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RockyAussie

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  1. RockyAussie
    Very tidy looking work there.
  2. RockyAussie
    For many years I have found Wmc Jackson ( Peter Jackson) to be very helpful. O3-94173131. http://www.wmcjackson.com.au/www/home/
  3. RockyAussie
    Funny that....I said that to me missus ....I'm learnin bout cooking tonight.
  4. RockyAussie
    I have a similar edging machine and use it nearly every day. I find I get better results and more consistent application by getting rid of the brush and making up a aluminium strip to replace it with as in below pics. This also makes the cleaning up a breeze as you need only wipe it of with a damp paper and it does not need to be taken off then either.
  5. RockyAussie
    Its actually pretty easy except the edges often work better with a leather covering such as in the top edge here. Ignore the missus....she'll expect you to shave and all next if your not careful. You'll even be expected to know how to make your own coffee
  6. RockyAussie
    Hi @Dun That is the first time I have done that and being machine stitched I didn't think of the fold showing the bobbin side thread until I had it done. Had to unpick back to where it gets hidden about the fold and restitch. Live and learn. Re the feet ... I think I might make up some more interesting shapes like arc's and stuff. What do you reckon? Thanks for the compliment but as I normally do crocodile that has to be made to very high standards, these are really more practice pieces. The last 3 croc ones we made for a retail customer sold in only 2 weeks at $3000+au each. As you would expect heaps more orders. The hardest part is working out how to make the leather ones at an affordable cost, example here would have to sell for near $700au and that does seem to slow the average buyer down a bit. Unless they know our product quality already that is. Ha Ha ...I been wondering bout that.. but.......... Thankfully LW helps make that come closer a whole lot quicker. Thank you, we try.... a hundred pictures to start with help too.
  7. RockyAussie
    I have to agree. I still have some of the Landis rough rounder and skiving machinery and never use them these days.They are very good if you want to cut hard sole leather but pretty rough for most leatherwork IMHO. For cutting knife sheaths I usually cut to shape one side first then attach the top side oversize and then trim it to size. A follow up sand and its done. Here a tube video I did awhile back and theres a couple more might pay to check out as well-
  8. RockyAussie
    Hi Bugstruck. Thanks for the compliment. The leather I used on the straps and binding is called Jungle and is an oil tan retan from East Coast Leather in Brisbane Australia. It comes in about 2.5mm and I split it to suit. The feet or the pads on the bottom you could see more of in an earlier post I did on this tote done into a patchwork style. Here is the link- I'm told there may be a short Video in the instagram pics so here a link to it as well. https://www.instagram.com/wildharryaustralia/ Please ignore the bums in there....my daughter in law has been busy looking after the postings on that . Lookin for a broader audience I am told.....
  9. RockyAussie
    Holly crrr...ap I just reread this and when I said A4 , I meant to say A3. I hope no one started something on that.. Sorry. With the lining until I did a few I left one end unstitched for a couple of inches and trial fitted it - marked the spot and then stitched it all the way up.
  10. RockyAussie
    Thanks for that. Amazing what you can do with these digital cameras and 100 odd shots.
  11. RockyAussie
    Thanks Wedgetail, The outer pattern's pretty simple really just a standard A3 sheet with 40 mm squares cut out of the bottom corners. Stitch up the edges 8mm in and then again 8mm across the bottom corners and bingo. Patterning and putting in the zip stuff and it gets a whole lot my interesting. I hope it does mooooove soon or at least before one of me cows gets to see it
  12. RockyAussie
    Hi Gary, the lining is upholstery leather except for the inner pockets and the foam padding acts as a supple stiffner and is from Sekisui and is called Softlon 3002 which is 2mm thick.
  13. RockyAussie
    Thanks now I just need a customer that wants it Mooooor @YinTx
  14. RockyAussie
    What Joe said ....
  15. RockyAussie
    Here is a couple more to show the leather lining and lay out
  16. RockyAussie
    Here is a bit of this weeks effort showing how a nice hair on hide becomes a tote. Some purse accessories to come I guess...
  17. RockyAussie
    Well.....Thems fighten words I reckon.
  18. RockyAussie
    Thanks for the offer Richard .......Shame that roads like 6+ hours drive . I make a lot of machinery and stuff for my self but that bobbin hook would pull me up I reckon. If you want to get away from that rat race any time I think I could move one of this bull tits along or squeeze an acre out somewhere. BTW Brian is my name ,Wild Harry was a wild dog we had and named the web business after. Wife's call.... what can you say?
  19. RockyAussie
    That just blows me away. Fantastic effort..........wish you were a neighbour. I got twelve around my fence line and mostly like tits on a bull generally.
  20. RockyAussie
    I just found an interesting bit on Pinterest that shows a bit on this. Link attached. It may contradict what I've said but I still would not be sure. Thought it worth a look anyway-http://www.theprojectlady.com/2016/07/industrial-singer-31-15-sewing-machine_7.html
  21. RockyAussie
    I did have one machine that did that action and it may have been a Singer post machine I think. The action of that mechanism clearly is nothing to do with releasing the thread for corner turning etc but would appear to be a preparation step for the thread return spring action. As Harry said it comes into play as the needle enters the material and how that would coincide with lifting the foot totally escapes me. I would say that in most leather stitching cases it would not have to come into action but perhaps in some situations Singer thought it would. If it works for you without it I would think that is one bit less of wear and tear to worry about.
  22. RockyAussie
    Whether you use rivets or screw posts be sure to use a piece of leather inside about 2mm thick or more and about 2" or 50mm wide to distribute the pull over a broader area. Probably goes with out mentioning but just thought best to mention in case. I would just do a piece to cover across both in one piece. You may want to skive the edges of it a little.
  23. RockyAussie
    I have an Adler that size and another brand that size for binding. You mentioned aside from tool bags saddle bags and I have to advise this 69 is good for medium hanbags and wallets and so on but NOT for saddle bags without a lot of compromises. A bigger bobbin with the thicker thread is something to not overlook too quickly as well. I would consider if going to a CB 3200 to perhaps consider a CB 4500 as that will allow give you even higher lift and can be with a few alterations able to get down to 3oz as well.I may be wrong but I think they both share the same size needle which at times has the disadvantage of being a bit long and can sometimes wander a little, though I have not had much problem with that myself. Note: in this earlier post where I am stitching up a linesman's pouch and the thickness is about 1/2" plus And in this next post I am using the same machine to stitch some 1.5mm (3oz) upholstery leather with some machine changes. The $1300 for your application would be better put to a heavier machine capability I think.
  24. RockyAussie
    garment leather can be quite difficult to skive at first and I will say 2 things that I believe important- 1 make sure it has an extractor/suction to pull the leather away from being caught up on the stone. (Stone is way better on the soft fine skiving) 2. A roller foot helps to eliminate the drag when feeding through. If it grabs at all it is needing a sharpen. Couple more- After sharpening with the stone get a bit of mellow veg and very slowly feed it through as this acts a bit like a strop and helps it run through more smoothly. I have an old Fortuna and a FAV and I do like the Fortuna the best.Here is another post that have a couple of videos in it that may help.
  25. RockyAussie
    Very well done and I am happy to see that unlike some doing this you have shown that you do NOT need to waste heaps of leather to be trimmed off and do V cuts and so on. 20% fill is a bit less than I would have thought needed but there you go.
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