battlemunky

Please don't let this stop you. Promise? Ok, then: I made a collar for my sister's dog and I found out that some dogs are allergic to veg tan and/or dye. It must've itched or something because he scratched his neck raw and scabby. I didn't even know to check first and neither did she. I still feel bad/responsible for that. It was a pretty badass collar too and all it did was inflict pain. I hope your pooch is allergy free and ends up with a good collar it can use for a good long time.

I've yet to try W&C but it's on my list of stuff to try. I don't hate Tandy leather but for the money you can get far less bug bitten, tighter grained veg tan from HO or Horween, etc. I admit too though, I kind of like the charm of some of the bug bitten stuff. It's the fuzzy back loose grain flesh side crap I can't stand. And every once in a while Tandy will act like that is normal, which pisses me off. It may be normal for them but it ain't normal for me or my projects. That is basically my only issue with Tandy's leather.

I've had my gum trag for about 4 or 5 years now and it's still going strong. I keep it in the house with my other leather stuff and not out in the shed where the sanding, air brushing, and dying station are kept. Still has that fresh public bathroom smell and works good. Its also just a 4 oz bottle. I have no idea why mine is lasting so well.

Sucks about your leg but those bags are awesome!

depends on application. If you are working on inner panels for a card wallet, you can thin those down to next to nothing on the edges assuming you aren't making "T" pockets. It's basically for bulk elimination so you decide how much bulk needs to be eliminated in order to achieve whatever goal you are after.

Looks quite tidy and clever use of the nail stones!

I can. I'm on travel until Thursday night but I'll dig them out of the trash and see if I can't get some to transfer onto something. Well, unless Mrs. Munky takes out the trash in the craft room.

Good to have you here. I'm already appreciating your contributions. Welcome

Yeah, there are some really good stitching chisels out there these days but 10 mm is a pretty tall order. Sinabroks or KS Blades is probably about as long as it gets and you'd be hard pressed to get through >10 mm. I'd be afraid of bending them on the way out maybe. If you want to see Nigel's iron reviews, they are also on his website in print so you can see them all in one doc instead of all the videos. https://www.armitageleather.com/pricking-iron will get you there, then click on the pdf icon.

I've bought from these folks in the past: https://www.kjmagnetics.com/ They have all sorts of shapes, polarities, strengths, and sizes.

Looks great man!

Holy crap @johnv474...Misfit Skinny is no joke. Some of those seats have to be north of 5k even with all the detail. That dude is an artist for sure. Thanks for posting that.

Ah yes, the "deluxe" model.

Damn it. I didn't even recognize it before I stepped in it...

A bit of 100% unsolicited advice? Try making some exactly the way you plan to sell them. It takes most folks a while to get to the level of quality seen in that picture and there is probably around 8-10 hrs worth labor and $20-$30 worth of materials, if you know what you are doing. From a business standpoint, that puts you in the red. By all means, give it a go, but know that $86 for a quality long wallet is almost China cheap. I won't even waste the time to click on China cheap stuff. Beware of eBay leather. Some is good, a lot is sold by people who can't even tell you what animal it came off of, let alone adequately describe tannage, etc. You are better off sourcing it from a leather dealer. Please post pics when you finish it.

That quilter's square thingy was a great addition to the measuring toolbox.

I use a Johnson square, an Olfa quilters thingy, an aluminum meter stick (for longer runs), and a steel ruler (metric and imperial units on each side). I put non-slip tape on them so they don't move, all except the Olfa thingy since it is frosted and doesn't move anyhow.

@BKW you mention soaking the sheath... I wouldn't fully soak it but as the others have suggested apply on the exterior and let it soak in. Soaking it could have some unwanted consequences and needlessly use a lot of product. Also, if your ratio is off, over oiling will make a messy, oozing, floppy mess of an article. Too much oil is not a good thing. I oiled the living hell out of a few items with NFO early on and they got sorta mushy and were ruined. Completely unusable. Higher wax content if you are going to soak, but then you have to deal with wax all over the knife.

If that isn't the most clever bag I'll see today, I don't know what it'll be. That is not only cool, it looks super well made too.

I'm still using the Harbor Freight cheapo. Still works for what I use it for so if/when it dies I'll probably get another.

Where in Bama you at?

The Tandy needles are crap, IMHO. John James #2 needles are a dream. It's hard to think that something as simple as a needle can be that much better but they are. They aren't stupidly priced either. I have a Tandy awl and used it for a few years. There are better ones but it works pretty well. It will need to be sharpened if it is anything like mine. Any reason why you want to use linen thread, especially for a holster or sheath? Polyester or nylon will last for decades wet or dry. The linen will rot and/or snap long before then. Linen has its place but specifically for a sheath or a holster, I'd go with polyester or nylon. Tiger thread is super good stuff but not cheap. The "hand sewing thread" on Amazon, from China, isn't bad and they're damn near giving it away. Especially if you are new, it may be worth it to save a few bucks initially and then once you work out the bugs you can upgrade to higher dollar thread. Personally though, I'd use poly or nylon.

Welcome Ray!

Yep, I'm with everyone else, I think it looks super good, especially for a first article. Keep rolling with the punches, it's coming out just fine!

That's a great save man! You did a good thing man