RockyAussie

Thanks @fredk I would have agreed with you with regards to the thread not catching the top grain once. I was sure that the top grain was stronger and stated so in an earlier post awhile back and was shocked to see some scientific study showed there was virtually no measurable difference between the two. I thought bull..... and split down some leather to get equal thickness and went ahead and broke both pieces looped over some heavy fish scales I have here. Did it a heap of times and could not prove them wrong!!!?. I guess in this case the longer the pieces being joined the stronger it will be but for interest sake I will tie it off and put it to the hanging weight test. I can say it is a lot stronger a join than most would think, and given that it is only snaking back and forth from side to side I think if you did the same over and under up and across it would not be any better. I will get back with some test results over the next couple of days. As for it being an very interesting technique............. I think this mentor might be a Tor- mentor. I just hope that all of that fine bag work above we get to see finished of and posted here.

OK here's the rest. Before laying down and pulling up tight (easier than I thought) I would put some glue on the edges. Contact glue can be warmed up and with a bit of pressing down you would have next to no visible join.I did not glue or press in this example. Pull the end threads tight and presto. Back view shown below Front view I gotta get to work now so please let me know if that helps Brian

Well.....That sucks!!!!. I will have to say that from what I can read there, the author does not really know how its done either. As far as I can make out in the reading it does not say the back would have no visible stitching and the picture provided looks to me that it would have back visible stitching. AT any rate I have below my effort of what it is I think you are trying to do. As I don't do this type of construction normally I have just grabbed a couple of tools and did a little modifying for the purpose. I am sorry if this is leads you off track but if the same end result is achieved should it matter? 1st. I tried the bigger hook in this pick and hook set and found it was better with the lesser hook shown. Next I carefully bent a needle as I had none here that are curved. Broke the tip off so had to bend up a little further. Worked alright. Next I marked a line down the middle to help keep centred and for picture purposes. Here shows the technique and remember only every second hole needs to go through on each side. Next I marked out the joining piece across to keep the pull of stitches in line. Having done the opposite sides holes I did the bottom hole 2 in a row to start of even. Not perfect straight but it'll do for now. I will post more later due to picture loading size restriction.

I believe if your reasonably mechanically minded, that it would be possible to hook up an extraction system and if you get one without an extraction system let me know and we could look at it further. I did touch on this in another post which I will try and find again if I can. I just found one post that covers it a bit..

Is your mentor a sadist? Is there any good reason to be able to achieve doing this method? The threads will have to go straight when going across to tension correctly not on an angle as in your picture...Sorry.

I don't know this machine but would think the parts are likely interchangeable but I have to say it looks quite similar in condition to my first Fortuna and I felt sorry for giving it to the person who took it. They are difficult machines to learn how to use even when new and when the shaft that turns the bell is worn and no longer runs true you have next to no hope and its generally too expensive to fix. If you can see it operating and it can do the job you want then OK but having had ones without a suction device as well I would not go back that way again if I could avoid it. Without suction a common problem with soft leathers is that the skived leather piece sticks to the feed roller and comes back up and then cuts through the leather on top. Too much risk and cost for me. Saddlery and greasy type leathers are not so much of a problem with this as the do not stick so much. If its free then give it a go unless you want it for business.

Nice idea. To date I cut a slice down a fish tank bubbler hose and slip them over but the do come loose sometimes. Thanks for sharing the tip.

Well done Uwe and welcome to the 3d printing world. I know I'm going to see a bigger fancier printer in your workshop pretty soon.

A true craftsman and most excellent sharing of advise. Thanks for sharing.

sgot nothin to do wheather your male or single .....my wife's got no idea neither.. I been thinkin that's why her edging so rough.

What type of 25 needle are you using? A point style I would expect to do that maybe. Tri maybe LR I would not expect. Just a thought.

I agree. I do think the last hole at the tip may be a bit too close though. The belt is very nicely done and a looks great. Most unusual to have 10 adjustment holes but it should be a good seller to ambitious weight watchers I reckon. Keep up the high standard King.

Very good observation Uwe. Thanks for the passing on of some fine knowledge as always. Brain

Well done dikman , I think that looks to be a nice and easy design to cater for a range of different size bullets. I wonder why I don't see the loop idea put into rifle slings with some method to adjust and tie off to suit the bullet.

Anything over $1000 and I would be going with a new one. That means new knives and new bottom roller and no wear and tear etc. Push heavy for the different size spacers when buying though.

I could not say it any better

I was just gunna say in my other post, if you made one it would be dam well done and you just doubled that up. What is the wide keeper loop for ?

Now that"s a thought I could pop a few bullet holders in instead of croc teeth.Ha Ha. Next one maybe Your most welcome ,and I hope we get to see some from you as well. Thanks Tessa I checked out yours and they look great to me. Please feel free to put any helpful details on here that might help others like the thumb hole location and size etc if you would like. I would love to see that Dwight, and thanks for the blessing and I in return ask the same for you. Brian Will have to see how it performs over time but at present the grip with the nu buck and foam inlay is excellent. It would only be possible to stitch the strap area on this as there are some nasty bones that no needle agrees with that I have ever found. I not very concerned about it as the glue I use is the same glue I repaired shoes with for many years and I,ve been making hornback belts for years with it with very little problems. If it were not for the bone problem though I would definitely be stitching the strap.

Just found another one

Yep, that's a 80 watt soldering iron with a tip I've reshaped to go over the rounded shape I want. It is temperature controlled via a light dimmer switch. Should say I been doing it that way for about 25+ years and way before I ever heard about these filituse things or however you say it. Haven't made any croc skin holsters as I don't tend to get much in that style of stuff. Only ever made a couple of leather holsters come to think of it. No laughin here's some pics of one.

Thanks Joon1911, yes if you cut through the bone sections it can break your knife. That is the reason to work around cutting through the leather in between them. I only work with Porosus crocodile that has less bones problems than the rest to deal with. Unfortunately it is the dearest as well. Lucky for me I have thousands of them here and make them up into belts most days.

Thanks for that @motocouture .Don't know if that is available in Oz but I will check it out.

Thanks Rockoboy The thumb strap helps to stop the rifle strap from sliding back when you are walking with it. See the picture below here I have my thumb in the strap there. I did not think much of it until I used it then I completely understood and think it is essential. Many now put a hole right through but I thought that, that may weaken this strap too much. Hi @YinTx I should have made that measurement clearer in my measurement picture. From the wide end, end the first crew punch is 19" down. On the average that should work fine.

roughout leather is what I would call it.