Dwight

This will sound silly, . . . but I finally whipped that exact problem with a plastic peanut butter jar. Actually does not "fully, . . . 100%" end the problem, . . . but sure makes it a whole lot less of a problem. AND, . . . I only use Weldwood brand, . . . which can be lightly diluted with Acetone (I believe it is part of the original formula). Anyway, . . . it works. May God bless, Dwight

For just a pair of yokes, . . . hand stitching or lacing shouldn't be all that long or hard. Use contact cement first, . . . buckstitch em, . . . they will be beautiful, and will hold up till all the cows come home. May God bless, Dwight

I would leave the buckle as is, . . . and take off the necessary from the other end. The "new" end will not look exactly as the other one did, . . . but carefully cutting in the circle ending in the two dots between the eyes, . . . proper beveling and burnishing and very few folks would ever look twice at it. May God bless, Dwight

TxLeather2, . . . thank you for the suggestion. I'm going to play around with some beads doing an insert like your first one. May God bless, Dwight

Duty belts for policemen who carry all sorts of junk on their belts are seldom over 1/4 inch thick, . . . which is two 8 oz pieces glued together, . . . flesh side to flesh side. Don't use "glue", . . . use Weldwood contact cement, . . . or a very similar product. This will also allow you to use a pretty standard buckle, . . . Tandy sells any number that will work for this belt. Alternate about every 2 inches with rivets, . . . top, bottom, top, bottom, . . . about 3/8 inch from the edge. You will have a belt you can be proud of. May God bless, Dwight

I never was too much in the line of laced holsters, . . . but yours looks really good. AND, . . . your stamping looks at least 3 times better than mine. I keep telling myself PATIENCE, . . . PATIENCE, . . . PATIENCE, . . . then I get just enough in a hurry to mess up the stamping, . . . so I more or less forgo any stamping. I'm only 74, . . . maybe when I get a bit older I'll slow down. In the meantime, . . . have fun with that, . . . you earned it. May God bless, Dwight

I use 120 grit on everything, . . . as Dikman said, . . . a light touch is necessary. I've actually got 2 of em, . . . switch burned up on one, . . . didn't have time to fix it, so I went and got another one, . . . oldest is about 10 years old, . . . both are a bit noisy, . . . but they work great. RockyAussie also mentioned the dust, . . . I use a 5 gallon shop vac, . . . have it connected to the sander and running outside my shop so I don't have to listen to the noisy little rascal, . . . but it keeps the dust down pretty well. I used to do all my sanding outside even in the winter, . . . but with the vac, I don't have to any more. I especially like the edge I get on my belts, . . . and my customers seem to as well. Plus this particular model the sanding belts are fairly inexpensive. I also have a Dremel like Halitech mentioned, . . . but it does not do as good a job on my holsters and belts, . . . so I just use it in the tight places. I started to build a 2 x 72 belt sander for some other work, . . . also wanted to use it in the leather work, . . . decided it would be too aggressive. Hope this helps, may God bless, Dwight

I use this one for all my leather working needs, . . . it has a hose connection for a sweeper, . . . I really like that I use it for sheaths, belts, wallets, badge cases, holsters, key fobs, . . . all of it. Harbor freight, . . . originally about 40 bucks, . . . about twice that now. May God bless, Dwight

My guess is that the spring steel will make his pocket stand out, . . . let him try it without the steel, . . . I always make mine with the rough side out, . . . like you are doing The double stitched piece up front will hit the top of the pocket, . . . strips off the holster, . . . works perfect every time. Do a light molding of the gun, . . . then after it dries, . . . wiggle it hard back and forth to loosen it up, . . . May God bless, Dwight

Welcome from the Ohio portion of the US, . . . we have fun here, . . . stick around and join us. Are you working on a project at the moment?? May God bless, Dwight

Personally I would cut a piece of suede, . . . shape it to fit the hole. Attach the pin(s) to the suede, . . . contact cement the suede to the bottom of the hole. May God bless, Dwight

Yep, . . . Josh hit this one, . . . I should have mentioned about the oiling that goes with Feibings dyes. I had a bunch of aggravation with their saddle tan, . . . until I got in the habit of oiling before I dyed the leather. I take a cheap bristle brush and lay on a light coat on the flesh side of what ever I'm getting ready to dye, . . . give it 24 to 36 hours in a warm room to dissipate out into the leather uniformly, . . . then give her the old dip dye treatment. My saddle tan problems went away when I started that, . . . so now it is just about universal as doing it that way. I think it was Katsass who mentioned it one time, . . . and I tried it. May God bless, Dwight

Don't know as I've ever ran into that except an occasional light wrinkling effect on the inside layer of some double layer belts I've made. Just every now and then after the thing is done, I see some slight wrinkles but nothing that is harmful, . . . and it is not on the outside where they can be seen. The worst one was one I attributed to an extra heavy application of Resolene, . . . and it was one of the thicker belts I've made. But FYI I also do use all Feibings oil stains, . . . got a bottle of black water base I need to take out to the trash some day. May God bless, Dwight

Not to be hard nosed, . . . but it looks like you really got cheap on the welts for those knife sheaths, . . . or you didn't put any in. A welt for a knife sheath is kinda like a steering wheel for a car. Might get along without it for a while, . . . but in the end you'll sure wish you had it. Thin welts allow the knife to cut to one side of them, . . . eventually cutting the threads, . . . a thicker welt, . . . especially the top 1/3 or so, . . . nearest the finger guard, . . . is mandatory if you want to not cut up your leather work. AND, . . . nix on the rivets, . . . it is always the hallmark of a cheap sheath, . . . May God bless, Dwight

You really have about 2 good options: Leave it as it is, . . . Trash it and start over, . . . You already figured out what happens if you start punching more holes in there, . . . unless of course you add enough to make it look like you are decorating the belt with extra holes every 1/2 inch or so. May God bless, Dwight

Welcome from another Ohio resident who dabbles in leather. I'm from down Marion way, . . . do mostly holsters, gunbelts, knife sheaths, . . . but dabble in other things as well, . . . chaps, vests, key fobs, etc. Grab a empty ammo crate, . . . sit down, . . . and enjoy. May God bless, Dwight

After the belt is done, . . . as far as the "making" is concerned, . . . a light coat of neatsfoot oil to the hair side of the leather. Let it dry 24 to 36 hours. Dip dye, . . . lay on top edge in a circular pattern for 10 minutes, . . . flip to bottom edge and allow the dye to dry. Driying time 24 to 36 hours as well. Burnish all leather edges. Really good rub down picking up all the left over pigment that did not go into the leather. One to three coats of resolene (cut 50/50 with water) Put on the buckle and send to the customer. NEVER have had a complaint on the construction, finish, or the wearing of my belts. May God bless, Dwight

Sorry in one way to see you go, . . . have enjoyed your holster comments down thru the years, . . . But, . . . glad for you in another way. I've done that type of move several times in my "career" and most turned out to be good moves, . . . Wish you the best, . . . stay in touch, . . . May God bless, Dwight

THE key, Jennifer, . . . that blade has to be polished, . . . polished sharp, . . . and if you have never done it, . . . it takes a good effort to get the technique down. This video shows one way to do it: The sharper your blade is, . . . the easier it is to cut the leather. ALSO, . . . give the leather a light coat of neatsfoot oil 24 to 36 hours before you start to cut it, . . . THAT will greatly improve your cutting. A useful tool is a pair of hand metal seamer tool. Harbor freight has them: 6 in. Straight Jaw Sheet Metal Seamer Pittsburgh®- Item#98728 That tool will help you pull the leather thru, . . . and use a bit of a side to side motion, . . . so you are cutting one corner, . . . then the next, . . . back and forth. It can be done, . . . and again, . . . you need that blade to be scary sharp, . . . and be careful. Once you get it up there polished and really sharp, . . . you can nick yourself with it, . . . and you won't even notice it until you see the blood all over. May God bless, Dwight

Exceptionally good, . . . you did yourself proud there. May God bless, Dwight

Thanks, . . . I just couldn't find it, . . . but then again, . . . I'm not the brightest computer light bulb out here. . . . May God bless, Dight

Well, . . . I spent 20 minutes looking at every menu or link I could find, . . . still have not found them. May God bless, Dwight

Nahh, . . . the "they" are the fingers. Their idea is that fingers are for hamburgers, . . . machines are for sewing and lacing. At 74 I've got just enough arthritis in them that I tend to agree with the fingers. May God bless, Dwight