RockyAussie

Just check that while the bobbin is set up on the machine that you get an even pulling feel on the bobbin thread as you pull it out. If you get a feeling of snagging meaning loose and tight then you may have grit on the bobbin shaft or the bobbin case or the bobbin may have some damage. Also along with the points constabulary mentioned make sure the thread back at the cone is coming of without going loose and tight as that is also a common problem.

I think that looks alright but I would put the front support back half way between the two ends in order to have better leg room while sitting.Brian

2oz leather is only .8mm thick. The thread of 138 if measured is near .4mm. Double that for the knot = .8mm. The thicker leather will be a fair bit easier for you dial in to get close to middle. The thinner bobbin thread would also help a lot unless your foot/ timing is out in some way. As Wiz says above your leather should not be pulling together and should want to sit down flat.

Thanks for that input Darren. What are the limitations on running the DPx17 needle system? I am interested as other than a patcher I don't know any other machine that can get into as small as the toe of a shoe and keep going. If you do bring one in at reasonable landed cost I could do a full on video review on what it can do as far as bag making etc goes and maybe the manufactures and Steve could help a bit on that. I know a lot of repairers could be interested as well. Brian

Looks real nice and well saved.

Sorry I disappeared last night on you. My wife got back with the groceries and managed to lock the keys in the car when she got out of it. Many hours later we saved the meat and ice cream etc. As Constabulary said this could be a timing issue and probably its best to let the experts look into it. Hope to hear it all sorts out alright.Brian

Hey Ryan, I am no sewing machine expert and I usually work in metric sizes and missed that a bit earlier in the post. The thickness you are trying to sew with that size thread is a bit extreme. I would be trying a thinner thread for the bobbin if that was alright. If you were up at 5oz (2mm) leather you might have more luck but the 138 (20m) thread knotting into the middle on 2-3oz may be a big ask. With your foot pressure ...Test that it lifts smoothly by lifting them by hand from the feet upward. If there is a jumpy feeling you may need to try more oiling or cleaning up the shaft. Also make sure both feet come down onto the plate with similar pressure when fully down meaning that they are both fully extending down. The bobbin will be very loose to take the thickness you are trying and can take a fair bit to get right. I keep a couple of cases to not have to adjust them when I do get them set for a thread thickness. Hope that is some help until some more expert chips in. Brian

When you pull the loop does it feed out of the bobbin and the bobbin spins or pull down from the top? I have never had a bobbin do this at slow speed myself.

I hate to sound silly but can you confirm that , that is the bobbin thread showing in the loop there? Brian

Your welcome ....I just hope you can get it to work out alright.

That is a nice looking job panku82. I have never used olive oil as you have and can only assume you have done previously and are comfortable with using it. I can only think that the combination mix you have come up with is able to react with the eco flo. I don't know but I think the only solution is to make up a few sample bits and get them to the same stage and then try going through a few cleaners and see which will give you the best dry feeling finish to try again, with a different finish of course. I would check your local shoe repair shops for a product for cleaning shoes before they are colour changed. It would normally be caller preparer in one brand or another. I can not think of any thing else I'm sorry. Brian

Is the dye penetrating into the leather at all? Have you dyed this leather previously successfully.? Is the dye holding in place well and is it just your sealing coats playing up?

I would be very surprised if you could get around that and not run into a lot of problems in one pass. Back and gusset should be no problem, cylinder or post machine but once past that I think you would need both or a different machine with a movable arm perhaps. If you can get a bag along that shape you could try standing a rod or pipe about 2" round up in a vice and then try seeing if you can get it to go all the way around remembering you have to have foot pressure on top most of the way around. I have thought about trying a sole sidewall stitcher for shoes for this but am still doing my homework on that as yet. I would look at their videos first. Things I have to look into are the needle/thread range and the lack of thickness height claimed (6mm). I would have thought more was possible. The following link should make it clearer. I have a friend in town that has a similar machine and I will have to see if I can do a trial with him on something similar. Brian http://www.robinindustry.com/product/395.html

Thanks Eric. Truth is if it wasn't simple I probably couldn't done it. For those who would like to see more of it and how it works here is a link to the post and there video that shows it in action and a pdf file with all the measurements and stuff to make it. @SonderingSusan I get my knives made up here in OZ to whatever shape I want. I normally send a thin cardboard cut out of the shape I want and it gets made up. The knife here made by Tony would cost about $35.00 Aud (around $25.00 US) if that helps. The knife shown is as would be used on a clicker press but for a few dollars more it can be made as a hand punch version. I have attached a few pictures to help understand better what I am trying to say. This 1st pic shows how small this zip pull is and the knife used to cut it as above. This second one shows how the same 3/4" or 20mm steel knifing can be done as a hand punch tool as well. This one is to show what the hand punch looks like closer up... and note it is used for cutting the ends of the bracelet straps in the picture. This hand punch is used due to the various width and boney nature of this part of the crocodile skin and being quicker to achieve the cut than in a clicker press. Hope this helps a little more. Brian Ha Ha ....Maybe one day if they start up a Manufacturing Tips section. I don't think this is viewed as Leather work quite. BTW I would love to see that section a lot. Brian

Wow ...that's going back a bit to find. Thank you and I hope it comes in useful.

May I ask if you are thinking that you will be able to go right around the gusset with this post machine or are you thinking at crossing over part way with a cylinder machine as well? Regards Brian

@Rockoboy yes mostly it is like working with timber and sands nicely and I just finish of with tripoli polish and a rag wheel. I make a lot of our slickers from them as well and they work as well or better I think than bone. Thank you. Remember to use a good mask and look after your lungs if you decide to give it a go.

Arm first is my advise....they are way more versatile.

I had just the same problem awhile back and decided to go with cow horn. Not the best picture I'm sorry but should give you the general idea. Lovely work BTW

Just check that you are getting enough foot pressure down. If you have been mostly doing fabrics the foot pressure may be lighter than what that leather needs. If the leather is veg I would expect to see some at least light pressure marks on your sample piece. Just look and see if the leather comes up a tad when the needle is on its way out ....if it does your knots will form on the bottom.

I think the lack off throat clearance for that sort of work let alone the price value should be a no go.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/441-walking-foot-sewing-machine-leather-kydex-/152843756069

I would consider this machine to be a good in between machine. Can do pretty heavy but fairly light as well and has a good narrowed cylinder edge that would allow tighter gussets and such than the bigger machines. Needle not over long and thus less needle deflection problems as well. http://www.solar-leather.com/cowboy-cb341/ I don't see it mentioned much and I'm not sure why? The price looks bloody good to me as well.... Only goes to 138 thread it says though.

NO VIDEO needed this time UWE ....please....I guess it would get a lot of sharing around though