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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. Oh,yeah we have a lot of thread & we only have the LR point.
  2. The 45K76 is a darner as you know.I have changed them years ago,there is a lot of parts need to change it & some of the holes aren't drilled & tapped as they should be.It's a a lot of work for a machine that might sew just under 1/2" & you have the markings of the feed dog on the bottomside of the leather since it doesn't have a walking foot.
  3. Your Welcome,Tom
  4. Hey Jeff, Like the pic on the left,bevel towards inside.
  5. We have them f/$38.00 + shpg.
  6. Is it around $38.00 ?
  7. It's between the red dots.
  8. You can start with a pin 7/16" or 11mm long,it's might be alittle longer than what you need BUT you can always grind it off or bend the release bracket on the backside of the tension.
  9. They are for the light & should be 6 volts,you should take the end cover off & see if these wires come off of the windings or are connected to the wiring block where the others connect,if it comes from the windings it's 6 volt for sure.
  10. Wiz,they are talking about the internal timing belt.(Your up too late!!) LOL
  11. There is a screw in the shuttle that the bobbincase pivots on when you open it,once in a while it can loosen up & rub against the race & make noise.Also if you pull it out to check it make sure to tighten the 2-race screws all the way & back them off 1/2 turn so the race can float.
  12. When you first start sewing do you hold on to the needle thread for the first 3-4 stitches & are you sure the upper tension is threaded correctly,looping underneath is either too loose or upper thread threaded wrong.Make sure the thread is pulled down in-between the discs .
  13. Does this machine have a roller feed or feed dogs?
  14. Sounds like the rotary hook got some thread jammed in it,oil the hook area & keep trying to turn the handwheel backwards to unjam it.
  15. Before you start turning any screws are you sure it's threaded correctly & do you hold on to the needle thread for the first 3-4 stitches? You also need to stop & start sewing the the thread take up lever(chrome piece with an eye you thread through) all the way @ the top of it's stroke.
  16. Here's one I picked up that didn't have a model# tag on it from 1891,it has the long beak too.It looks like a 16 class to me.
  17. I've never seen a hopping foot one like this. Nice find!
  18. Great pics,I'm surprised to see it's still there.THANKS !!
  19. This is the best way to go then you can get any size & point you need since it is such a common needle.
  20. I found one. Adler 267 oper manual print 7 to 22.pdf
  21. Search Google for Adler 267.
  22. I've never seen an Industrial version of the 850,I thought they all were a home machine with a built-in motor.
  23. The only finger that holds the hook basket in place is the upper one @ the top of the hook.When this type of machine gets thread jammed in the hook it makes it bind up & if the clutch doesn't kickout fast enough it gets forced out of the finger.Alot of times it bends the finger away from the slot & needs to be taken off & either replaced or re-bent so it can hold.
  24. To change it you need to get a hook saddle on the145 part # 91-010059-45,both gears ,bobbincase opener & take-up for the larger bobbin machine for this swap to work.Moving the bushing is the easiest part.
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