RockyAussie

That plastic canvas sound interesting. Could you post a picture of it? What do they call it? Thanks for posting . Brian

So when you stop the bell knife stops as well? I had a very old Frobana that did that with a clutch motor and Note I said the word had. That is not to say that a servo motor can not do it though. The servo on my large sewing machine allows a great range of speed variation. I have heard of people splitting the drives onto 2 servo motors and in time that may be something to consider. I will say that a roller foot will give you better control as my video should show somewhat. The friction of the standard feet do hamper the smooth feed.

This link should take you to one that is relevant. If all is working well the clutch should give you a good controllable feed through. Does your bell knife not run at a speed continuously?

Under this answer there should be a blue link that says You Tube Channel. You should only need to click on that.

I looked them up and from what I think is that yes the strap is 2 pieces joined and edged. The weight should be around 4oz which would be a bit over 1/8" when combined.

The steel feed wheel should only be necessary for firm to hard leathers and there are a few advantages to sticking with the stone as well unless you get a lot of feed slipping problems. A roller foot would be something to get if you have not already. If you check my you tube vids may help there.

Sounds like a good idea.

If its for holding a phone ...have you thought about doing a simple piece across your gusset under the D ring? That buckets in and should make it good for quick access.

OK, this is the best I can do for you this weekend. I have a few more of these bags to cut out yet than I thought.I will try and post some pics of one or two and their various steps as I go on them. For any people interested to see them being made I will post them in a separate "How Do I Do That" post sometime soon. Follow me if you want to be notified. For now I have just grabbed a few pieces to show you the gusset building breakdown in some pictures. This first picture shows what the leather parts of the gussets look like cut out. This second picture here shows all of the components that go into making this gusset.At the top, there is a .3mm cardboard strip that is necessary to use with with many of the exotic leathers due to their stretchy nature. The third piece down shows what that cardboard looks like when positioned over the outer gusset strip. The next one down shows a piece with the croc's edge folded over. To the left is the lining leather that has the top folded over a piece of paper stiffener. Next is a .6mm strawboard stiffener with scribe lies to help with later shaping. Next to this is the same from the other side with some foam padding attached. The last one is croc for the middle part. Here for the moment I have pulled an old one apart to show what it looks stitched together and with the foam and stiffener attached in place. This following pic shows what the lining looks like when it is stuck into place before further assembly. That"s about it for now ....Hope that it makes some sense. Many firmer leathers would not need this level of construction but as I mostly do croc ....that's all I got. LET me know if anyone wants to see the whole bag being made in steps as it is quite time consuming.

Now you got me thinking hard...I have done them but I don't remember doing it to this. I can remember doing the tip shape as it has been refined many times over many years but the back spike I hardly ever have a use for it. I may have drilled it and filed it out or an old friend Jack may have cut it out on this chisel type machine that shaves little slices off a bit at a time. It may have even been there already when I got it.

Hi Dun, I have no idea what name you would call this style of gusset. I think I normally refer to them as bar..s ..turds or something like that. I have quite a few of these bags on order, as always so I will take a few pictures this weekend which may help you some. I normally only make these up once a year or so.

You guys always embarrass me with your clean looking stuff but I am gonna say mine gets into tighter spots ...if you can see the point Ha ha

I doubt whether the bell needs replacing. These chips outs are not all that uncommon. There is a line just before the edge on the bell that makes me thing that the bell was too close to the foot as that happens like that and is murder on the bell if it is too close. I would like to see a picture of the sharpening stone as If it is well used the size will be small and the sharpening is less broad across the bell. If it becomes too angled the feeding becomes more difficult. IMHO whether a machine is new or not if it is not set up right it is not the machines fault. For now here is 1 link that I found that may help- Its not brilliant but is a fair enough to start off with.

AQ few further back pics would be good ...but it does not apear to be all that new so far. The bell is a little too close to the foot. Once you sharpen out those nicks it will be about right though. The feed stone is sitting down too low and should be very nearly touching the bell inside.One turning knob on the left at the front will alow angle changes and on the left side there is an adjustment set up to allow you to move the stone upward. There are a few you tubes out there on how to do these adjustments and I would check them out first. I will look some up and give you some links tomorrow. My dinners ready NOW i'm told.

Alright ...but a wrong set up and sometimes some leather types as well will cause this and you may want them for help at some future time. I would give us a chance to see the other pictures first myself. Brian Did you get a dressing stone stick with it?

Those nicks should sharpen out alright.Just off the top of my head the bell starts at about 2" wide and I normally replace mine when they get down to about 1" or a bit more. I would like to see a few more pictures all the same of the sharpening stone, where you have your foot set to in relation to the blade and the angle of the stone in relation to the bell blade and so on.

The answer to Duns question is in my question. Sorry to be so obscure but out of respect to Niwa I am hesitant to elaborate any further. There are more than one way to achieve this effect and if someone wants to do something similar, I can only say that burnishing and the leather types are not necessarily the only way to come at it.

Clear yet???

Man ...we got a lot in common sept I just turned sixty. I wonder if they think I'm 13 yet??

There is a lot of theory in coming up with that relief line, and some advantages are as follows. 1 - to reduce the waste when pushing down the top mould it helps create a little drag and keep things tight. 2- As the leather is trying to compress everywhere and on particular the corners, the relief gives the leather somewhere else to go beside just sideways and thereby reduces the wrinkles. 3 - It gives a very nice and reliably accurate cut off point to cut and sand to. I did sand the mould pieces a bit but mostly just rubbed the edges very hard with a rounded steel rod in order to achieve maximum smoothness. On large scale pieces a printer may not be the best answer always as the time to print can be very long but can allow a lot of fancy details to be embedded if that is desired. CNC routing/milling can be a better alternative at times. The big advantage with using the cad design start is being able to come back and easily make minuscule changes and corrections in a very quick way. At least the printer can print it again while I am getting other work done. For anyone interested in wet forming leather I recommend looking at a couple of this mans videos. To me it is amazing and I am sure you will be inspired by them. Brian

Check out this post I did awhile back, I think it will give you the answer. I had the same problem.

It does help if when you attach it you set the angle at around 90 degrees. I would generally bring my stitching just over the edges of my pockets to stop them from dog earing. This counts a lot when you get around to burnishing or edge coating. I think that is a fine looking effort all the same. Brian

I think that is very good @Webicons and I think you reduce a lot of your waste than you are at present. You may some of the info in this post I did awhile back of interest. I found I got my waste on these handcuff pouches down to less than 1/4" and if anything I would say the results were better. Also on the top mould having a relief groove just past the cut off point helps the forming. Brian

It may be true but I don't want a hat with this on the back of it