RockyAussie

With out the stitching the lace would pull the sides together. The lacing is not constructional at all only decorative. Very nice work there @Hahn and thank you for sharing your work here with us.

Thanks for the compliment. I hope to get a newer video and a little more info on the zipper tool up this week sometime. It shows how easily the links can be shortened and made to fit an application perfectly an it is done on a crocodile bag this time. Also I have been printing out heaps over the last couple of weeks and hope to get some over to the US sometime soon. Kind regards Brain

I forgot to answer this part. The Kingsley letters I use on the ring boxes is a Redwood font size 42 pt. The letters are white metal I think which I believe has some lead content but I have found to be very durable over many years of use.That particular font is very hard to find up for sale. A similar one I bought over from Howard Imprinting Machine Co. is called Mayfair and the link above of theirs will show that they make a large range of various letter sets. Unfortunately the lead content appears to be very high and the finish is a bit poor. The part where the letters touch seems fine but the edges all need to be rubbed down. I would still say better value than anything else except the second hand Kingsley sets. See pictures. This is the Mayfair set.They do not come with a separation box like this just all together. Note the unfinished edges A little rubbing with a screwdriver tip seems to work As I said the lead content is high you can use it like a pencil on paper. I probably should be wearing gloves. That's all I have for now. Hope that all helps. Brian

I have to admit that getting a design that prints out easily on the is something that I have yet to master and get right every time. Separating into components is often the best solution. Tip - Super glue works well on pla.

WOW that is beautiful work and I just love it

OK they are happy now. Next thing I would say is if you are thinking of doing monogramming and such to think carefully about the letter sets and the amount of letters you get in a set. Very often words and names will use the same letter (note the word letter has 2 t's and 2 e's ). I do recommend going on line and looking for the old Kingsley letters as they are well finished and do hold up well with repetitive use. Typically they will have multiple letters of the most commonly used letters and often can be bought very inexpensively when you think about the cost for each letter. Normally they also come with varying width spacers to set between words as well. See picture The Redwood font I use on the ring boxes has full stops, commas and a lot of other pieces as well which brings us to the letter set holders. Most of these letter sets are a lot taller than the WUTA letters you have ordered and the holder used with the Wuta set will not work with these sets unfortunately. Assuming you have ordered the Wuta letter set holder as in this picture below it should be possible to adapt it to fit into the same slide in holder I am getting to. This next pic shows some of the dovetail type of attachments that enable the holding block to attach to the heater blocks. Note that the large middle one has an extra tab piece secured by the handle which allows some fine adjustment of the block in and out. Now although some machines use a screw in attachment to secure the dovetail piece in I way prefer the ease of the spring in type of attachment as I am pointing to in the below picture. A better one without my finger in the way. Note that the plate at the back is screwed in tight and does not need to move as well. In the picture of your block that holds the heating element it appears to hold the element into the block with a grub screw as shown in this picture with a red line pointing to it. If you try turning this anticlockwise (very carefully) it may allow the element to slide out. DO NOT tighten this hardly at all when you put it back as these elements are not normally attached this way. They, if any at all are sort of glued in with a special paste normally. This if successful will allow you to remove the block to make the adaptations more easily. I think the pictures above should work well enough to explain but here is a drawing that may help as well. AS you see I work in metric measurements sorry. The pieces I have put in a black hatch are the main pieces to make up this set up. On the top left there is 2 plates that show one screwed into place on the left and one that is held in place by a spring with a bolt in the middle and a pin locater on either side to keep that plate straight. Under that diagram the 2 pieces shown in hatch are simply a 2" x 4" by 1/8" and a 1 1/2" x 4" by 1/8" flat plate which could be mild steel or brass if you prefer. Mild steel should be in those sizes available from the scrap at almost any steel working place. In the case with adapting a slide onto the Wuta letter set holder it will only require the one 2" plate as it it only 18mm wide and therefore will not need further clearance. As the slot is 8mm you will have 5mm either side to screw down into the block and logically some 3mm or 1/8" unc cup head bolts will be needed to attach it. I would use 4 or perhaps 6 if you dont mid doing the thread tapping part of the job. Rather than going to the trouble of making a letter set holder for holding logo's and letters to start with I would recommend buying one of this type from Howard's I do not know what sort of dovetail or method is attached to the back but I would say it could be unscrewed and a plate attached to suit the above set up. Here is a link to their web site - https://www.howardimprinting.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=395&zenid=1b5a85a34d46650fa3876a403ec905f1 They also have some spacers sets for about $18.00 and I would get some of them to help locate the letters or logos either way. I get a lot of logo's done in magnesium and they get attached to these spacer bars to help with a quick change. Pic below. That should give you a bit to chew on for now and I gotta go and do a bit of chewing now .. I will check back with a bit more later.

I probably should do a separate post on this subject of embossing at some stage as it is a whole big world of experience by itself. For some it is just getting down their own Logo and for some like myself it is getting down a large amount of different customers logo's and things like belt size stamping and the need for being able to quickly interchange the stamps on the run is important. In the case of your machine above as well as Treesner's machine the idea of bolting a stamp to the heating devise above is going to be very limiting and slow to allow any changes. If you are just doing the one logo and that is all it would be alright I suppose. All the machines I have, have a slide into place logo or letter set attaching method and the construction I am showing here is what I would like to have if I only had one and was starting from new. I will be back shortly as the dogs need a walk and they don't understand the word LATER it seems.

The drawing is excellent and idea is good. There would be some trouble though perhaps printing in the air where it curls over. You could do it with a lot of supports but better if you can design it out. Just the holes would be OK and sliding the rod through perhaps?

Now that is what I like to see. Though I thought Texas was a a bit over the other side.

Tempting except that I don't have any problems with the thread curling around and such. Possibly if I could do a multi revolver or something along that line might be of interest. A bit along the revolving bobbin holder and revolving from the centre on its side?

Should be able to print something like that ......re the rubber washers you may need smooth leather backing to reduce friction where it touches. With gold embossing foil on the automatic feed they often use a spring as well to set the friction just lightly.

It would help to know where you are located. If in Australia I could send you a few pieces and likewise some others in other parts of the globe may do so as well.

Looks like a fairly good robust machine. I need to know what distance the heating element is away from the edge. You did not show any picture from that angle. The elements normally go right through the block but due to the hole in the middle for attaching the stamp it does not in this case. Is there 2 short elements? Please show a picture from that end. I checked the WUTA site and they have several letter set types and it would be best to know what height the particular letter blocks are in the one you have ordered. I can still go ahead somewhat with a drawing but that height is important to know. Other than that, are you able to tap threads into metal alright and if so do you have a metric set or ....? Would you prefer steel or aluminium construction mostly? The other thing is if you would prefer to have drawings for an engineering shop to do the work? One last thing ...is this for occasional work or every day quick change heavy duty work????

Structurally and aesthetically that looks very good to me as is. The stitching and the finishing all look way more than most would do for this purpose as well IMHO. Congratulations.

Excellent @bikermutt07 . Where there is a will there is a way I always say. Just saying....

Thanks for that Mike. The sort of thing I am thinking of doing for instance is doing a new video showing some of my zip guides in use and putting in a link in the description to the topic in L.W. where they can see discussion and find out some more if they are interested. Let me know if you can see any issues from any direction that I should be aware of firstly if you know or can think of any.

That looks good to go and I am happy to hear your keen to get started again. Keep in mind to check the length of the belt loop section. If it can shorten some it could make the interlocking cutting reduce the waste to near nix. Do you have a clicker press or a method for using cutting dies? That knife shape here in the 19mm ht 3/4" would cost about $70.00au I think and about $20.00 for the other. A clicker press would enable the cut at around 30 secs per if that helps.

I think you quite rightly feel a reservation in the design construction. An axe falling from a failed construction could be at the cost of a toe or worse. Sometimes when you get a construction idea in your head it is difficult to think on ways that are necessary to make it work and still be economically affordable to manufacture. In my opinion stress points are the areas to be concentrated on and I would think about a complete change of design. For instance an upside down T shape cut with a single line external stitch down the front and the other piece folding back over the belt and down to the bottom edge with 2 rivets attaching at the bottom could be worth looking at. For cutting purposes it should be able to interlock each piece and save waste. The stress on the rivets at the back is reduced by the main pressure being supported by the belt firstly. The stitch at the front has little pressure as the forces are on the side and more to the back. Any stitching except at the front join would be only decorative. Hope that makes some sense.

Are we still talking lasers? Exceptin proctology of course.^ Hey where is the Aussie emogie? This will do I guess.

Very excellent work.

Do you have the same machine as this? I doubt it could be bought but some like myself could make it fairly easily and an engineering shop could do it for sure. Design wise it depends on the machine and what type of stamps you want to use as well. My favourite stamp holder is shown in these first 2 pictures and you can see that it uses a dovetail to fit into the spring grabber. This one allows me to use spacers and a couple of 1/4" bolts to tighten up onto the stamp or letter set whichever the case. Back of the holding block showing the dovetail- ront of the holder shown holding a heat tape attached stamp- Another embossing machine I use has a similar dovetail but it gets tighten up with a bolt and is actually a little more trouble to make. If you are using a Kingsley letter set like in this pic below their machines have a wide variety of holders and they are also held in place but a couple of tension springs and a guide strip. This is a single line holder that I use a lot for embossing initials onto the ring boxes I make a lot of. If you want to give me some pictures of your machine and an idea of the variety and type of stamps you want to do I could Cad up a drawing perhaps that may help you better.

Just thought I might show a bit on that subject that you may consider @dikman. On the one I just built I did not want to have too much overkill on the suction as I am doing a lot of thin cardboard cutting so I went with this 130cfm bilge air blower fan and can confirm it works well for me. Note that I have surrounded 3 sides of the box with some 1/4" foam to assist the air to move in the direction I wanted.Not bad at all for around $30.00au https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/381970877031 Here is a picture of it and a couple more that show the plumbing fittings I used. The blower is screwed in under the table and then with some 4" aluminium ducting run outside. I have taken a good video of the suction with a mosquito coil in action and I will try and get the editing done on it some time soon.

@Treesner if you are not fairly mechanically minded I am going to be honest and tell you you got the wrong press I think!! Here in the sellers video you can see one with a slide in one which would be a lot quicker and easier than bolting your stamps in individually. That said... I don't know what stamps you are wanting to use and whether they are all the same size etc. I have a lot of different embossing machines and a lot of different types of stamps etc and although any one of them could do most of what the others do, none of them have all of the best features in the one machine. If I had the machine you have there I would start by using that bolt hole to attach a slide grabber that I could then remove the stamp holding block from easily. The machine with the best grabber is this one in the first picture and the reason I like it best is that the spring piece at the front allows me to slide the stamp block in without having to loosen or tighten any screws. (Screws often get over tightened and get stripped all to often.)Notice that on this one the bottom piece is able to slide in and out if required and can be taken off as well as shown in the next picture. Also note that this bottom plate I have put in 2 screws to enable me to put in whatever cardboard jig to hold the product piece in place that I want. That is one way of getting stamps to be repeatedly in the right place and the next time as well. This picture shows that the bottom plate can be removed and this enables me to use other systems for where I may need more depth for instance. Here I have 3D printed a block that allows me to do a wide variety of embossing s on our product box lids. Another one of my favourite embossing methods I came up with is what I use for stamping my belt lengths. This method uses the heat tape to attach your stamp but I have put the sizes all onto same length steel boxing. With the holding block for it I have placed within it a 1/8" long magnet that holds the size boxes in tightly and with the aid of a pair of pliers I can rip them out hot between sizes and change to the next. SO.....I would think about making a holder that that is easy to slide in and out and encase a magnet. When you get any new stamps attach them to a steel backing and you can just then click them in to place.Remember to allow room to lever the stamp out though. I think that should get you some ideas that could help.

Anyone know?

Am I allowed to post a Leatherworker.net post link into a youtube posting?