Dwight

Treesner, . . . go to your local Joann Fabric store, . . . get this thread, . . . https://www.joann.com/coats-clark-outdoor-200yd-thread/zprd_11744323a.html#q=Coats &start=1 Saddle stitch it at about 6 stitches per inch, . . . and the nylon will rip to the devil and back before you tear out these stitches, . . . unless you are packing anvils or some such. I gave up regular thread years ago and use this exclusively for stuff I sew on my sewing machine (regular type), . . . only problem is if I have to take the seam out, . . . it has to be cut, razor cut, all the way. May God bless, Dwight

Having had one, . . . bad . . . experience with those things, . . . I would not touch them with a 10 foot pole. The person using them MUST BE FAMILIAR WITH and MUST PRACTICE with them or they will get hurt. My one time going up a short pole to change a yard light sensor, . . . they cut out on me on the way down, . . . 30 years later I still have the scar on my face. If he wants to do that kind of work, . . . it's important that he has the proper equipment, . . . that looks old and maybe worn, . . . certainly not trustworthy for life and limb. May God bless, Dwight

If he asked me to do it, . . . I would tell him I'm cutting his belt dead center between the hole he uses most, . . . and the buckle end. I would then add a piece of vegetable tanned leather with his last name on it, . . . with the cut ends very nicely laced together, . . . or a piece of fake caiman, . . . again the cut ends nicely laced together. That way the front of his belt where most people will notice it, . . . will look like it is the original, . . . and anyone seeing the rear, . . . would have to guess that the belt was originally designed like that. May God bless, Dwight

Welcome jujulolo, . . . this is a fun place to be most of the time. My ancestors immigrated here from western France a couple hundred years ago, . . . May God bless, Dwight

Can we see the rest of the holster, . . . might make it easier to understand. May God bless, Dwight

I make key fobs like this one, . . . dampen the leather, . . . 1/2 ton arbor press, . . . using a little brass stamp from Hong Kong, . . . Works like a champ. The actual impression is about 7/8 inch tall and about 2 inches long. Trying to stamp that with a hammer, mallet, or maul is a lesson in futility. I lay a 1/4 inch plate steel piece above it, . . . press it down and hold it for about 10 seconds, . . . May God bless, Dwight

Because this is the original question: "After you punch the last hole in a adult belt how long do leave the end of the belt. Other words what is the length from the last hole to the end of the belt. Is there a normal distance? " And the answer is 4 1/2 inches. Simple, . . . May God bless, Dwight

You and I use basically the same process, . . . except I have a "belt end template" that I place on the belt blank, . . . I first measure up from the buckle and put a mark at say 38 inches for a 38 inch belt. I then position my template so the center hole is over that 38 inch mark . . . and proceed to mark off my 7 holes with 1 inch spacing, . . . and my 4 1/2 inch tongue (measured from the hole closest to the tongue end) where I razor cut the end of the belt blank. I then finish shaping the end of the belt on my sander. From the end of the belt, . . . to my center hole, . . . will always be 7 1/2 inches, . . . +/-, . . . and I do not have customers complaining. Fact is, . . . most of my customers come back within a couple years and ask for another one, . . . a different color. I've got one fellow out there that I believe has 5 , . . . maybe 6 of my belts. Using that ridiculous idea of 5 inches from the center holle, . . . would give me a tongue of 2 1/2 inches, . . . it would not even make the first belt loop, . . . would stick out and be some kind of ugly. May God bless, Dwight

Take my word for it, . . . you DO WANT the flat side against the body. Much more comfortable. The flat side against the trousers serves no purpose whatsoever, . . . and puts that shootin' iron a rubbing hard against your body, . . . being pulled in tight by the belt. AND, yes, . . . this holster can be made left handed, . . . and with a reverse cant, . . . but there is no place on the human anatomy that it is comfortable, . . . unless the owner is wearing at least a 1 inch layer of lard around the waist. May God bless, Dwight

Todd, . . . what you are asking cannot be made. True pancake holsters have to be worn OWB just like shoes go on the outside of socks. The slots won't work with the belt unless you cut holes into the belt area of the pants. NOW, . . . I do personally make a product that is indeed flat backed, . . . resembles a pancake, . . . and I have made it for a backward canted appendix carry (the owner was somewhat handicapped, . . . this was a one of a kind so to speak) and it could be used for a cross draw holster. I will tell you though from personal experience of trying to perfect one, . . . IWB cross draw holsters are very uncomfortable. In order to create that holster, . . . you could use a pancake, . . . flat backed, . . . but you would have to put straps of some kind to go up over the britches, . . . then come down and loop around the belt, . . . or use mechanical clips to reach over and clamp to the belt. Here is a picture of the one I make, . . . obviously you can see why I call it a Cactus holster. This holster virtually has no cant, . . . as the owner wanted. May God bless, Dwight

Actually, . . . that is very much wrong, . . . you measure from the last punched hole, . . . Hardrada uses 2.5 to 3 inches, . . . I use 4.5 inches. If you measure from the middle hole on mine, . . . with only 5 holes, . . . using 3/4 inch spacing, . . . the tongue would be over 6 inches from the last hole. Measure from the last hole, . . . for the tongue, . . . but for the perfect length of the belt, . . . then wizard is perfectly correct, . . . always measure to the middle hole. May God bless, Dwight

Probably a lot of us know that eggs have yokes . . . comedians tell yokes, . . . but who knew airplanes had yokes??? Seriously, . . . show a picture of what you want to cover, . . . and some idea of what you want to finish up with, . . . someone on here can probably help you out. May God bless, Dwight

Actually I got both, . . . have no idea what is going on in the background, . . . Try it again with your mailing address.......... It'll be later today or first thing tomorrow, . . . gonna be up and leaving here in a very few minutes. May God bless, Dwight

Would something like this be OK? If so send me your mailing address in a PM, . . . it is really too complicated to do on here and get it right. I'll cut you out a full size pattern and mail it to you. May God bless, Dwight

Make a square cup that fits around your press's square shaft, . . . make it out of 3/4 or 1 inch steel, . . . put a 1/4 inch floor plate on it, . . . hold it on the shaft with a set screw you turn with your fingers Attach your brass stamps thru a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 inch steel so they are screwed in place and cannot move on the plate. Set a rail in the rear that bumps the stamps, . . . it will always be centered then. I use brass stamps on some of my stuff, . . . but they are small enough that I can use them under my ram, . . . yours look too big. To be successful, . . . you need that pressure to be the same all over the area being stamped, . . . OH, . . . and cut a piece of 1 inch pvc pipe about 36 inches long. When you are applying pressure on your ram, . . . that piece of PVC used as a cheater over the regular handle makes life a lot easier, . . . believe me I do enough of it that I learned that lesson all too well. My PVC handle sits just outside my shop door, . . . easily accessible and readily handy. May God bless, Dwight

Another way to make it more permanent is to stamp it in dampened leather. Veg tan works best of course, . . . but others in varying degrees also respond. For that sheath if I wanted that particular design, . . . I would probably take a piece of thin, . . . polished and rounded aluminum, . . . that would go across the whole piece of leather so there are no beginning and ending marks in the stamping, . . . get the leather wet, . . . lay it on my marble slab, . . . and stamp away. It compresses the leather much better than a creaser in my opinion. AND, . . of course, . . . that has to be done before making the blank piece of leather into a sheath, . . . so you can lay it down flat and stamp it. May God bless, Dwight

If you don't get a good answer, . . . one of my tried and true answer finders on stuff like this is model building. Build a 12 inch long scale model of it, . . . with true scaled thickness and widths, . . . then measure the pieces, . . . multiply it by the scale, . . . and you'll have it. May God bless, Dwight

You're fine, Memphis, . . . I never could figure out how those copper rivets came out so really pretty on some stuff, . . . An old saddlemaker showed me 1st the tool, . . . then 2nd how to use the tool. I would have been up the proverbial creek if he had not taken the time to show me how to do it. Glad you got the goods this time, . . . happy riveting. May God bless, Dwight

My apologies to you then, my friend, . . . I have no idea then what is happening, . . . would probably just have to be there, . . . is there any saddle makers or other leather workers in your area? I would search one of them out, . . . take the tool and the rivets with you, . . . or maybe even take them to a Tandy story. My Tandy store has a manager who KNOWS leather and how to do the stuff with it, . . . he is my big resource. Best wishes, may God bless, Dwight

Easy fix though, . . . center punch a couple places near the edge of the hole, . . . on opposite sides, . . . should grip then. Course, . . . better idea is toss the bad ones and only use good ones, . . . even if it means tossing the whole package. Few things are worse than trying to use a "raw material" that was not properly made, . . . and won't allow you to do the job you intended to do with it. Grrrr May God bless, Dwight

Best I can figure, . . . you are not doing it right. Stick the copper rivet thru the leather, . . . put on the washer, . . . slip the tool over the end of the rivet and smack it with a mallet, driving the washer all the way down onto the leather, hit it again for good measure, . . . cut the copper off about an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch above the washer, . . . peen with a ball peen just a minor bit . . . then use the little rounded out place in the bottom of your tool to make the rivet "purty". I always do this on a piece of 1/4 inch steel laying on my work bench, . . . and often as not on top of my marble slab. You cannot peen and set the rivet most of the time on a soft table top. May God bless, Dwight

It would really help if we saw the "multitool" you are trying to protect. My first thought was the pair of pliers that has 10 things built into each handle, . . . but that does not seem to be the case here. May God bless, Dwight

Let me predict that brown or black, . . . even green, . . . that style holster is very comfortable, . . . and in the words of many a suit salesman "you gonna like the way you look" May God bless, Dwight

As Rockoboy said, . . . your teacher is the Ranger belt. I first find out what kind of buckle will be worn on that belt, . . . then I work the two billets so that they will be back equal distance from the center of the buckle when the buckle is in the center hole of the belt. That makes the belt look right on the wearer in my opinion. It should hold true for your design as well. May God bless, Dwight

If it is costume, . . . spray paint will work AOK, . . . does not handle a lot of flexing, . . . but can be very convincing in appearance, . . . Tandy stores also carry paint you can apply with a brush. May God bless, Dwight