Hags

That's pretty cool. I think the holster fits the hand gun's persona very well.

Thanks. As long as they pay me, I dont care what their choices are. The one I'm building a holster for now is not worth what they are paying me for the holster.. but, whatever.

I like that a lot. I really enjoy the "making" of things. I worked for a very large northwest lumber company's wood chip export yard and did most of the cqble and rope splicing we needed done. Small stuff mainly, but needed a marline spike of my own. Made it out of a ash sledgehammer handle. Still have it.

Glad you tried it. I've used my set up for quite a few holsters now. No change in power, hasn't used any oil. I have no issues with oil vapor, but do have have some transference of dye to the bag. I think when you put recently dyed, wet leather in a bag and suck it down its inevitable. The bag Adams leather works uses on his video is pretty brown as well. I dont leave my mo,dad holsters in the bag under vacuum for very long. I pull vac, form the front, stop, flip the holster over, and apply vac and do the back. Take it out of the bag and detail.

Or you could possibly just put a servo motor on it? Not real expensive anymore and can be very slow if needed or very fast. Not familiar with the machine, but we have people here who will be I bet.

And be real sure the bobbin is loaded correctly. I've had machine for a while now but that was one of my earliest mistakes. It makes a difference which way it comes off the bobbin.

Nothing against the gun, did not like the grip. Too square. I understand they have changed this in later models, but still dont care for them much.

Mine ended up 3/4 x 1 ". I find it a bit big for the front of most holsters. Probably going to have another made about 1/2 x 3/4. Easier to fit on the sides of stitch lines. I really think an oval with an outside line would be cool.

Sweet Chuck! Nice job.

Yes, I dye before I sew etc. I use a dauber, first circular, then one way , then the across that. I then put a light coat of NFO. And not all bottles of light brown are the same. The last one was several shades darker. I buy the 32 oz bottles. I also think wet molding evens it out and adds character. I dont think NFO before dye would be a bad thing, just isn't how I do it.

Yeah, don't own one myself..

Had a request for a pancake for a glock 19. Hermann Oak 7/8 veg tan Fiebings pro dye light brown Cobra class 3, 207 bonded nylon top and bottom Initially formed in my vacuum set up Dried in the wife's oven on the bread proofing setting Resolene and water 50/50

Looks pretty nice!

My eyesight is not what it used to be either. My cobra. Ame with both lights and I use them both. I wonder if a magnifying glass with a light that has an arm that could clamp on the machine would help with vision issues.i see them on Amazon.

Still use them.

I did a bunch of 4 oz weights for decoys. I had a 50lb ingot. I set it on blocks of wood then heated the end with a propane plumbers torch and melted it into a pot. I tried saws, chisels, and cussing. The torch was the easiest by farI then placed it on a goodwill hotplate and melted it dow to pour into the mold. You might look into local shooting clubs and skeet ranges. A lot of them sell the shot they recover.

I think you're doing great! There will be a learning curve, I've had my class 3 for a bit over a year now and am just beginning to feel like I am getting it dialed in. Arthritis forced me to up the $ for one as well. Just remember that bigger stitches are not always better.

Any relation to a person named Hans?

Wow, pretty cool. But, out of my range. I'm sure there's a collector out there some where.

I put a separate thermometer in the oven and it barely registers 110. Not sure it got to that really. But it does have a fan that circulates the air and I believe that does as much as the temp. Before that, I just put it in there with the light on overnight.

I use the bread proofing setting on my wife's oven to dry my holsters during the winter. You really dont the heat to be much over 100.

I bought a cobra class 3. It works very well on the holsters and sheaths I predominately make, but is not the best suited machine for lighter leathers. Really, I think it was a bit of overkill for 2 layers of 7/8, but I do like the cylinder arm. I would take a look at the cobra (or similar) class 26 machine. I believe Makers leather supply has a video on it. Might be the one.

Nice work. No end of possible changes to anything you do. Mabe that's why I have 3 pistols and 15 holsters!

Very nice!

Use it for reenactment pieces, mountain man stuff. Call it patina.