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battlemunky

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Everything posted by battlemunky

  1. Cool beans! If you can, please post pics too. I haven't made a watch strap in several months since I watched that video so I've yet to try it.
  2. I know Acadia has some really nice blues. You could always split it down yourself. Use some card stock to the desire thickness with a channel between each side and clamp a razor blade to them and feed the strap into it and pull through. There's a YT video out there with it, let me see if I can find it. brb... Found it:
  3. I would also like to add: HAVE YOU SEEN HIS MAULS?!?!?!?!? You guys gotta click the link in his signature. Holy $h!+, they too are next level awesome.
  4. Annnnd I quit! J/K! Now we know what to shoot for. Excellent work Sir!
  5. Yeah man, I agree with the others, it looks good and ain't easy to get it to look good.
  6. @DV8DUG Ok, here is what I got with a few caveats to begin. I thought I had the Navy Blue but only have the Blue (assuming there's a "regular ol' " implied in front of it) and I applied with Q-tips not airbrush. I assume you could get a similar result with a dauber as well but I use swabs for tests, etc. I appear to have gotten a similar result as you though...very little variation between the ratios. 3:1 looks a lot like 5:1. Let me know if you have any questions. I measured everything with a syringe, in 1 cc increments, clean swab end for each run. I screwed up my ratios on the sheet but will clarify here: 2:1 was actually 1 part stain, 1 part water. 75% was supposed to mean 3 parts stain to 1 part either 91% isopropyl or water, and 5:1 means 5 parts to 1 part isopropyl or water. It wasn't really a surprise to me being as it was waterstain that the waterstain looks a bit better cutting it with water.
  7. Is that the Dieselpunk Motoko1? Looks very similar if not. I just bought the packet of the 3 Motoko bags and have to make the computer bag for a friend's father-in-law. You executed that well.
  8. I have that same stain. I'll give it a few test shots in a bit and get back to you.
  9. Looks super cool. How was it to work with aside from edges? Is it chrome or veg?
  10. Can't see the green sheen in the above pic so much but that odd metallic shine you can see was green.
  11. I switched to Pro dye specifically because of this. You never can tell when its gonna happen and when it isn't. I've never had it happen with the Pro dye, I figure the extra buck per bottle is worth the consistency. Good to know that resolene will fix it, unless you don't want a shiny finish.
  12. Excellent point (pun intended) @Stetson912. I have one of those clear punch pads and have actually gone through it with other stuff so I think I'm going to put some scrap leather under it just to be safe. They will fly through 7/9 oz like it ain't there. Come out super easy too. I watched about every review out there on them before I bought them and did know about the KS Blade guy starting Sinabroks. I didn't really have a preference aside from Nigel's review tipping me over into SInabroks. Aside from the brass handle on a striking tool thing, I think the SInabroks are just about perfect.I don't even know if the brass handle is going to be a problem because I only use metal on metal for rivets and my stitching chisels are put up by that point. The Sinabroks are damn fine. I went with a five tooth and a two tooth. If I ever find myself needing larger I'll order another one to fit that in a second. They were $150 for the two of them and I don't have any buyer's remorse. My stitching is already noticeably improved. Any variation from awling and blowout from my cheap irons is remedied. As long as I keep my needles in the right place and my tension good, I'm golden. Sorry for the impromptu chisel review/fanboy session.
  13. Sad thing is, I did tamp down those stitches. I figured it was that my irons were dull... I ordered some Sinabroks I'm working on a LEO wallet and a Dieselpunk Motoko 3 bag right now, so we'll see how those new irons do with blowout.
  14. Ok, here's a few pics of the ends showing dye penetration between the heavy handed black dye and the one coat on the edges. From there, I rubbed the edge on a white paper towel and got nothing. Then I wet it and rubbed it on the paper towel and got very next to nothing. A very very slight transfer. In my book, oil dye slicked with water, gum trag, and beeswaxed is pretty well set.
  15. Padding would probably help. Honestly, I think it was a fluke but I can't NOT say something.
  16. I'm in the airport now, so in another 5 hrs or so I should be home. I'll grab some pics of the dye penetration as well as doing a transfer test.
  17. It isn't just chrome tan though. Mine was 8/9 oz vegtan with Fiebing's spirit dye and dubbin to seal it. It blew my mind. Actually, I knew chrome tan was bad for metals but didn't know it was bad for skin exposure since so many clothing articles and furniture coverings are chrome tan, so than you right back for letting us know @Sturme. I'm not a fan of chrome tan but I'm not an enemy of it either. Horween ChromeXL is some sweet leather...
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