RockyAussie

All good points mentioned above. I use a point tool a bit like an awl to poke a good mark into where I want the stitch to turn at the tip and this makes you learn to get it right every time. With practice you should be able to start stretching or condensing your stitches as you get close to that point.

I don't know that machine so I would ask that question on the sewing machine section as a few there I'm sure will know better. The step i refer to is the edge where the leather joins. Little as it may seem, it can make miss stitching quite a common problem.

I think the where your seam is finishing and where your presser feet come down are not working right. If this is your walking foot cylinder with the wobbly dog foot then that may not be helping. On a flat piece of leather probably no problem but with that step and perhaps how you hold it may have to change. That step is trying to push the leather away in toward the machine and and this allows the needle to flex in that direction and then the hook misses the loop. Thicker needle should help a bit as it would resist flexing more but I think a reduction in pressure of your outer presser foot would help as well. Try sticking a thin strip next to the join step and see if that stops the miss.

Thanks Harry. I think that, that is what I am doing. I hope to make a start on some next week sometime and I will post some pics straight after. Brian

And a hefty sewing machine and ...and...6 hours drive mate and you can practice and ponder on all sorts of machinery.

They put a crease line on both edges of a belt strap at the same time. Look down in the valleys and you will see a raise on either side. The device is set for various widths of straps to run through.

Nice looking work there Wedgetail.

Thanks for that @JMixx. It is always interesting to see how different mediums can be employed into a variety of constructions. PLEASE don't hush, as great ideas often come from these sort of posts and the people willing to share. Brian

That looks to capture the idea well. Internally without a cover may look a bit rough for some jobs but as drawn here it would be easy to work out the collar length needed etc. I am totally self taught and I should get around to getting some books like that as the terminology at least could be of help at times. Thanks for the compliment. Brian

That plastic canvas sound interesting. Could you post a picture of it? What do they call it? Thanks for posting . Brian

So when you stop the bell knife stops as well? I had a very old Frobana that did that with a clutch motor and Note I said the word had. That is not to say that a servo motor can not do it though. The servo on my large sewing machine allows a great range of speed variation. I have heard of people splitting the drives onto 2 servo motors and in time that may be something to consider. I will say that a roller foot will give you better control as my video should show somewhat. The friction of the standard feet do hamper the smooth feed.

This link should take you to one that is relevant. If all is working well the clutch should give you a good controllable feed through. Does your bell knife not run at a speed continuously?

Under this answer there should be a blue link that says You Tube Channel. You should only need to click on that.

I looked them up and from what I think is that yes the strap is 2 pieces joined and edged. The weight should be around 4oz which would be a bit over 1/8" when combined.

The steel feed wheel should only be necessary for firm to hard leathers and there are a few advantages to sticking with the stone as well unless you get a lot of feed slipping problems. A roller foot would be something to get if you have not already. If you check my you tube vids may help there.

Sounds like a good idea.

If its for holding a phone ...have you thought about doing a simple piece across your gusset under the D ring? That buckets in and should make it good for quick access.

OK, this is the best I can do for you this weekend. I have a few more of these bags to cut out yet than I thought.I will try and post some pics of one or two and their various steps as I go on them. For any people interested to see them being made I will post them in a separate "How Do I Do That" post sometime soon. Follow me if you want to be notified. For now I have just grabbed a few pieces to show you the gusset building breakdown in some pictures. This first picture shows what the leather parts of the gussets look like cut out. This second picture here shows all of the components that go into making this gusset.At the top, there is a .3mm cardboard strip that is necessary to use with with many of the exotic leathers due to their stretchy nature. The third piece down shows what that cardboard looks like when positioned over the outer gusset strip. The next one down shows a piece with the croc's edge folded over. To the left is the lining leather that has the top folded over a piece of paper stiffener. Next is a .6mm strawboard stiffener with scribe lies to help with later shaping. Next to this is the same from the other side with some foam padding attached. The last one is croc for the middle part. Here for the moment I have pulled an old one apart to show what it looks stitched together and with the foam and stiffener attached in place. This following pic shows what the lining looks like when it is stuck into place before further assembly. That"s about it for now ....Hope that it makes some sense. Many firmer leathers would not need this level of construction but as I mostly do croc ....that's all I got. LET me know if anyone wants to see the whole bag being made in steps as it is quite time consuming.

Now you got me thinking hard...I have done them but I don't remember doing it to this. I can remember doing the tip shape as it has been refined many times over many years but the back spike I hardly ever have a use for it. I may have drilled it and filed it out or an old friend Jack may have cut it out on this chisel type machine that shaves little slices off a bit at a time. It may have even been there already when I got it.

Hi Dun, I have no idea what name you would call this style of gusset. I think I normally refer to them as bar..s ..turds or something like that. I have quite a few of these bags on order, as always so I will take a few pictures this weekend which may help you some. I normally only make these up once a year or so.

You guys always embarrass me with your clean looking stuff but I am gonna say mine gets into tighter spots ...if you can see the point Ha ha

I doubt whether the bell needs replacing. These chips outs are not all that uncommon. There is a line just before the edge on the bell that makes me thing that the bell was too close to the foot as that happens like that and is murder on the bell if it is too close. I would like to see a picture of the sharpening stone as If it is well used the size will be small and the sharpening is less broad across the bell. If it becomes too angled the feeding becomes more difficult. IMHO whether a machine is new or not if it is not set up right it is not the machines fault. For now here is 1 link that I found that may help- Its not brilliant but is a fair enough to start off with.

AQ few further back pics would be good ...but it does not apear to be all that new so far. The bell is a little too close to the foot. Once you sharpen out those nicks it will be about right though. The feed stone is sitting down too low and should be very nearly touching the bell inside.One turning knob on the left at the front will alow angle changes and on the left side there is an adjustment set up to allow you to move the stone upward. There are a few you tubes out there on how to do these adjustments and I would check them out first. I will look some up and give you some links tomorrow. My dinners ready NOW i'm told.

Alright ...but a wrong set up and sometimes some leather types as well will cause this and you may want them for help at some future time. I would give us a chance to see the other pictures first myself. Brian Did you get a dressing stone stick with it?