RockyAussie

Missed the keeper being stitched up sorry That's it all now. I hope this can be of some help and please if there is something better to add or comment on feel free to do so. Brain

Just a few more pics More later

Have you got any pictures?

Thanks @bikermutt07 I hope the new owner thinks so as well. Thanks @noobleather Here is the next lot of pics for now

Recently I was asked to make up a Cobra style rifle sling out of some hornback crocodile skin. Not having much of an idea on how these slings work and the measurements and so on, I dug into the forums on LW and could not find enough in any one place to give me what I needed to make one so I have decided to post on here how I went about making this one. I must thank .ABR from Utah...... for his help given in providing some of the measurements. This is a link that shows his post and some of his excellent work is there to be seen. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/80132-photos-of-leather-work/?tab=comments#comment-536112Due to the hornback croc shape and some other size checking I was unable to follow these sizes ABR kindly provided but I believe what I have come up with will work pretty well. PLEASE feel free to add or criticise any part of this you feel could be improved. This first few pictures show the sling that is made here This next picture shows most of the measurements I have used through the making For this post I think the file size may be close to full so .......More a bit later.

Thanks for that Tom. I am surprised that there is not more out there on this method. What is posted on LW though little, is better than I have found elsewhere so far. I hope I can get time to do a few bags and such using this and similar related methods sometime soon. Brian That is what I am thinking and along with a bit of 3d printing to help I think I can come up with some pretty interesting stuff. I am talking to some laser sign people in town here about trials on cutting the leather and should have a few answers over the next couple weeks I think.

All looking great so far. Good thinking on the drawer liner ...I think. Is that the rubbery stuff that has holes through it? Love the edge coat idea.

Now they would be interesting to see some pictures of. Stitchless seems a bit lacking as there are lots of ways to make a product stitchless. I like Holy Poke as you make a hole and poke the other part in. Mmm.... works for me anyway .

Ouch ......That is a scary thought but I guess as a last resort maybe. I spose I'd have to have washing instructions next....Please remove your phone first blah blah

I forgot to say I am calling this my Holy Poke method. If anyone knows what it should be called please advise us.

Thanks Chuck and Frank for that info. What I am wanting to be able to do is along the lines in these pictures below. This is at the very rough prototype stage at the moment and further pieces are to be added to it yet so please overlook the roughness as it has not been hammered etc as yet. As you see by the patterns the numerous holes and cuts that have to be precisely placed makes doing by hand tedious and with a clicker very expensive knife costs. Cleaning the edges in an efficient way may be important. ps. I got bored with stitching and wanted to explore other alternatives looks.

Thanks for that Chuck. What watt size are you running? I am wondering if the size will have a big difference with the charring as well? You are cutting through the low tack transfer tape when you are cutting and thus keeping some of the charring from transferring over? I am thinking of making some pretty intricate stuff that would be impractical to further cut with a knife and so am wondering what methods people have found gives an easy clean up. For instance when I used to colour change shoes, I used a glass bead blaster to etch and clean the shoes first. One little bit of sticky tape is all it took to stop the glass blasting away any areas I did not want blasted. The tape just makes the beads bounce off . Therefore I wonder if the transfer tape left on until after blasting would be an effective manner of char removal. Perhaps some edge sealer can penetrate the charring and keep it fixed? and so on. Brian

Thanks for the input @LatigoAmigo. I guess cleaning up the charring on the edges is something that will have to be solved before I commit to too much expense. I will try and get a bit done somewhere to have a look at it further.

I am seriously thinking that this laser stuff could have some merit in it. I have been doing some prototype production work recently that I believe would probably only be realistic to do with a laser. I am curious to find out if a 40 watt can actually be used to cut 3mm (7to 8oz) with the right software and such or not? @LatigoAmigo That bag looks good and different as well.May I ask if after cutting is there much work in cleaning up the edges before applying edge coat? I mean such as in the crew punch strap holes in your bag and similar. I think that would be an excellent idea. Lets do it.

Thanks again for your kind help there ABR. I really don't have much knowledge in this area as yet.

Thanks YinTx I have a bit more work to do on it yet but will post it all with measurements used etc when done. Customer is a croc farm manager and does a lot of hunting in the wet tropics so that should test the construction techniques to the max. Time will tell. Brian

This part that you mention has me confused and as you have not pictured the disc or that area, I have tried to find what it is you are mentioning. It may be something peculiar to the Cobra machine though. I have taken some pictures of my Cowboy that may help some and I have attached a pdf that does not show any disc but is about the only diagram I could find that shows that area. As Floyd said I think correctly the bent rod needs to be hooked back on to the hinge screw and then the loose screw that lets the mechanism rotate needs to be tightened up. I hope this helps some. Brian 441 parts.pdf

Well it"s not too ugly ...I think so let me know what ya think. I will post in a separate a more full break down of the steps and measurements I used later on. Shown below the strap is just over 44" long out fully.With loops on can go down to 32". Hope that's enough range. Backside of strap shows the nu buck lining and thumb loop set into and stitched down. Chicago screws installed The padding shows here a little better. All ready to test now isolright I reckon.

I would also check that all of the parts around the tension discs that get spread open are not getting caught up and or out of alignment. Was on my Cowboy.

Looks good. Another strap to the other side and a couple stirrups and she should be ready to ride.

Thank you ABR. I will hopefully get 1 made this week and I'll get back with a pic when done (if it is not tooo uglly that is)

They all look good to me. How long do you make the rifle sling straps when they are at full length. I have been asked to make one from the hornback crocodile straps and I think this design shape would work perhaps. Any padding tips would be welcome as well. Brian

Beautiful> I would like one but with oval holes please.

I guess you could take the shaft right through and hose the end into a bearing held into a vice at the base.

I agree with Floyd and have run it straight down for the same reason and have not had any problems.