way to sew holsters, imo, but it does take a while (no real problem when it's only a hobby). Doing a gunbelt, however - edges and decorative stitching - is an exercise in tediousness! If you can get a good used upholstery-class walking foot it might be a good way to get started without breaking the bank. In the meantime keep reading the sticky's in this section, there's a lot of info in there to assimilate.

$1!!!! I'll give you $2 and you've made a 100% profit!

I wish I had a $1 for everyone who asks which machine they should get to make belts, wallets, bags etc - oh, and holsters too! I could probably have bought a CB3200 with the money.

I'm with DFH. Over time and use that coating in the pulley grooves will wear off anyway.

A 550w motor should be plenty, but it's always a good idea to go with the biggest you can afford. Try it without a reducer first, it may be fine for your needs, if not add/make a reducer (don't forget to fit the smallest pulley you can to the motor, every little bit helps).

No question whatsoever - servo motor and fit a small 2" pulley to it. You'll probably find that you'll need to fit a speed reducer too as has been mentioned. I recently had to get rid of two clutch motors I didn't need and almost had to give them away, I got Au$10 each and figure I was lucky getting that!

Like they said. Did you stitch after sanding the edges? That stitching is way too close to the edge, so you've got very little support under the leather.

aroh99, he is turning it without the belt so it should not be too hard to operate, nor should anything be rubbing inside when doing it. Hopefully, based on what Alexander has said, it isn't damaged and is simply out of adjustment. The OP either needs to work through the adjustments in the manual or take it to a sewing machine mechanic.

I had a similar problem once, the linkages for the rear foot/centre foot were out of adjustment and the linkage was rubbing on the inside of the housing where it came through from the back. Just one possibility. The pressure on the knee lifter could be too much spring pressure from an overtightened tension screw on the rear spring. Do you have a manual with it? You need to study it to understand the adjustments on it. It is a concern though that the machine punched through the foam packing and into the wood.

The 201K is considered by many to be one of the best, and toughest, machines made by Singer - for its class, that is. I'm with Matt, for what you want to do an upholstery class walking foot would be the best bet.

Thanks Badem, as Tom said it has a clutch, but at 1/3 hp the motor isn't very powerful. Still looks like it needs a lot of work on it. I have seen those motors before, but blowed if I can remember where. I don't think they're very powerful (could be wrong). It's got a very small pulley on it!