RockyAussie

Good thinking

Batman's wings is bugge..........never mind

I think you got a bit of a rare breed there @DavidMac. I have one vaguely similar which was made by Australian Press Knives Pty Ltd .Very old and with the same tediously slow to change blade spacings arrangement. If you don't get any better answers try contacting Texon Aus in Melbourne and ask for John or Spiro to have a look. Brian

Looking at the angle of where the feet would normally be makes me think that it may be a roller foot. The feet on a sewing machine are what is used to hold down the work and sometimes help feed the work through as it is pierced by a needle and thread.

I reakon if we was advancing we'd be using contact glue instead of bullets. Non lethal mostly, better spread over the allowable defending yourself range, no need for rapid fire.........Not so Macho tho I guess or somethin like that... Ya off topic I know.

Well done. Re the die bender I would think to make it foot operated as well so both hands are free to position the rule with.

I should have thought to say earlier that with knives/dies you can generally get them supplied with an ejection rubber which is a little similar to a rubber thong material. Sometimes you may have to add a little to it in thickness and sometimes sand some off depending on what thickness you are normally running. This saves you having to waste time poking them out as they stay on the board until you want to remove the waste leather and then scoop them all up together. When you have to add some to the rubber you just cut out some leather and put it up above the rubber.

The detergent makes the water wet. It allows the water to soak in to the fibres more fully and thus become more supple. Belly leather will give you more stretch for sure and I have seen seamless shoe uppers made from it. What I am saying is that you need to do a lot of stretching and softening before trying to mould to shape. In this post I did awhile back you can see I formed a fairly tight and high handcuff pouch. Note that at the bottom of the top mould there is a relief groove that allows the leather to grip more as the top goes down and give the leather somewhere to swell into and resist back pulling and wrinkles as it dries. The end result of the waste to cut off on these in the end came down to just over 3/8" (10mm). Too much extra can require bigger wrinkles to try and accommodate and is why @robs456 says to V cut the leather I believe.

Excellent outcome. Got to say that's the first time I ever saw a clicker press on caster wheels.I love the coasters and glad to see you've done a double cut straight from the start.

I have not done anything quite with so much stretch and it does say that the leather was boiled which also I have never done. I think your thickness is getting a bit much but for the little it is worth I will say how I would try to do it. Leave the leather soak in hot water with detergent in it for a half hour or more. If you check up on how staking is done in the tanning process you will see a somewhat pointed stick that the hide is repeatedly pulled down over and with a fair bit of effort this can stretch a hide a lot in any given area. By working the centre outward you should then only need to work on broadening the point out to give you the more dome shape you are wanting.

This video by @Uwe has been very helpful to me and may be good here. Note that he has a few other relevant vids on his channel as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZT3AVgj_HLI

The picture does not show the rivet type very clearly but on many a centre punch hammered into the middle will normally give you some clearance to cut at with side cutters or nail removing pincers.

Don"t know if this will help but I had the same problem and they are basically they same machine I believe.

SHeeesh mate....all ya need is a little laser and some masking tape......and a 3dprinter and ya own font of course. Easy - https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/82905-is-there-a-font-for-ivan-alphabet-stamp-set-8132-00/ and maybe....never mind

Since its important and all that - normally 6 packs and sometimes slabs (cartons) and sometimes kegs. The common stubby is 375ml but a little research showed me the following - Aussie population at present about 25 million. How much beer do Aussies drink? There were approximately 186 million litres of pure alcohol available for consumption in Australia in 2016-17. This comprised approximately 73 million litres of beer, 71 million litres of wine, 24 million litres of spirits, 11 million litres of RTDs, and 6 million litres of cider. Oh and we call them stubby coolers and the yanks call em koozie's . BTW - some of the shiela's whoops.... I mean ladies, here reckon they like blokes (Men) with 6 packs. I reckon why a 6 pac when you can have a whole keg instead?

Yeah same here. Guess 20 square feet sounds better than 1.85 sqm . Its them damn ounces that get me most.

As Tom said. Poke ya head out from behind that pine tree in Mississippi and find a hardware store. Great things there await ye

I do quite a lot of edge painting but the answer depends on the thickness and stiffness of the leather. Once you get much thicker than 2mm you often start to get a split line in the paint that either has to be sanded out or ironed in or a bit of both. A bevelled edge gives the advantage of keeping the paint thickness build up into the middle and therefore less of a split line. You can see one example of how I do bevelling on belts in this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY5wWvQvd1k In this vid you can see one of the ways I apply the edge coating on these belts.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiQIHqY5lwk And in this one I am doing a more by hand method - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cR5nUxrrjec Just a tip - do NOT make your edges too smooth before applying the edge paint or you will find out that it can be peeled off in one big long strip as well. A sanded finish is best.

Edge coat only I reckon. Should make up some nice motorcycle tool bags and such if edge coat is a no go for you.

If you check my you tube channel here there is a few skiving ones that you might want to see. I hope to get another one loaded this weekend. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yxXV09EYHk&t=147s If you check my web page you can see the type of wallets and totes and other stuff I make as well. I only mention this as your idea of bags and wallets etc may differ from my own in the type of equipment required. A look in my profile in the about me section will also show a lot of stuff that I make not shown on my website. Don't hesitate to ask anything as doing your homework first is always a very good idea.

They not that good mate, but you've gone and motivated me a bit now so have a look next week maybe. This stuff is all a bit academic for me but isn't a referral the same as an add really? I was sort of hoping that Jeff was getting something for those links in his sig as I was wondering about whether or not to look for any $$$$ myself in that area. You know like it might help pay to make a few worthwhile no BS vids. I don't know much about this bandwidth stuff but I would have thought Joanna would have said something or stopped it if she didn't like it. I might have to have a talk with her as I might be just adding some expense or other that I could be avoiding. P.S. Any body reading this please support this site by being a proud contributor and know that we all gain something from what this site gives back to us. Brian

Good stuff there toxo, that gives an idea of the amount of leather$ one would need for such a project.

Hey Rick, I am curious as to whether a top and bottom feed roller machine is good for "Fine" leather work. As far as I know they are for handling the thicker tougher leathers more so. I run a roller foot on top of mine mostly but it is not a feeding roller. Fine leathers (garment/upholstery)do tend to stick to the bottom feed roller more often and come back up to wreck your job so I will also recommend getting one with a suction (aspirator).TechSew and Campbell Randall have them and the latter shows a good parts supply on their website.

Marvellous looking bag there @toxo and looking at your work I think and hope to be seeing more in the future. A few more of the steps shown would be great to see as well.