Hags

I found an Emerson Electric Manufacturing co motor with Sears and roebuck 1/2 in arbors on it for $20 at a garage sale. It had a wire brush and buffer wheel on it. So quiet, plenty powerfull, lots of torque for an old motor. Ran an add on next door for a wood Turner and got a pretty decent burnisher with 5/8, 1/2, and so on done in maple for a $40 donation to a local charity. 1750 rpm, works fine.

207 and a #23 needle. I'm going to try 277 with the same size needle. According to the chart I'm one under now? I also changed vendors for my thread. I like this thread better as it has a firmer texture, but maybe that makes it just a tad thinner as well? Ths 277 from this vendor may work with a 23, the last thread didn't like it at all.

Nicely done Chuck!

Had a return customer ask me to make him another chest rig in "natural" leather with no stain. I built a chest holster (ideas for a better name would be appreciated) for his baby desert eagle in 45 acp. He carries this when he and his wife are out rock houding and is concerned about snakes. Natural doesn't hide a lot of mistakes.. and yes, I like the chest rigs. They pay for a lot of leather and it is a great hobby for a retired guy.

Thanks. I'd never seen one like that either. I've bui.t a couple of holsers for him and was flattered he brought this to me.

I think they look pretty sharp! I'm a lefty that shoots right. Left handed holsters make me think too much. Check out the holster forum!

Try photo puma, free and very easy.

That is most likely a tube rivet. There is a hole in the middle and the rivet spreads outward. Look them up, you'll see them, very common. I have to agree with a post on the other thread thoug. I feel a copper rivet would serve better.

I think it looks pretty good. There will always be room for improvement. And trying new materials is always a learning experience.

I bought one of the newer Bianchi strap cutters thinking it would be greatest thing. It. Was marginally better than my cheap tandy wooden one, but I wish I'd have bought another wooden one of higher quality. The pistol grip is not that ergonomic for me and you cant adjust for thickness.

There is also Maine thread. I've been using it for quite a while and like it. For light stuff, .020 For holsters etc, .040

Very nice Chuck. She's going love it.

I use Chicago screws for the attachment points on my chest rig holsters with purple loctite. Snug, but moveable.

Well you get what you pay for is certainly true. I have suffered from hitting the stamps too hard for a while when I started. I use a 16oz round polymer mallet and find that less is best. You will find that all tools take a different amount of stroke. A basket weave stamp of 6x12mm will take more force than than a small mulesfoot. Practice is the key. Get on Youtube and keep practicing. But lose the metal hammer for tooling.

Heck, I sewed right through the paint stick on my swatters. People loved it! Sewing through wood! Softer than my holsters. Good job on the larger size. I bought a class 3 and wish I'd gone the little bit more for the class 4 with the deeper throat.

That's pretty cool. I think the holster fits the hand gun's persona very well.

Thanks. As long as they pay me, I dont care what their choices are. The one I'm building a holster for now is not worth what they are paying me for the holster.. but, whatever.

I like that a lot. I really enjoy the "making" of things. I worked for a very large northwest lumber company's wood chip export yard and did most of the cqble and rope splicing we needed done. Small stuff mainly, but needed a marline spike of my own. Made it out of a ash sledgehammer handle. Still have it.

Glad you tried it. I've used my set up for quite a few holsters now. No change in power, hasn't used any oil. I have no issues with oil vapor, but do have have some transference of dye to the bag. I think when you put recently dyed, wet leather in a bag and suck it down its inevitable. The bag Adams leather works uses on his video is pretty brown as well. I dont leave my mo,dad holsters in the bag under vacuum for very long. I pull vac, form the front, stop, flip the holster over, and apply vac and do the back. Take it out of the bag and detail.

Or you could possibly just put a servo motor on it? Not real expensive anymore and can be very slow if needed or very fast. Not familiar with the machine, but we have people here who will be I bet.

And be real sure the bobbin is loaded correctly. I've had machine for a while now but that was one of my earliest mistakes. It makes a difference which way it comes off the bobbin.

Nothing against the gun, did not like the grip. Too square. I understand they have changed this in later models, but still dont care for them much.

Mine ended up 3/4 x 1 ". I find it a bit big for the front of most holsters. Probably going to have another made about 1/2 x 3/4. Easier to fit on the sides of stitch lines. I really think an oval with an outside line would be cool.

Sweet Chuck! Nice job.

Yes, I dye before I sew etc. I use a dauber, first circular, then one way , then the across that. I then put a light coat of NFO. And not all bottles of light brown are the same. The last one was several shades darker. I buy the 32 oz bottles. I also think wet molding evens it out and adds character. I dont think NFO before dye would be a bad thing, just isn't how I do it.