RockyAussie

If you haven't already you could try @Darren Brosowski he is in Goulburn Vic and you might find how to contact him on face book if you check Able sewing. Between him and Steve @Singermania Cowboy sewing machines Australia I think you should get some help.

This manual mentioned in this post may help - The second link shows a tension check spring and this can be adjusted to be tighter or looser and the throw means the distance that this spring can move. This distance is normally set to let the thread to start going slack just as the needle is about to enter the leather. As Wiz said I would try a bigger needle and make sure it is facing the right way as often if the needle is wrongly orientated it will miss stitch and I think we have all been guilty of putting the needle in with the slot facing the wrong way more than we would care to admit. https://www.singeronline.com/3115.html

Could you say what town in Oz you are ? There may be someone close that you could talk to.

Yes the stitching has come in too close. This can happen quite easily if using a foot set that does not have a shape to keep from coming in too close. It can be done but takes very careful attention and is more annoying when you get most done well but one bit climbs up. Looks worse. Beading/piping in the middle will help but the right shape foot is more the issue. I am assuming perhaps incorrectly that you are using a sewing machine. Doing it by hand would take a lot of skill I think.

You can use both but they recommend semi dense for hand application is better and dense is preferable with machinery but also can use either.

Looks like its running in reverse This earlier posting might be of help.

Sometimes you can get a piping effect by just using leather folded over which could be skived in from the edges to get a more pronounced bead look on the edge but I generally use either some 2mm round lace or 3mm plastic tube piping as in this following link - http://www.theshanngroup.com/product/hollow-plastic-piping/ When I want to turn it in as shown in the picture I cut the piping on an angle to taper it off and leave the leather longer to use that to be tucked in. Whether that leather extra part needs to be skived depends on the thickness of the leather of the bag and the thickness of the leather used to cover the piping. I normally have it split down to .5 to .6mm for most jobs but this depends also on the piping feet for the sewing machine and what thickness it works best on.

Well that just Adlers my mind.....I'll be Pfaffed...Just Juki ng with ya. Ha Ha What is the Inverse necky on the side? Do they have an owl with its head facing backward as a logo?

Sorry @Dunluce I misunderstood what you were trying to do. I thought you were trying to figger out how to get the piping to attach to the piping as I have done in this first picture of a back pack I made. As you see it goes all the way around on the front and gusset. What would look best is how the piping finishes short and the leather is turned in, as in this next picture following. Here you just tuck it in and keep stitching through to the end then trim it up inside.

Looks like it may have been used for doing double row stitching on the uppers. I think it can be used as a single needle as well. An Addler I had could be either single or double needle used and some various widths as well.Here's one off the tube

There is a huge difference in what can be done but whether the extra cost is warranted would depend on the type of leather work you want to do. For a lot of saddlery type work the fixed blades would normally suffice. For many of our products we produce we use 1mm leather split down to .4 or .5mm with often soft leathers and that I believe is not anywhere near possible with a fixed blade. Also band knife splitters have built in sharpening stones and take but a few seconds to sharpen now and again. Below are a few pics of typical pieces that go in my wallets but if you check my you tube channel some of these steps are shown better perhaps.

If I understand this correctly.....What I do is start with the leather piping cover already skived and stuck in place and left in length over long. Start the stitching at least an inch from the end. When I have reached close to the other end I stop the stitch and take it away from the machine. I then cut the piping to the correct length and skive the end to match the meeting side and then finish my stitch on down. It is hard with some leathers to make it fully not be visible but picking the right place to start and finish helps.

Personally I would think the chrome tan better for that job normally but if as you said you want a natural finish you will not get that sort of tan colour. It would be a sort of green/grey and probably last no time at all..

Now will that me look like I'm loosing or gaining weight??

Another thought if you don't like seeing a line as JLS said Just fold the edges instead I guess. That'll give you an exact colour match as well. I used to do all my watch bands that way once. The pictures below shows some ostrich ones I made once. The ones with the watch faces done had to be split down to .3mm and I did have a fairly high fail rate on that.

I have used a cobblers hammer for many years and for the more delicate leathers that are easy to bruise I have glued onto the face of the hammer a piece of firm veg to further protect the job. I have got away so far using one glued on piece for about 5 years now and that is just attached with contact glue. The face of the hammer is about 38mm or 1+1/2"

I guess I will have to console myself with that at least it took you a while..........

WOW ......WOW ....I am in LOVE....What state are you in? I mean not horrified about having a stalker state ...What state of Australia? Was someone in the Singer repair business?

That is just beautiful Mizzy. It looks like you have a whole lot more exciting looking machines in the background waiting for their turn as well. How bout a wider view shot? I'm on the hook now...............

I have an old 29k-13 here which has a hole in the main body very close to the size you have shown. Your showing around 22.48 and mine is 22.8 which could be wear as it has had a lot of use. It takes a very small bobbin about 16.3mm dia. The hook number for it is 8654 which as far as I can make out is the same as a 29k51. I have attached a pdf that may be of help if you dont have it already. 29K51_53_55_56.pdf29K51_53_55_56.pdf

With all this love and attention it's just gotta go well.

Some of those tips that @fredk has linked could be useful. What I have done for many years is use a 60 or 80 watt soldering iron as you can see mentioned and a picture of earlier in this post and with the supplied tips, the one that is screwdriver shaped I hammer it back a bit in a vice and groove it out. For temperature controlling it I have used a light dimmer switch housed into a wooden box as seen in the back of this picture below on the second shelf. Also note the extended workmate I made to help for ironing in belts and a different tip is useful for rounding in the belt tongue holes/crew punch holes etc.

Darned if that doesn't look like a folded edge at the front with edging put on. Good job

By the look of that leather my approach to edging it would be 2 coats on first, then iron smooth and follow by another 1 or 2 finishing coats. When the leather is rough like that to start with it is best to smooth it down with a heated iron then the rest will be fairly easy. DO NOT (experience talking here) iron before applying the edge coat as this can bring contamination oils etc to the surface and it will not hold so well.

No trouble with feet for that one and should likely be a good choice. Takes the same feet as the Singer111W155 and for just $59.00 here's 6 feet to start with. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-111W155-WALKING-FOOT-SET-6-FEET-with-LEFT-RIGHT-EDGE-GUIDE-/391321969217