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shoepatcher

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Everything posted by shoepatcher

  1. Nice job. Electrolysis on the rusty parts? glenn
  2. With the castors raising up the machine, it may be shaky. Another reason to remove the castors and replace with short fat bolts. glenn
  3. One of the biggest problem with cylinder arm machines mounted on tables with cut outs under them is arm clearance. The pedestal stand cures some of those problems but!! First, I have never liked the metal pedestal stands that they mount so many machines on. The castors raise the machine up to high for it to be comfortable when using the foot pedals. Second, the pedestal arm is to far back on the stand. You are leaning over to sew things way more than you should. The pedestal should be 4" closer to the sewer on the base. Third, when they mount them, the base of the machine should come right up to the left edge of the table top. Otherwise, you loose arm space for sewing on the arm. I mounted my DA669 on an off the arm table myself. Set it up like I wanted it. No complaints. With thing to note: With the machine mounted on an off the arm table, you may want to get a slide on flat table attachment for those items you will be sewing that need a table around the arm.
  4. 69 Adler's no longer made and finding them is not that easy> i would get the 373 if it is at a good price. It can be made into a binder. glenn
  5. The 69-373 will probably have 4 motion drop feed. The 69-73 usually have skip feed in the the feed dog does not drop down like it does in the 373. That said, you can still make a binder out of it. You will need the throat plate, feed dog, and binder feet to convert the machine. I believe Kwok Hing has these parts. They are in Singapore. If you buy genuine Adler parts, they will not be cheap.
  6. Buy the long arm over the short arm. 4500 vs. 3500. Trust me. You will later regret not buying the long arm!!! glenn
  7. I thought 29D shoepatchers were made in Germany correct Constabulary? glenn
  8. Ok We need the length of the arm in cm. We need to see the size f the hook. That will tell us a lot as to subclass and model. This one has a lot of decals on it so it is an early one. Not an 18 class. Throat plate indicates it is a rotary shuttle in it, not a stationary shuttle. dampen the base of the machine abut 4-5 inches above the table and below the opening on the head and see if any numbers appear? they will be faint if still there. glenn
  9. No brackets different. SAme as 867,868,869. glenn
  10. C, Great job. Electrolysis? glenn
  11. Will not be cheap glenn
  12. Nice 20!! your 30-1 Adler looks like everything is there including the tension device for the bobbin winder. Good luck rebuilding it. Let me know if I can help. We want to see pics as you progress. glenn
  13. Looks like a 7B. 7 class machine. Singer had Consew or Seiko make machines for them. in the late 1980's and early 1990's. glenn
  14. correct C. Never pull main shaft unless it is bent! is that an Adler 20 or 120? glenn
  15. Trash treasure, I have rebuilt ones in worse shape than that. The head needs to be disassembled, derusted, primed and repainted. All parts taken out and derusted, cleaned and polished. I have a lot of parts to the older 30 class machines. As Constabulary will tell you, Electrolysis or Evaporust will do the job. They are worth saving. Only shoepatcher better than Adler is Claes. The stand will clean up nicely and I have bolts and nuts for the stands as well. Will take time but a fun project. Take lost of pics when disassembling. You even have the tension assembly below the bobbin winder and the wooden pitman arm. Pics of the aback of the stand and head please. glenn
  16. Ok green one form the 1950's and early 1960's . Weld piece first and then lets see. send pics please. glenn
  17. looks like the long arm version of the 133K8. rare machine! glenn
  18. the singer book say it uses Singer Needle number # 2210-71. That is needle system #2220 which I have no idea what that one is. Go with Bob's suggestion. glenn
  19. Adler part is a little different as to specs and roller size. Color of your machine. Black ones were the earliest ones and had a lot of Singer parts in common since Adler copied Singer. May fit, may not. I would weld your parts first and then grind the welds for better fitting. Should be able to weld it. glenn
  20. A normal 226 Consew uses a G bobbin. If yours is 31-32mm in dia., that is an xxl size from an Adler 867. glenn
  21. I have a 669 DA. Fabulous machine. It will handle 9-10mm leather depending on how hard it is. However, the biggest needle you can put in it is a #150. I went to work on the bobbin basket and it will now handle up to a #180 needle. DA in their infinite wisdom used the same hook off a DA 367. Again, maximum #150 needle. I have since altered another 669 hook for a friend of mine. We both use #160 needles. The #140 and #150 in my opinion is not the best for #138 thread since you get needle deflection with some of the things we sew. Not anymore!! Best machine in its class period. However, not cheap. glenn
  22. You missing the hook or the bobbin? The hook was smaller than a Singer small bobbin patcher. I have one. I took a Singer shuttle and ground the hook down until it fit in the machine being very careful to not damage or reduce the actual hook on the shuttle. I was then able to used singer bobbins. If you have and original shuttle, send me the specs on the round opening of the shuttle and the height of the opening. I may have a bobbin that will fit. Also, send me pics of the machine. Original parts are non existent. glenn
  23. The color of the machine will normally tell you where it was made. All the ones coming out of China are the white ones. However, some white ones came out of Germany. All the other colors came out of Germany. glenn
  24. 1245 will have the bigger bobbin. Also, foot lift should be a little higher on the Pfaff. Color of Pfaff? Pfaff should be better machine overall and is smoother than the Adler! glenn
  25. Feet are not equalized as to the walk. Put the foot walk on medium lift in the back of machine. Should be a wing nut and slot on it. Loosen the two screws on top and the far left on top of the shaft. That should drop the center foot all the way to throat plate. By hand , turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle is just entering the feed dog which should be even with the throat plate. Tighten the 2 screws on top. Check lift of inner foot and then lift of out foot. Should be close to equal now for each foot. glenn
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