fredk

grande, loverly-jubbly and all that, but I'm still getting 'Not Secure' in the address bar. Will this change?

The secretary of the historical presentation group I was in had the list. An official Gov list. We had the complete list but only required the part on bladed weapons. It said afair eg. a dirk; as part of the traditional Scots dress, / single edged blade of less than 4 inches length, / chef's knives; in conjunction with work, to and from place of work / that sort of thing. It ran to several pages. Cosh, baton, night-sticks and other were in the blunt instrument section. Even the PSNI sometimes asked us for a copy of the list. Individuals who knew us had recourse to use our info as before; caveat, GB and N.I. laws can differ

Maybe if we looked under the regular UK name; a cosh There is a reverse to this. There is a list of what 'weapons' are legal to carry, if its not on the list then its illegal

A little tale. I had a friend a long time ago who was a professional photographer in London. He still is. He used to carry small canvas money bags filled with pebbles to hang on his tripod as weights. More than once he used one of those bags to whack a mugger over the head. Met arrested my friend for using a 'sap'. First time we'd heard that word. Case was dropped though. That was way back when you couldn't use any force to defend yourself. I was once on the verge of being arrested for using a 'sap'. I used a money bag full of £1 coins to whack an armed robber about the body and head. I laid into him rightly. Thats when I found out owning a sap is illegal in N.I.

Will there be extra expenses incurred? ie, a bit of a donation needed?

Caveat: GB and N.I. laws can be different. Its illegal to own a sap in N.I. But somebody needs to know about it first

I use a single-tooth chisel to make one hole on the apex of the corner. I then work from the corners to the centre of the side or bottom, making a row of holes alternately, so that the last few holes are at about the centre of the side At the moment I cannot see your picture. It might have somat to do with the present site problems

I wasn't getting it, but today I am Windows 10 & Chrome

I'll think about that and maybe give an answer in a couple days time. I'm off very shortly and won't be back until late Saturday evening

yes yes

If I may put some answers 1. use the wool side 2. A piece about the size of the palm of your hand or slightly smaller for most work. A piece about two fingers width for doing small areas and edges. Gather it up into a ball with the flesh side inside. Gather it up tight. 3. You can re-use it with the same colour within 24 hours or less. I find that when the dye fully dries the wool goes hard and is of no further use ~ I've never tried to wash the dye out ~ I just treat the wool pad as disposable 4. the only 'prep' I've done is to run my fingers through the wool to get off any loose hairs and debris. The wool should be about 1/2 inch long. Most comes this length anyways

Sorry, I must qualify that. I like 0.6 mm when its a single thread doing a running stitch but 1.2 mm approx if its a double thread in a saddle stitch If its a normal round thread, 0.6 mm to 0.8 mm hole for a single thread. The thread will squeeze down a bit and the leather will expand a wee bit so the thread will fill the hole. Approx 1.5 to 2 x for double thread in a saddle stitch It will take more of a pull to take the thread through the smaller hole but if its kept well waxed it'll slip through well enough

afaia ALL STITCHING chisels are diamond and only lacing chisels are available in diamond or parallel tooth. The reason most sellers don't say the stitching chisel is diamond tooth is because they all are and its a given PS. We have given you several options. You have now become a Troll. From here on I'm adding you to my ignore list as I do not feed trolls

0.5 to 0.8 mm, depending on your thread. I use flat profile thread and its best in 0.5 / 0.6 mm holes

As far as I am aware, Yes it can be. I had some deer skins, some were as soft and limp as bit of tissue paper, I also had some which was thinner than the soft skins but was very much stiffer, almost like thin cardboard or heavy paper. In my case the thin stiff was too thin for wallets so was used to cover some shields and as a liner in shoulder bags.

a. question - what size of letter do you want? b. questions - upper case only, lower case only or both? There are not really a lot of sets made out there. Only other maker I know of is 'IVAN' and what they make/made is very limited as well. You need to search through the likes of Ebay, WORLD-WIDE to find sets, especially long discontinued ones. And be prepared to pay over the odds for a set you really like*. Also search out independent leather tool shops, Tandy type re-sellers. They may have an old set gathering dust on a back shelf** * I paid 2.5 times what I really wanted to pay for a rare set of letters which I decided suited a current project ** I found a set of lowercase letters to match an uppercase set I had in a re-seller shop in a remote corner of the US, after searching world-wide for months for the lowercase set.

Kinda, sort-of, yes. I used to mix some lavender oil into my beeswax/carnauba/nfo soft mix. A lady gardener used to order it from me. She used some of the regular mix on her leather goods and found that mix helped her dried chapped hands so she asked if I could mix some with essential oils in it to make it smell nice. Thus I added essential lavender oil into it and not only she bought it but I used to sell it in 50ml tins, mainly to other gardeners but other 'house wife' types and car mechanics. I checked with a university chemistry professor friend of mine about the mix and he checked and said that as they were all natural products which we use anyway all was fine. Local Trading Standards got a tin to test and never came back to me to tell me to stop.

Made in the UK I believe https://www.blackmountainsleather.com/collections/tools/products/leathercraft-pricking-iron-set-2-8-prong?variant=12551572717673

It looks like an upholster's stretching pliers. For pulling and stretching canvas across a chair seat frame before nailing the canvas to the wood frame

My son banned me from wearing mine out in public. He threatened me with dire consequences

You can't rub anything on it or you'll flatten the knap. On a hat I have which has an almost suede finish I use a spray-on water proofer eg: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-Spray-Tents-Fabric-Shoes-Clothing-Boots-Camping-Fishing-Outdoor-300ml/283236893300?hash=item41f23c0274:g:Pl8AAOSwJ6Nb2Qkt and: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nikwax-Fabric-Leather-Proof-Spray-Waterproof-Maintains-Breathability-125ml/232214169421?hash=item36110b074d:g:fuYAAOSwNnRYhPXE Waterproofs without altering the colour or the surface. The colour darkens a bit just after spraying but it returns to normal as the water-proofer is absorbed and it dries. Depending on your weather this might need reapplying at intervals. I find that in N.I.'s wet weather it needs doing once every 4 to 6 weeks.

Two opposite things there. An oxymoron Good, yes inexpensive, no A good tool like this will last your lifetime of leather work Check these out; https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/67-7252/diamond-stitching-chisel-set/pr_55115 Others on here can advise on the company and the tools

Left end, looks like a selection of modelling stylus, with various ends Right end, another modelling stylus, useful for working with lace next to that I can make out two flat lacing needles. The other things might be round lacing needles - have they a hollow end middle item is as Tugadude says

au contraire, I like single for the apex of corners. Corners first, then work from centre of sides towards corners, adjusting if necessary the last stitch to that corner one. Adjusted stitches are less noticeable at the corners But in this OPs case I think he can skip the 1 and go for a 2 and a 4

How about 'Mink Oil' cream? or just good 'ole beeswax/nfo mix?