CowboyBob

On the second tension unit marked #23 wrap the thread around it 1 & 1/2 times.

Sure wished I could help,I've never seen this model before.This Singer looks alot like a Chandler darner(which parts aren't available for either) but the bobbincase looks different.

Just tighten them all the way in & loosen 1/8 of a turn @ the most,too loose & they'll fall out & they won't hold the stitch length.

Maybe you have the little screws on what we call the gib too tight on the stitch length adjuster,I wouldn't change the shaft if I were you.If you oil & run the machine some it will probably loosen up.With the pressure foot down they will have a tight spot in them when they push the foot up,is it still have a tight spot when you lift the foot?

A rare one for sure,I like the pedal,it does look a bit like the 206.Nice Find!!

That "divit" will be at different positions @ different stitch lengths.Also it wouldn't hurt to put some oil in the stitch length cam to make it work smoother.

Back in the day I used to sell both of these when they were new,can't remember the price but the serger is great for 2-3 layers of lightweight shirt or dress material & maybe 1 layer of thin canvas but the cutters won't cut anything much heavier that that.

Some of these had that guide when the bobbin winder was built-in on top of the machine

No,they both have been sold.

We always use the 45mm & no one has ever complained they run too fast.LOL

Turn your spindle all the way in ,take out screw BB,turn screw CC all the way in until it stops & re-install screw CC will make your stitch length longer. If you use the shorter 135x5 needles you won't break as many as the longer 135x17. If you sewing canvas the double row feed dogs will work better.

I hate to tell you ,your either overlooking something OR it is out of time,because if it was in time it would be sewing.Once in a while the pin on the top cam(belt pulley breaks) the end of the screw on the pinion gear can also break.As you turn the machine the needle bar goes down ,starts to come up ,goes & then when it goes up the 2nd time is when the point of the shuttle should be above the eye of the needle.

It's the top part of the saddle that needs to be milled,not the hook bushing hole.The larger hooks are taller the the small ones ,the top hook bushing needs to be milled also,an easier way is to buy a Juki 563 saddle which sometimes popup on Ebay.You'll also need the Juki 563 Take Up lever.

From what I can see it looks like the correct one,which is short on this model of 45K

Are you sure there's enough slack in the foot lift chain(or wire) from the pedal to the lifter arm on the backside?

I'm glad to hear you got it fixed.Thanks for letting us know you found the problem,so many times people don't come back & post the fix.

The problem you will run into with longer stitches on this model is the continuously wheel-feed system on it,it doesn't stop like most machines so if you go to stitches that are too long it will bend & break needles.You didn't mention what you want to sew,but I see your into old cars so I suppose you might want to sew car seats?If so there are alot better machines suited for the task than this one.Singer 11W or 211W,Juki 562,563,Consew 206,225,226 to name a few.They all have walking feet & needle=feed that help pull the material through you can also get cording feet for them too.

Here's a file with a better explanation of how to adjust it by using the screws.Showing that you have to remove screw BB to turn CC to change the length & clockwise will make it longer ,after adjusting be sure to put screw CC back in there to lock it so it doesn't move.

Yes,the feet will fit ,feed dogs are different,the Consew P1206RB is the same machine just alot less $$ then Sailrite & all the parts interchange.

Those shafts are real hard to change,it would be easier to turn the adjuster screw all the way in & use the screws on page # 11 of this manual to change the stitch length.111w101 (1).pdf

The bobbin winder shaft looks like it's for a large bobbin,the 30-15 I have is a standard lift large bobbin.I've never seen a 30-17 b4.

AFAIK they are the same.

Nice work!

Here's a Landis #& 16,Champion & American Straight Needle needle & awl sizes needed for thread size. Landis_Champion__Amer_Straight_needle_chart.pdf

Before you take it out take a pic of how the handlifter is compared to the lifter bracket that it hits when you lift the arm & make it the same when you re-install it.You need to make sure there's not much play in the hand lifter before it contacts the lifter bracket,not enough play & the foot won't go all the way down too much & you won't get much lift under the foot.It's not hard to adjust as needed.