CowboyBob

You don't want to back them off too much or it'll kick out when you adjust the stitch length.

Nice to have !

Somebody might have tightened the 3-spring setting screws,from the pic it looked like they were missing,back them out alittle(maybe 1/2 of the way out) & see if it disengages.

It looks to me as far as I can tell the just welded the collar part to the shaft(that is normally held on w/2 screws),is it welded somewhere else too?If not it should still kick-out like it should.

Take the head out of the table & it'll fit in your wifes RAV4 by laying it down on the backside.

Glenn is right it's 1/2".

There's a locking screw that holds the adjusting screw.The locking screw at the end of the pen, the screw you need to tighten alittle is @ the end of the screwdriver.There's 2-screws on the feed cam that push on a narrow piece of metal in the feed cam we call a gib, just loosen the locking screw & then you can tighten the adj screw until it's snug,if you overtighten it it'll make the stitch length harder to impossible to change.Don't forget to tighten the locking screws when you get done.

I'm guessing all they had was yellow paint?? LOL !!

Sounds like a good machine!Pretty much setup to go as-is.

IDK if it were me I'd get the Consew,it does have a safety clutch ,adjustable foot pressure & a larger bobbin & you'll be able to get a much wider range of feet for it too@ a much lower price than Adler feet.Also some of the older 67's have a cloth cleated timing belt which is no longer available & requies a belt pulley change when it breaks since they aren't made anymore for around $350.00.Yes,the Adler are built better than a Consew but they both will sew the same thickness & material.

Yes,all machines have a range of thickness & thread size they can sew.Machines that use thicker thread normally won't handle thin thread & thin material.Sometimes heavier machines can be adjusted for thinner thread & material but then you'll have to re-adjust it for larger thread & thicker material.So the best answer no one wants the hear is buy 2 machines.One for thicker that uses heavier thread & one for the lighter.Since your starting out you'll have to figure out which one is better suited for you.

Yes,look @ your inside needle feet.The single needle foot only has one hole in the center.The double needle inside foot hole are set @ what guage or needle spread your machine has which can vary.The needle naturally needs to line up with the hole in the foot.

No,the standard 111w foot will not work on a single needle,the inside foot has a hole in the center.A welt foot for a double needle has the be special made do to the fact there is also different widths of needle spacings.So you need to call Tennessee Attachment,let them know the size you want & the needle spacing & they'll make it.

Yes,there's no marks to line up BUT there is a feed lift cam ON the bottom shaft & if it's wrong you'll have to readjust it & the hook timing too.So the easiest thing to do is when you go to put the belt on is rotate the center lower shaft so the feed dog is just coming up through the needle plate,then slide the belt on.So if when you get done turn it around & check your timing if it's off you need to slide the belt off & turn which ever way it needs to go to sew w/o re-adjusting the timing.Because if that way you won't have to adj the cam or the timing.

FWIW ,The 188's come from the factory with that type of handwheel.This machine was made for tailor & dress shops for thin cloth material.The problem with the declutching system is any type of thickness & it'll slip.

This is more of a nylon webbing machine than for leather,feet will be hard to find because it's not a commonly used machine.You should check with Tecsew they used to sell this model & might have something.The needles,bobbins from standard 441 will fit but that's about all that will interchange.I don't remember the Model# but if you ask for the high lift 16" long cylinder arm machine with outside walking foot & tension on the front they should know. HTH

Yes,Constabulary gave you some good advice.It also helps to use 1 size smaller thread in the bobbin than on top.Also be sure to hold the thread when you start sewing for the first 3-4 stitches to prevent jamming.

Yes,very well built & look like it'll do the job.

Here's a pic of it.Like Wiz says you don't want to loosen the larger screw w/a spring under it ,the smallers ones(A&B in diagram) are down in a hole(casting) Turning it to the left is smaller ,right is longer.

Yes,we are it sells for $190.00+ UPS. It give a 3-1 reduction same as the other type.

Yes,smaller # is a smaller needle.Here's a needle & thread chart that will help you to know what size needle to nbuy for your thread size.Yes smaller # is a smaller needle. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

I know it's too late BUT next time you get a machine the best way to clean it is spray it with WD40 or something similar & blow it out with air.The machine does not have to be super clean to sew.So what happens when it's taken apart is it ends up getting out of time.Your lucky here's a manual showing the timing & all the other adjustments for this machine. http://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/211U157A_165A_166A_566A.pdf

Oops,I meant shuttle driver.