CowboyBob

One more fly in the ointment,starting 9/24/18 there's a 10% tariff on many goods from China & sewing machines & thread are on the list & it will be going up to 25% after 1/1/19.

This should help you.

I'll never forget the day I went to a service call in town here & walked in a room with 2 of these clunking away side by side.What a sound!

Yes,they will interchange,the knee lifts are different & you'll probably have to adjust the belt because the pulleys are a different diameter.

Yes,I just got the news a couple days ago & it starts on 9-24 any imported machines will have 10% on them & after 1-1-19 it's going up to 25% so if you've been setting on the fence about a machine you better make your mind up soon.Or it will cost you more $$.

138 thread normally will require more tension,you'll get a better looking stitch by going one size smaller thread #92 on the bobbin.These feet are being discontinued by my suppliers do to lack of demand.Like Const said you can grind off the teeth & then also grind or cut the front off to the front of the hole to create an open toe with a Dremel.

That could be hand lift versus foot lift.

Search Consew 206RB-1 here on Leatherworker & you'll find answers to all your questions.

Top of the handwheel 23",top of casting 20",you should take the wheel off to prevent the top shaft from getting bent in case it moves around during the trip, I'll agree w/ Uwe you need a sturdy wooden box to protect it.

Thanks for posting this BUT it's a shame it's so far away.If I were to bid on anything I'd have to leave before I knew if I got the bid since it would take me 3-days to get there! In my big truck I can only drive 11 hrs a day & it's a 3-day trip 1,900 mi one way @ 10mpg x$3.00 a gallon =$1,200 in fuel alone!then motels & eats another $700.00.I'm sure someone closer will get some good deals.

Hello Fredo, I'm happy to see you got it up & sewing so quickly.The belt needs to be that tight or it'll slip.The style of motor we use has a built-in brake so when your foot is off of the pedal it will be hard to turn the machine over,so if you push the pedal down 1/4" it releases it so you can turn the machine by hand.Also,when you stop & start sewing you always want to have the takeup lever(chrome piece you thread through & goes up & down when sewing) @ the highest point. Have fun & Thanks for Buying a hard working Cowboy !!

You have too much travel on the take up spring ,loosen the screw that holds the tension on & turn the whole tension approx. 1/4" to the left or so you have 1/2 of the travel you have now.

Yes,those clutchmotors can get away from you.We have a servo that is easy to operate & install here;https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html

You need to loosen the screw on the tension adjustment bracket (which has a slot in it) & move it to the right alittle until it starts to track evenly side to side.

That's a great deal almost 1/2 price!

It's the cyl arm version of a 78 class Singer. Great job,looks real nice !!

It has an opening of 1/4" & will take up to 6 oz of binding material,25mm tape,but the thicker the binding the thinner the binding piece would need to be.

Maybe you should learn what we are talking about before you accuse people of "ripping off" Here's the binder for $450.00 does it look like there's a lot more parts to it?? Of course that's why it costs more !! Let me know Amazons price on this?

Have you seen this manual?http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29K70.pdf Back when these machines were made Singer had repair techs that would come out to repair machines.They wanted to keep them working & making $$ for them so they rarely made repair manuals for that reason.

Can you post a pic of the pulley side of your motor?

You don't want to back them off too much or it'll kick out when you adjust the stitch length.

Nice to have !

Somebody might have tightened the 3-spring setting screws,from the pic it looked like they were missing,back them out alittle(maybe 1/2 of the way out) & see if it disengages.

It looks to me as far as I can tell the just welded the collar part to the shaft(that is normally held on w/2 screws),is it welded somewhere else too?If not it should still kick-out like it should.