alpha2

Been wondering about that one, mystery solved!

Mo' bettah than my first holster! Nicely done. Jeff

"Besides, how many artists and craftspersons over the decades have become famous posthumously? Just my 2 cents." That's what I'm holding out for!

From seeing this, I'd have to agree. Thanks for the info! I just read the bottle of my Tan-Kote, it says "used to thin Fiebings Antique Finish." Nothing about Acrylic paint. This is unexplored territory for me.

But doesn't that take the applicator, (brush, whatever) out of the glue, that is keeping it from hardening on the applicator? Sorry, I just got my pot and applicators, looking for guidance here.

thanks for the information! I haven't done any waxy/oily leathers yet, but I will. I can see where the thin layer would be preferable. I usually hammer or use a roller to attach the layers.

These are what I use. Craftool Pro stitch-groover is only if I really want a groove. Same for the third one down. And I usually don't want an actual groove. Technically, the second down is also a groover, but I just apply lighter pressure for a mark, instead of a groove.

Link?

Even with soft leather, you can mark a stitch line with dividers and the stitching will cover the line. No need to use any kind of marker. This is the process I used on this checkbook cover and you can't see the divider line at all.

Nice job! Paperweight, what a blast from the past.

An apt descriptor of a few of us...

I planned to just leave it in the pot, but decided against using the bristle brush. I just watched the video from the first page. I need to try some tests today. He got an instant bond with applying to one surface. He used a bristle brush but it was black, and I suspect it was synthetic bristles as opposed to the horsehair type I got with the pot. I'll get back to you today with my results. I didn't mind the smell from the Tanner's Bond, but even with the smallest can available, I'd end up wasting at least a third of the stuff as it hardened up over time. I got a can of the thinner, but that was labor intensive to mix with the hardened stuff, and was a solvent, so, yeah, stank.

I just got mine, I use the glue pot. I tried the brush and the silicone applicator, the brush is very stiff, and becomes stiffer with glue on it. I'm going back to flat bristle brushes. I'll give the silicone applicator another try, but wasn't impressed so far. I use a hair dryer to speed the process, the Aquilim 315 dries much slower than a contact cement like Tanner's Bond. The Aquilim is much more forgiving to misalignment, I can pull it apart within reason, the Tanner's bond pulls leather apart if you try to pull it after the two sides touch. The instructions say if using on leather, to apply to one side and press together, if using on other surfaces, apply to both sides and wait until it goes clear. I did a lining for a checkbook cover the first way, then used the both sides/go clear method when putting the pockets on the lined cover. The second method worked much better for me, I'd like to hear what others have experienced. Jeff

whoa! I just ate, and now I'm hungry again! Ellie sounds like gal that knows her way around catfish!

Well, heck, now I want to see a catfish in a rocker!!! Help a brother out here!

When I grow up, I want to be a battlemunky. Whatever that is. I have to believe it would be a resume enhancer! And, I have one of those thread things on my wall, but with Tiger Thread. It's a color chart, with the actual thread... I know it looks like some cut-offs from some ancient Asian's beard, (think Pai Mei, from Kill Bill), but it's not.

Hey! A clean desk is a sign of a sick mind...even more so for a leatherwork table. I'm sure of it.

I got my two sections of rail from a friend that is president of a steel erection company. They have gantries that run on rails. I suppose he had some left over pieces from the installation. Anyway, another place to try to get some rail pieces.

Typical entry into leatherwork! So, what would a nice leather fishing pliers holster have cost you? 100 bucks? We've all done it!

Sometimes a spray adhesive can prevent bleed through, but it isn't GENERALLY used for leatherwork. It's still an adhesive, and the spray application prevents enough material to bleed through. Just don't go cheap on sprays. Money works. That is a great first project, by the way. I doesn't matter what offshore fishing costs...if you are catching fish, right?

I took the Pinterest plans for a 4x8 table, and cut two feet off the end, for a 4x6. All I could fit in my room. I wish I had the full 8' length, but have found a way to get past it. You do what you can, and fake the rest!

I don't hammer on the wood. There's always a piece of granite below the hammering. The casters are VERY heavy duty. The next size up was way overkill for the application.

You're rockin' it! Looks great! You're not gonna sit on that, are you???

Aw, geez, don't encourage him!

When taking a break on tooling, or even when tooling a large piece, you can wrap the cased leather you haven't gotten to yet with plastic wrap. It's better than drying it out and spraying or wiping more water on it. That's what Stohlmans recommend.