RockyAussie

Ok I did a test for you of the above feet supplied by Ewe and the pictures show the results. The top strap would need to be more than 2mm thick or youd need to sand some off the bottom edge of the foot to go any thinner. The distance from the edge is 1/8" or 3mm if you like. The centre/front foot fitted straight on no problem but I did have to grind out the slot a whisker on the back foot but that is more than likely my machine a bit. Metal is hard and the quality is good. If this is what you are needing let me know if you have any trouble getting one there. Brian

What type of foot are you looking for or perhaps I should ask what do you want the foot to do specifically? Is this picture the type of thing you mean? Regards Brian

Hi Tia, Not knowing what type of range of products you are wanting to make I can only guess. Call me on 49342555 if you'd like to narrow it down a bit. A very common versatile machine that can do a very wide range of work.....is the Pfaff 335 or the Adler69 or many of their clones. I have both and and use both most days and I can get them to run a 20 size thread (138) if I want to but normally stick with around 40 and 60 for most work. Check my web site and I would say around 80% + of the product you see there would use these machines. I will attach a picture to show some of the sort of work where this type of machine is most useful as in stitching the small gussets in these bags. Here is a link of a Cowboy/HIGHTEX 335 clone video that may help a little. Note I have a 441 as well. Regards Brian

Strap could end up a bit less than 3/8" but that may be ok. I assume you would try and use the the full 2.5oz kid without splitting or skiving so watch the tape and your lining is not too thick.

Here is an earlier topic that shows a bit on the folder subject . http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/73224-leather-strap-folding-machine/ Here is a very nice folder that is pretty much the bees knees if ya got the bickies.https://campbell-randall.com/product/model-star-3000 With regards to the elastic You should find examples in dance shoes and in particular ballroom dance shoes for women. Some have just fed the buckle tongue right through the elastic and attached to the shoe upper and some have a leather strip through the buckle and sandwich the elastic between that piece then stitch the elastic to the upper. From memory the elastic unstretched is about 1/2 to 3/4" long. The backseam tape is usually very thin if I remember but neither above is in the width you want. I checked the site and could not find any in the right width for making a 10 mm (3/8") strap. You would be needing a 9mm tape if you were doing a normal folded strap so I had a quick look on the net and found this http://www.textilesleon.com/en/catalogue/adhesive-and-reinforcement-tapes/ Half way down the first page you should see a range of colours at 9mm wide. Sorry I cant help much more at the moment as I am drowning in Christmas orders. Brian

By folded I mean that the strap folds in from the edges to the middle. Old trick is to make over long to start and put a tack in the end after it has been glued up fully. Carefully with index finger and thumb whilst holding the other end you can get slide them down the strap and close it up. It does take some practice and a folder is generally less of a frustration. For higher quality a tape around 8mm in this case is attached in before or during the folding.Not sure where you would get the tape where you are but over here shoe repair suppliers normally have them. ( square buckles are kinder to the leather wear than the rounded shape ones). Also elastic in the strap that holds the buckle can help with wear as it allows the strap to expand and contract with out over stretching the attachment. Brian

Did you get a Manuel???? The diagrams and descriptions would make it a lot easier to understand and I would think best to understand what to adjust and why before adjusting something wrong and end up not knowing how to get back. Here is a video that may help but I would be reading and understanding the Manuel as well.

I am thinking that the thickness of your straps is a bit thin for that method but I don't know your lining thickness so cant be sure. I mostly only used folded straps when I made them and then lined them in with about 2oz. If you are not using a clicker press knife it will be easier to make the top strap up to width first then attach to a lining that is cut wider (about 1/8" all around then carefully trim up to that after attaching and stitching. A small pair of sharp scissors works well for this also. This is the same procedure whether the strap is folded or not. Trying to cut through both pieces together on a 1/4" to 3/8" strap will be very difficult to get it to stay where you want it while cutting. Most straps tend to break where they go through the buckle in time. Brian

Welcome fellow Aussie. Plenty of good help down that way and great suppliers right on your doorstep. Brian

That will explain why I have been able to use either size in mine... it does not have an ejector spring in it. I had not seen an ejector spring in the Juki or Cowboy parts lists so I just didn't know they should have one. I guess I never get up any sort of serious speed with mine so as long as it keeps on stitching good for now I will keep it in mind if I ever need to get it up a bit faster. Thanks Wiz

There are a few very knowledgeable sewing machine people on this site and experience has shown that they tend to give their advise back more so, when the questions are asked in the Leather Sewing machines section. I would repost it there and see how you go. I have a 441 clone but it can take either long or short bobbins. Brian

IF you happen to lift the foot and the tension discs release (early?) it can happen that the thread tension return spring can come into play and pull the thread up. Personally I have found no problems with keeping the tension tight while lifting the foot and turning. In the past I did. Brian

This sounds like a promising potential solution. If you are lifting the foot when turning the corner I would be tempted to also check that the rod that opens the tension discs is operating as you would like. I have often shortened mine (on other machines) to give me more room not to loose tension when I am lifting the foot. I reckon my foot just cant always lift the foot just that little safe bit to turn so I'm just going to cheat a little bit. Brian

The edge coat method would alleviate quite a few of the folding issues I'd say but to do well will take longer. As long as they are happy to pay ...$$. and the bigger the challenge, the better your skills will be the reward at the end. Hey...did I say that...? I do wonder just how many of us do charge enough for this type of work??? Sometimes I charge thousands and not really want the work and they just keep happily coming on back and sometimes to the bone $ and they still want to bargain for less... Still I keep learning.

That's not so bad.....a little bit of strategic padding and stiffener before lining and I'd say you'd have it about right. Brian

Yes nubuck is veg tanned and I don't remember seeing any chrome tanned nubuck. I prefer the nubuck in that application but it can be a bit harder to get a small logo impression with out a laser application in my own experience.The nubuck holds in place nicer and breathes better against the skin. Brian

Just my 2c ... If you have already a CB4500 I would think about a smaller size diameter cylinder arm than the CB227r. Getting around tight gussets and such can be a big advantage.Even stitching a wallet as above all the way around can be quite a challenge on a large dia machine. Brian

Thanks for the links @Leatherbaron. I normally pay around $100au for one of the sets. Regards Brian

Just curious ....have you checked out the Chek Hong tannery. We get a lot of skins sent to us from over there but I have never been there myself. Another really good tannery is Heng Long Leather and we get some skins sent from there as well. Both do a beautiful job of tanning Croc and delve into product making as well I believe. Regards Brian

Now that I can see as a way of making the moola and having some fun as well myself. Heaps of green wood on my place to hack up as well.

Would love to be able to help on that ....quite like it myself. If I find it I will let you know. I would have thought Ohio Travel would have had something close. Oh and thanks for the pics on the snaps.... just shows ya where there's the will there is always a way.

Looks pretty good... Well done!

Come on now ....you know I'd look so good on you ....

Tale of a tail ..... Looks very well done. Would like to see the clip better. With the edge coat it can stick to itself in hot weather if left in prolonged contact. I found it best to give a good wax polish when finished after a days drying time. Brian

Hey Alex, What I did for a Frobana sole stitcher I had, was to tap in a post for a simple pair of singer tension discs into the top of the machine. I then ran the big spool down onto the floor behind the machine to one side a bit. This worked very well and gave me better control of the tension particularly on nylon type threads. Beats the hell out of rewinding the threads at least. Brian That is a very nice looking 2c worth I have got to say.