RockyAussie

Thanks @KingsCountyLeather that price sounds a whole lot better to me. I will give it a test and get back.

OUCH That hurts. To Australia I guess must be a real killer. Any one here in Oz know?

Now that is something different. Never seen that one before and I look forward to seeing your journey as it comes back to life again. Brian

Thanks @bullmoosepaddles. Arnold Schwarzenegger thought one was good enough to buy of the rack when he was down under awhile back. Haven't heard if he had any trouble with loose screws

Thank you for the trouble @bullmoosepaddles Thank you as well @Sonydaze They look like they could be quite useful at times though perhaps a bit slow and cumbersome to use. I just use a crepe rubber sheet and lay the belts over and press down into when I do them up. Indeed as @fredk pointed out they do loosen up due to shrinkage so I re-tighten them again at least a day later and normally get another 1/2 turn tighter. Yeah and I don't use any locktite-glue or whatever. Made thousands of belts over the years and only had 3 maybe 4 say they came loose. They were many years after the sales and I always been happy to replace for free. Fishy customers soon learn they gotta pay more as well.

Gee thanks, I am still curious to see what the Weaver screw clamp is/looks like. Could anyone post a picture please?

c. Mine is a Cowboy though and the reducer is all in a metal box frame so it behaves a bit like a bell. High foot pressure makes it more noticeable.

HI Tom, probably no surprise but I often make up tools to suit a particular purpose. Here below are an example of some of the cheap pliers I drill holes into and bend into weird shapes and so on. I looked up to try and find the weaver screw clamp you referred to and could not find it so in case it could help..... The blue handle pliers work wonders when you need to grasp anthing of a round shape. As you see at the end I have shaped it to be able to push down over the head of a screw to hold but not damage the leather beside it. From left great for holding any small tubular shapes but made to help make it easy to join the melt together belts for some machines. 2. Little tuck in at the tip helps to open up those small 5mm split rings. 3- plastic tube over to stop scratching. 4 Holds crocodile teeth when inserting into caps as well as to squeeze the cap tight. 5. rivet and screw removal and tube holder.

I think a 4mm (3/16") hole would be best as the tongue has a flat back and they tear into a narrow hole more. The crew punch most likely would be best at 4x25mm or 3/16 x 1". I prefer when the strap is going through the buckle that the tongue can swing back enough to not need to stretch the leather any. To be sure I generally get some scrap of the same thickness and fold it over to see. If at 1" there is a visible gap then I would drop it back but if the leather is less than 3mm (1'8") then 20mm or 3/4" will do.

Yes it allows me to do heavy leathers pretty well but on stiff hard stuff I normally go about that by doing it in 2 stages. The roller will allow heavier leather way more so than the standard feet will. On thick leathers it is often necessary to take the bell back away a bit to get the feed to grip better. That can make a big difference.

Here is a link on where I show how the ring boxes are made for this customer. I keep a stock of them here and monogram them almost daily for her.

I have sent you a PM. 95% of the products we make is with crocodile for a variety of croc farms and such but we do use other leathers as well for other people such as the leather ring boxes for this customer https://www.amonie.com.au/collections/leather-boxes/products/light-grey-leather and pouches for the prisons and so on. If you can fill me on the products you want I may be able to help further one way or the other. Brain

I cant say whether it is good or not as I am not sure if the handle would give you the leverage for good embossing into leather. Take into account the voltage difference 110 against 240 if you haven't already. There is a member on here from Adelaide @dikman who is quite helpful and may know someone there he could suggest could help with some training on embossing.

Nice work

Sorry My bad....https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kingsley-Hot-Stamping-Machine-Type-Holder-LOT-fits-a-single-Line-Machine/173132396868?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50543%26meid%3D5560113a07d24188899cb4ad89fe337a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D9%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D253584348622%26itm%3D173132396868&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 I think with the letter sets it will work very well for pressure and definition. I do have a pneumatic one with a timer and all and to be honest it is in storage as it takes too long in use and the transport system for lining up is too slow as well. By hand pressure you can get a feel for what is right pretty quickly and the mucking around and testing to set how many seconds and how much air pressure etc are just a pitb. For what you are wanting I would go with the Kingsley. If you need to do very large numbers of repetitive steps then the one I have I could part with. You are welcome to come up and spend a few hours learning how to do this embossing if you like. Brian

I just had to look .... I have to wonder if this extract above were translated back into Chinese whether it would make any more sense?? I think that the machinery and engineering may have many good points and benefits but without much understanding of the manual as far as the English language goes, I am quite hesitant in buying I am sorry to say. Please take no offence Robin as that is not my intention, it it only to point out the importance of having clear communication with your customers. Your efforts in sales could be vastly improved with a better translation. I would be interested in the SP 168 sidewall stitching machine but I would like to see the manual first and what the costs for the transport would be to Brisbane in Australia. Regards Brian

The stamps look nice and deep and should therefore be good to use.....But the second review there is a worry. 6 letters in the block would not be enough but more the worry of only 1 of each letter for that price. There is many an occasion where you need 2 to sometimes three of the same letter in a name. Have a look in a baby name book. The letter sets I have generally have 3 or more letters of each. I would look for Kingsley letter sets on ebay along the line you would like.There are quite a few. I did see some Kingsley machines pretty cheap as well.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Kingsley-Hot-Foil-Stamping-Machine-with-gold-silver-foil/192529296915?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D50543%26meid%3D5b4415a34463466a90d9b82875b690aa%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D263653689847%26itm%3D192529296915&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982 Match that with this to get any letter holder you could want https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Kingsley-Hot-Foil-Stamping-Machine-with-gold-silver-foil/192529296915?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D50543%26meid%3D5b4415a34463466a90d9b82875b690aa%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D263653689847%26itm%3D192529296915&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982 And here for an example is one of the fonts from Kingsley and look down and you will see a few others quite affordable. Note the 3+letters https://www.ebay.com/itm/KINGSLEY-HOT-FOIL-MACHINE-TYPE-FONT-LETTERS-NEWPORT-MONOGRAM-SET-SORTED/253602297923?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50543%26meid%3Dd6728ff3da8341eb8ccf5c7332fbd94a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D11%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D352346329350%26itm%3D253602297923&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Regards Brian

You mentioned a machine type elsewhere and that company make letter sets in the US as well. I ordered in a set from them last year and they are crap in comparison to the kingsley letter sets. They are very roughly finished and the lead content is so high that just packing them into a container to separate the letters out made my fingers all black. Probably why I am going madder than usual. They are so bad and soft I will not use them.

Why I said be patient

Does the tension work alright on leather? I know I will sound silly for saying it but the thread looks a lot thicker to me than 69 (40 metric) and more like 138 perhaps. Some of these nylon webbings can be very tight and hard and tension problems are not uncommon with the thicker threads.

Do you have letter sets already? The letters in the video by Harry Rogers will not take much, if any heat which is a shame. I am just wondering if a laser might not be a better answer for you at this stage if you don't have a letter set already. Last time I looked you could get a 40 watt laser for just over $500 here in Aus. Maybe try H Leffler and sons in Melbourne as they have a notice board for second hand stuff there or at least they did when I was last there. http://www.lefflerleather.com.au/leffler_contact.htm

I do have a few (5 of different types) but as I am a bit out of the normal market/manufacturing area up here I like to always have some backup and 3 are always on the go. If you care to show me the type of stamping or the variety of uses you need to do I may be able to give you a good solution. For an example the Kingsley machines here pictured are very limited in height and can be useless if you need to emboss anything thicker than about 1 1/2". Lids on boxes for products can be a no go for example. Lack of depth for a product to go back into can also be a problem. How large a stamp do you need to emboss? If you only require a stamp less than 2" then a drill press can give you more room for adjustment than many embossing machines can but a heated block for holding the stamps would need to be sorted. I have previously experimented with this and found my tests promising but haven't really needed to do much more with it do to having other machine alternatives already. If I were to take this a little further I would make a block to hold a 60 or 80 watt soldering iron or just buy the cylinder elements in that wattage and hook it up to a light dimmer switch which I have done at times for some other similar projects as seen in the last picture for ironing in the edging on the croc belts. The heat was not enough for the foil embossing above due to me just using a heat gun to warm the block and guessing incorrectly it was hot enough. Note in the middle of picture in the background a box made to hold the light dimmer switch. Although I have been using these for many years the risks of doing it are all yours if you do. I have every fancy micro cut out switch in the system and although they have never been set off doing this I would still make sure they were in operation in case.

Nice work Gary. WW wow wow

I do agree somewhat but as Morrie always reminded me it is a knife show NOT a sheath show and he always won when he entered them anyway. They both should stand out but the knife should be the centre piece in a Knife show.

@pitersek I think this shows a well matched knife and sheath with potential for more excellent combinations in the future. Sadly it takes me back to a close friend of mine for many years who aside from jewellery enjoyed making knives. In Adelaide here in Australia they have a large once a year knife show and for many years Maurice (Morrie) would travel up the coast to my place, and together we would set about making a knife pouch or two for the next up coming show. I would ask Morrie how did the knife show go and he'd always reply "pretty good" and smile as always. He died back in 2013 and not until I was at his funeral did I find out that he won the award for the "Art knife" prise for many many years in a row. He always chipped me for being too fussy and as the years went by, in 2012 he stopped entering in order for other entrants to win.I understand they now have a Maurice McCarthy award there. He was a true friend and I still miss him. The picture following shows a few of the projects we worked on together. I hope this may inspire you on further.