RockyAussie

Looks like it may have been used for doing double row stitching on the uppers. I think it can be used as a single needle as well. An Addler I had could be either single or double needle used and some various widths as well.Here's one off the tube

There is a huge difference in what can be done but whether the extra cost is warranted would depend on the type of leather work you want to do. For a lot of saddlery type work the fixed blades would normally suffice. For many of our products we produce we use 1mm leather split down to .4 or .5mm with often soft leathers and that I believe is not anywhere near possible with a fixed blade. Also band knife splitters have built in sharpening stones and take but a few seconds to sharpen now and again. Below are a few pics of typical pieces that go in my wallets but if you check my you tube channel some of these steps are shown better perhaps.

If I understand this correctly.....What I do is start with the leather piping cover already skived and stuck in place and left in length over long. Start the stitching at least an inch from the end. When I have reached close to the other end I stop the stitch and take it away from the machine. I then cut the piping to the correct length and skive the end to match the meeting side and then finish my stitch on down. It is hard with some leathers to make it fully not be visible but picking the right place to start and finish helps.

Personally I would think the chrome tan better for that job normally but if as you said you want a natural finish you will not get that sort of tan colour. It would be a sort of green/grey and probably last no time at all..

Now will that me look like I'm loosing or gaining weight??

Another thought if you don't like seeing a line as JLS said Just fold the edges instead I guess. That'll give you an exact colour match as well. I used to do all my watch bands that way once. The pictures below shows some ostrich ones I made once. The ones with the watch faces done had to be split down to .3mm and I did have a fairly high fail rate on that.

I have used a cobblers hammer for many years and for the more delicate leathers that are easy to bruise I have glued onto the face of the hammer a piece of firm veg to further protect the job. I have got away so far using one glued on piece for about 5 years now and that is just attached with contact glue. The face of the hammer is about 38mm or 1+1/2"

I guess I will have to console myself with that at least it took you a while..........

WOW ......WOW ....I am in LOVE....What state are you in? I mean not horrified about having a stalker state ...What state of Australia? Was someone in the Singer repair business?

That is just beautiful Mizzy. It looks like you have a whole lot more exciting looking machines in the background waiting for their turn as well. How bout a wider view shot? I'm on the hook now...............

I have an old 29k-13 here which has a hole in the main body very close to the size you have shown. Your showing around 22.48 and mine is 22.8 which could be wear as it has had a lot of use. It takes a very small bobbin about 16.3mm dia. The hook number for it is 8654 which as far as I can make out is the same as a 29k51. I have attached a pdf that may be of help if you dont have it already. 29K51_53_55_56.pdf29K51_53_55_56.pdf

With all this love and attention it's just gotta go well.

Some of those tips that @fredk has linked could be useful. What I have done for many years is use a 60 or 80 watt soldering iron as you can see mentioned and a picture of earlier in this post and with the supplied tips, the one that is screwdriver shaped I hammer it back a bit in a vice and groove it out. For temperature controlling it I have used a light dimmer switch housed into a wooden box as seen in the back of this picture below on the second shelf. Also note the extended workmate I made to help for ironing in belts and a different tip is useful for rounding in the belt tongue holes/crew punch holes etc.

Darned if that doesn't look like a folded edge at the front with edging put on. Good job

By the look of that leather my approach to edging it would be 2 coats on first, then iron smooth and follow by another 1 or 2 finishing coats. When the leather is rough like that to start with it is best to smooth it down with a heated iron then the rest will be fairly easy. DO NOT (experience talking here) iron before applying the edge coat as this can bring contamination oils etc to the surface and it will not hold so well.

No trouble with feet for that one and should likely be a good choice. Takes the same feet as the Singer111W155 and for just $59.00 here's 6 feet to start with. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-111W155-WALKING-FOOT-SET-6-FEET-with-LEFT-RIGHT-EDGE-GUIDE-/391321969217

Yep...

Seen them before but haven't tried them yet. I'll get one and try it. Thanks for sharing.

I use a couple ...for black it is OMAC Lux semi matt OM 357556 which I think may be the same as Giardini maybe, and for colours I mostly use Ares (Italia) S.R.l -AR 6350 which Neutro Denso Lucido which should be the same as Fenice AR 6350 to which I mix in pigments to get whatever colour I want. For the crocs all sorts of bait can work...lawn mowers ...Coca cola....chain saws...

Thanks to my wife's fantastic photography skills and the new light tent I built, I am able to show a few of the 100 croc dress belts I finished off yesterday. Other than the tips which I sanded off to shape I was able to do them with NO sanding due to thin edge and the use of a couple of machines. The second picture shows an edging machine that I use for the belt tips and wallets and such and the next is a you tube link to an edging machine I made for the sides of straps. I was able to feed the keepers through with the same machine and method as well. Note in the small edging machine picture I am showing a brush that I replaced with a piece of aluminium to get a finer more consistent coat.

That is some awesome looking work there and I'd be tempted to put a sign on my car boot that says custom leather work and sandwich that in when I close the boot. That should soften the fold line up and when you get enough orders (probably a couple days) then whack it back into a bag. Hey ...just trying to help

On thin edged products this can work OK but is more difficult to keep the edging from going over the edges. It does take several coats and sanding to build up the rounded bead if going that way on thicker edges. The extra coats of paint are not as strong and long lasting as a rounded off edge with fewer coats. With the costs of labour I think Giardini are making mileage of the fact that with edging machines it is quicker to just build up the paint and save the extra preparation sanding time. For those new to edgecoat edging, I warn not to slick the edge smooth without further sanding before applying the paint as it can peel of in a long strip fairly easily. I don't bother with any slicking at all myself as I want to be sure of maximum adhesion. Lastly thick coats in time with most edge paints crack up a bit and are more noticeable than the thinner ironed in coats. Brian

I don't know this machine or how the mechanism works on this one but normally the tension discs push the rod back when the foot is lowered. Possibly the pin is broken as I would have thought that it must have some way of going right through even if in 2 parts. @Constabulary is normally up on Singers and may know.You may have seen these you tubes but in case not this fellow has loaded a couple that might be of some help.Best of luck

I do use a variety of different methods for applying edge coats and I have found for me, for small product pieces a foam piece trimmed down like in the picture below works very well. The advantages are that by loading the edging up in the foam and wiping the edge off on the egg cup edge it holds plenty enough to not need re dipping constantly but has a broad enough surface to stop from getting the edging from going over the top. I made a video for the tube awhile ago that shows how I use this technique for doing belt edges. Note that the edging can be watered down by up to 10% to help give a better flow if needed.Although I sometimes use a soldering iron that is temperature controlled by a light dimmer switch it is not always necessary as some quick sanding between coats will often work as well.I have also put a few pics up of products I've done using the above method. Here is the video link- Hope that is of some help Brian

Which Cowboy sewing machine are you looking to buy and what sort of items do you want to make??