RockyAussie

I got it ...I think

Hep that's the one I reckon. Now ...not that I would need to use it often I guess....how do I get that into my computer to use again???? Thanks @JD62

Where is the emojie with a dripping salivating mouth????

Thank you. With crocodile often elbows and the like get very wobbly and sometimes a little hard to make use of but this is one product we can get away with a fair bit as you will see. The first step is to sort through the scrap and find bits big enough for the pattern. Next step is to do a first cut a bit oversize and the easy way of course is with a clicker press as shown here. Once the bits have all been cut we then go onto split them down a bit thinner This is then followed by a skive around the edges to improve the look And now they are ready to be glued down which we do by spraying on a contact glue. These pieces are then carefully attached onto a pre sprayed interfacing material. this assists in getting the wobbles to sit a bit flatter. Now we go on to second cut these pieces and get a way more uniform size to work on further with. After the second cutting is all done we draw an outline of the bag shape and proceed to lay out the pieces to get the look we like. Finding a complimentary colour for the strips is then sorted out. With some luck here I have not gone over the file size loading restriction and I will load more tomorrow. B.T.W. Most leathers dont need all this first and second cutting procedure its just that I mostly work with crocodile so please excuse. Brian

Hey Gary, we have quite a large variety of them that we generally get in from Japan from a wholesaler. They come from different places with all sorts of names but over your side, Ohio Travel bag call them handle loops if that helps. I would get a copy of their online catalogue as they have a large range of stuff and not bad looking quality.

I believe that would be correct but I think it may also have a heater that transfers up the shaft to get a better embossing as well. Nice if it has a few other wheels as well.

Thanks B.Bob.

A picture would help Dwight but at a guess I'd say you first need to break away all of that probably poly urethane sole and clean it up with a wire brush. Next put a leather randing around the edge to cover up where the other sole came up too. Put on a mid sole say 1/8 -8oz or so thick and get some cobblers tacks long enough to clinch down into the mid sole after gluing it in place. These need to be hammered down onto a steel last normally. Then glue your sole down onto that midsole and sand it all up level with your randing. Often a thin sock liner (insole) would be put inside to make sure the tacks are not going to rub the foot. If it has a midsole already then the barge glue should work alright. Brian

Done a few patchwork bags lately and thought I'd share a little of the stages of making with you all. Might help give you some ideas what to do with those bags of scrap you been wondering what to do with. I will post more pictures over the next few days showing one of the bags as it progresses along. If you check my instagram there is a little video footage of the making as well. https://www.instagram.com/p/BgDdzHLnzct/?taken-by=wildharryaustralia Note there a 5 I think little videos in the one post and you may have to click the picture as it gets to each part to make it play. To start with here are a few pics that show what the later making pictures will be about. The first 3 pics are the type of bag construction we have just started to make a few of. The next few pictures are the new diagonal style we have just developed and that is what the following making pics will be looking at. That's all it for tonight. Brian

At a quick check over....Very good video work and excellent narration. I would love to have that confidence with speaking on my humble video"s. I expect to see many more of your fine efforts coming up.

If you are getting feet marks you may have the foot tension too high and that can lead to your layers shifting and squirming around somewhat. Lifting the foot a little as you go can help but will slow it down as well. I understand that the 227R is a cylinder machine and am wondering what you mean by saying it having a post bed? A couple of pictures of the machine and the job would help I think. Brian

Just found this old post looking for a reply to a question on getting zippers to sit in straight. We find it very helpful for that purpose as well so I thought I'd give it a bump.

I would suspect that the veg is firmer and the feed more positive than on the more softer harness. A little less foot tension may help or perhaps you will need to open the stitch length more on the harness.

That happens a lot if the bobbin gets caught up. Thread could be badly wound on. Sometimes the top thread could get snagged as well. If the tension still looks fine either side it is probably something else. Picture would help. Brian

The 205-64 is needle and bottom feed, and has the great advantage of being able to use a roller foot as well easily if required. For many bag makers this is often better than a walking foot machine as it will allow the feet into tighter spaces like the gussets and such.

I think both charts are helpful but I would have thought that the (Tkt) sizes in the second column as shown in the chart that @Wizcrafts is referring to could be taken as being the metric sizes?? I only bother to point this out as the chart above does not have show all of the common needle sizes. For instance above it says for metric 40 to use a 110/18, but does not mention as in the other chart the 100/16 needles which I would more commonly use for that thread size. Same thing with the 19/120 needle size for the 30m thread etc. Often different leather/materials behave differently with one needle and being aware of close alternative sizes is important to know I think.

All good points mentioned above. I use a point tool a bit like an awl to poke a good mark into where I want the stitch to turn at the tip and this makes you learn to get it right every time. With practice you should be able to start stretching or condensing your stitches as you get close to that point.

I don't know that machine so I would ask that question on the sewing machine section as a few there I'm sure will know better. The step i refer to is the edge where the leather joins. Little as it may seem, it can make miss stitching quite a common problem.

I think the where your seam is finishing and where your presser feet come down are not working right. If this is your walking foot cylinder with the wobbly dog foot then that may not be helping. On a flat piece of leather probably no problem but with that step and perhaps how you hold it may have to change. That step is trying to push the leather away in toward the machine and and this allows the needle to flex in that direction and then the hook misses the loop. Thicker needle should help a bit as it would resist flexing more but I think a reduction in pressure of your outer presser foot would help as well. Try sticking a thin strip next to the join step and see if that stops the miss.

Thanks Harry. I think that, that is what I am doing. I hope to make a start on some next week sometime and I will post some pics straight after. Brian

And a hefty sewing machine and ...and...6 hours drive mate and you can practice and ponder on all sorts of machinery.

They put a crease line on both edges of a belt strap at the same time. Look down in the valleys and you will see a raise on either side. The device is set for various widths of straps to run through.

Nice looking work there Wedgetail.

Thanks for that @JMixx. It is always interesting to see how different mediums can be employed into a variety of constructions. PLEASE don't hush, as great ideas often come from these sort of posts and the people willing to share. Brian

That looks to capture the idea well. Internally without a cover may look a bit rough for some jobs but as drawn here it would be easy to work out the collar length needed etc. I am totally self taught and I should get around to getting some books like that as the terminology at least could be of help at times. Thanks for the compliment. Brian