fredk

We have a specific section on Leather sewing machines and sewing leather. Either re-post your queries there or get a Moderator to move it there https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/50-leather-sewing-machines/

If that doesn't turn out I bought a set of these, I use them with my press. 7 sizes from 20mm to 50mm, going in 5mm steps, includes a 40mm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7Pcs-DIY-Leather-Punchers-Craft-Cutter-Mold-Die-Round-Hole-Punching-Tools-Kit/353080017082

I've no experience of Edge Kote. Edge paint is as thick as non-drip paint. You put it on with a spatula or one of these roller type jobbies I've never had a problem of it peeling. Perhaps its the way I put it on? I do only really use it on pre-dyed chrome tan. I get a colour to match. eg I have a load of lavender coloured leather so I got some edge paint to match as neither the raw edge no black looks good on it

This is true. You and I would have a meter and know how to use it but I'm reckoning the OP doesn't have one and gave the basic search instructions

Yes. For that reason I only use for edging the same colour as the front & back You can get 'edge paint' which is thick and doesn't bleed down off the edge

Obviously you have a power supply lead grounding somewhere. Un-plug the machine from the power supply socket. Then start by taking the plug apart and going over the power lead to see if there is a bare wire or a break in the power lead. Go over it carefully, inch by inch, look closely, bending the power lead back and forth, work along it. If you see nothing there, check the switch unit in the machine for a bare or broken broken power lead, then check from the switch to the motor. Remember; always keep the machine un-plugged from the mains power supply whilst checking the power leads

Try mixing up a strong solution of pure lemon juice and water and soaking the piece in it for a few days then hang up in an airy place to dry.

a. We are all constantly learning b. Its good to aim for perfection but never worry, none of us has ever achieved that (well, I do all the time, ) We just have to accept that our efforts will fall short but at least we tried! c. By pushing the envelope we learn new things and new ways and discover what we can or cannot do. Its better to try and fail than to sit back and think 'I can't do that' d. It won't be long till you try again. Its like that old silly saying about falling off a bicycle/horse, get right back on it and try again, and again. . . .

Photos placed directly on here are good I never go to strange, unknown links, especially video ones

Which camouflage stamps and which backgrounder have you? Which are you going to use? The numbers on the handles would do for info. Is your plan to use the camo along the border above and below the 'makers' stamp area? I'm just trying to get a picture (in my head) of your design.

Mycelium is the fibrous part of certain fungi. It sounds like this stuff makes a sort of suede felt in composition

Pictures help

Well. I'd treat it like a work of art and not a bit of leather. What I would do, 1. get a piece of marine grade plywood for a main back piece. 2. cover the plywood in very thin acrylic sheet, such as a perspex, about 1mm thick 3. use a hard wood such as oak, walnut, teak or redwood, to frame the plywood. But never use any soft wood. The frame to cover the edges of the ply, plus the depth of the leather plus about another 3/4 inch, plus 1 inch off the back of the ply 4. whilst making 3, drill 1/2 inch holes along the top and bottom edges of the ply/perspex combination, depending on length of the leather piece and ply backing, one hole about every 6 inches, do not have holes along bottom in a direct line with the top ones, stagger their spacing. Rebate the front edge of the frame about 1/4 inch deep 5. use brass tacks to tack the leather to the ply/perspex combo. 6. cover the front with a sheet of clear acrylic perspex type, set into the previously made rebate in the frame This is basically museum type casing for preservation of artefacts

The only stuff I've had success with is lacquer thinners, aka cellulose thinners I usually use a ball point pen to mark leather, but those marks are either cut away, skived away or they mark gouge lines - see the pattern The very worst to use is an indelible marker, aka a Sharpie. Even when you remove the ink the mark comes back as a ghost through you dye and finish

I got some from Le Prevo and it seemed ok. It was only used on a few odd projects but I had no problems with it. I got and used silver and gold. Scroll down just about half-way on this page; http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm

And why would you not be proud of your first sheath, made all by yourself? Now, this is where ye need to think ahead - where are you going to put that 'makers' stamping? On the HLS or on the sheath back? cos the front is all nicely tooled. On the HLS or sheath back, its best to do the stamping afore ye sew it all up closed

I think you are finding, as many of us have found out, 1. making an item from scratch is like a 3 dimensional jigsaw without either instructions or the box picture to guide us 2. its worse than chess, you need to think about things many stages ahead and plan on them, doing them in sequence when you least expect to have to do them 3. for every 'how do I?' question you'll get dozens and dozens of answers, and all can be perfectly correct

I'd say they are pretty much the same on all my belts. I do sometimes make the billet end a couple of inches longer for fat guys. Their weight, thus their waist size, can vary a bit more than thin guys, so an extra few inches to let that belt out a bit more also. I mainly use buckles which have a keeper made into them, so on the buckle end I don't need to fuss about a strap keeper eg, this sort of buckle http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/14724-40.htm

How far have you got with this: This suggestion needs doing before the front is sewn on. 1. cut a piece for your hanging loop strap (here after, hls ), make it the width you want and about 7 or 8 inches long* 2. cut one or two 'spacers' the width of your hls and about 1/2 inch high 3. sew one end of your hls thru the spacers to the back of the sheath, with the rest of the hls going upwards 4. bring your hls up, around and down past the part you sewed and sew that end to the sheath, about 1/2 below where the spacers end is sewn. 5. you now have a sheath standing-off from the hls * hls = say 1 inch from sewing point to top of sheath, up for about 2 inches, curve over 1/2 inch, then down 2 inches, plus 1.5 inches past the first sewn point = 8 inches

Most excellent 'Pre-distressed' - some people just like that look At lower school no-one wanted to be seen wearing new denim jeans,

On the buckle end I just taper long enough to take the smaller buckle and a fold over to main wider part, so thats about 2.5 to 3 inches. On the billet end I narrow about 6 inches or maybe 8 inches max and I have a steep curve up to the wider section

Put in the spacers. Angle the tops a bit to guide the blade into the sheath On this copy of a 16th century sheath the knife has a 1 inch wide blade. I cut spacers to the main shape and to narrow the blade area down to 1 inch wide. In this case the spacers are also the welts, but the same idea holds

did you remember to take photos to share with us?

I've got the pattern from 'DieselpunkRO' This one : https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/637482329/plague-doctor-mask-pattern-diy-pattern?ref=related-1&pro=1 He does a number of different styles. His instructions are to sew from the head towards to the point of the beak along the bottom join then from the tip to the eyes along the top join. He also does some very good instructional videos I've the pattern pieces cut out, I really must translate them onto leather