particle

I assume you're talking about the area in green? If so, yes, the stitch line could be tightened up maybe 1/8" on either side. I had another holster maker (who's been at this game a lot longer than myself) tell me my holster would be way too tight because I didn't allow any extra room for a sight channel.

Great looking holsters Josh - very clean work! Mind if I asked how you achieved the pink coloring?

I use a 50/50 mix of Resolene and water.

Thanks y'all. My plan moving forward is to make all new videos freely available on YouTube instead of behind a subscription wall on my site. Took a while to convince my wife, but she's finally on board.

For those of you that are visual learners, like myself, I posted a video demonstrating my process of creating a pancake style holster, from initial pattern creation to final finish. I would like to emphasize that this is a fast-paced demonstration of my process, not a full-length teaching video. If you have questions about anything I'm doing, please feel free to ask here, or in the comment section of the video, or via the contact form on my website. I'm always happy to help however I can.

I made one of those a while back. You'll want to use contact cement. Just apply it to the dowel, or whatever you're using as the shaft for the dremel, and apply it to the canvas, then let them each become tacky before sticking together. In my experience when using this on my drill press, I needed to secure the other end as well. Perhaps a dremel will do a better job of combating centrifugal force to keep the loose end from flapping around, but my drill press didn't. The loose end flaps outward just enough to slap against your skin, and that gets old pretty quick! And it makes the canvas fray pretty fast too.

Concealed Carry Weapon belt. Basically built much more sturdy than a traditional 'dress' belt so it can support the added weight of a firearm, mag pouch, etc.

I think I sent you an email a couple of weeks ago. Did you get it?

I have a pattern for the Kahr P9 (same size as the CW9). Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send it your way.

Does that machine have reverse? If not, you might find it difficult to lock your stitches with bulky items that are hard to turn 180 degrees to sew the opposite direction.

You can use them in a house, but you need adequate ventilation. Depending on your size constraints, you can do something as simple as buying a portable box fan and strapping an appropriately sized air filter to the intake side of the fan. This will capture the majority of the airborne floating dye overspray. Even better, mount the fan to some kind of box, and spray inside the box. This will create a tunnel and vacuum effect. All this still leaves the hazardous fumes floating in the air. If you put the contraption in front of a window, that will help push the fumes outside. I don't remember who did it, but I've seen one person mount an exhaust fan directly over their workbench and ran the exhaust tubing out of the house. This will help remove fumes from adhesives and such as well. When airbrushing, you can hang sheets of foamcore around the workbench (to create the enclosure / vacuum effect) to contain and remove overspray. Personally, I use a dedicated cabinet. It has two box fans mounted to the back wall of the cabinet, and each fan has its own filter. I can hang a 1x12 from the ceiling and clip a belt blank to it so I can dye long pieces. The air compressor sits at the bottom of the cabinet, and I have a counter-height shelf to hold my dye bottles, etc. while I'm spraying. I have a hinged piece of plywood on the top that flips over and rests on the top edge of the cabinet doors, which essentially deepens the cabinet and creates a semi-enclosure to help contain the overspray. My setup may not be ideal for most people, but I needed something that would specifically work with belts so my cabinet is quite large (tall).

Looks nice Alex! I like how you colored the tooling.

Great job Martin - very nice!

Great looking holster Josh! Love the colors and the flow of the design! I also like to curl the muzzle inward. I think it makes the opening a little more resistant to collapsing, but I try to keep the opening large enough to get an old tooth brush in there to help clean out the holster over time.

I've had two or three holsters over the years that I forgot to oil prior to sealing. I wouldn't normally worry about it, but I needed the leather to darken up a bit to match the rest of the set. If you brush on the neetsfoot oil, it will eventually penetrate through the acrylic sealer (usually overnight). I usually go back and apply another coat of sealer once the oil is completely soaked in. You should have no problem getting acrylic sealer to adhere to the leather if you oil it first. I oil everything I make 12-24 (usually 24) hours prior to sealing, and I have never had a problem with the bond.

Very nice! Love the colors!

Have you tried a different browser?

Seems pretty fair to me (remember, price includes shipping). Comparing price per SF for an entire hide vs smaller pieces isn't exactly a fair comparison. http://springfieldleather.com/Piece-Bridle-English-Tan-1x1

Great looking holster!

In case you're interested, I'm attaching some reference photos of holsters I've created from that pattern.

As long as you haven't sealed it, you can always dampen it again.

This is a good video showing how one maker forms his. How long are you soaking the leather? I typically soak mine for 7-10 seconds. If you soak it too long, the leather won't hold any definition. If you don't soak it long enough, it'll be difficult to form and will burnish too easily. I use a vacuum press for initial molding, then follow up with a bone folder and a couple other very basic tools.

If you haven't already, you should be able to file a claim against him, which will put a hold on the $80 in his account (if he has a positive balance in his PayPal account). If he doesn't respond to the dispute, you should receive a refund after a certain amount of time.

Stu - I use a system like you're talking about. Cheap vacuum pump, then a veneering bag and pump hardware kit for the hose fittings, etc.