shoepatcher

The whole list in general. I have different machines over the years where I could have used the early list. It contained screws, nuts, roller, tapered pins, taps, etc. Anyone with a copy of this book would be golden on older machines. Plus having the book would be great if a screw is no longer made where you might be able to find another manufacturer say Juki who makes a screw like that. Unbelievable reference guide. glenn

Greg Thanks for the info. I have this one as well. We still look and hope I guess. glenn

Weaver Leather has a very good 205 Adler clone. I believe the Bob at Toledo Sewing and Alexander at Solar Leather are not longer carrying the 205 clones. They sell the Juki 441 clones. As good as the clones are, still not quite as good as the original. I have an original Adler 205 with all the toys. The clones are still very good machines. They will do binding but that means different feet, feed dog, throat plate. Those parts can be purchased from Kwok Hing. However, this for a regular binder. A synchronized bind is a different type of binder where the binder walks with each stitch of the feed dog. That will not be cheap whoever builds it. As to the actual binder, I suggest you contact Tennessee Attachment. Contact Tennessee Attachment direct and ask them these questions. They make good binders. Atlanta Attachment makes very good binders as well but are more expensive. Either binding company will require you to send samples of what you are going to bind as well as samples of the binding itself. I have done this a few time so I know how it works. PM me if you have any more questions. glenn

Yetibelle, I have that one copied but no specs on the screws! Just pics and numbers. Singer published a large book on the early screws with specs because they sent me a 2 page fax copy of Screws #122 and #129 in about 1997. It came from Singer at their parts company which was down in Tennessee at the time. I know the book existed but never been able to get a copy. I would kill to have the book to run copy's from. It covered screws, nuts, rollers, taps and other items as well as life sizes sketches of each screw, nut, etc. Diameters and screw pitches on each screw. Greg, I wish you could help me find this book. I have looked for over 20 years with little or no luck. Did you know that when the plant in Kilbowie, Scotland was closed in early 1985, all machinery was sold at a 3 day auction. I saw a copy of the original auction flyer at the library in Clydebank, Scotland in 2006 when I was on vacation there. They sold over 800 screw making machines, some over 100 years old. A lot of them were Brown & Sharpe. They made a lot of screws there, let me tell you. Graham Forsythe at the ISMAC has never seen the book either. I wish our readers and members would help in this search. I am all out of options. You can produce screws if you have the specs. Saves time without having to back engineer the specs on the screw. glenn

Either a double toe outside presser foot or a left toe outside presser foot. Pfaff feet and their generics come in a couple of sizes as to the inner presser foot. Check out Kwok Hing. They make some real narrow feet for the 545 and the 1245. glenn

Jimi , I have certain ones from Singer. I am looking for the one that begins with screw #1. That screw was produced I believe beginning in about 1855 and then on we go. Later screw books started with #1 but continued up to screw #20000. I have the later books just not the early ones.

Better steel and tolerances on the Taiwan machine. They are better made but double the price???? glenn

Generic feet for Pfaff will work well and our much cheaper than genuine. glenn

there is only a couple of types of hydraulic oil. Tractor Supply cares hydraulic oil and we have used it in our clickers. glenn.

These machines will sew #138 all day. You must open up the feed dog hole a little bit. I sewed #138 on mine for years in hockey gear with a #23 needle.. They were the best machine in their class for decades. I now have an DA669 and that is the new generation. Great machine. glenn

Parts for a Consew 229 will work on this machine since the Consew is a copy of this machine. The 168W101 is a post version of the 111W153, 154 or 155. I rebui9lt 4 of these in the 1980'2, early 1990's. glenn

Use the right twist on the left needle. It will work better./ glenn

Well done Uwe!!!

oh yeah. been there. glenn

Send us a few pics of the needle and hook. The busing or housing where the hook goes in could be worn. We need pics to better help you and her. glenn

Pics of the two needs side by side. Also sizes of the two needles? glenn

Should be a tension spring and two screws. The screws should be different from each other. glenn

The dial wheel on top lets you set the high amount of the walk in the feet. Original Adler 467's did not have a dial on top for adjusting the height of the walk. glenn

Very very nice. glenn

I would keep the Pfaff1245. I have had two of them. great machines. The 1245 is smoother than a Juki 563 because I have had one of those as well. The 1245 was the smoothest machine in its class vs. Juki Lu-563, Adler 267-373, singer 111, Juki 1508. Yes, the parts are mote expensive but how often do you break parts on the machine? glenn

I agree with Hockeymender. Pfaff is a great machine and very smooth. glenn

No the 268 Adler is a post machine. The 267-273 is the double needle version. The old Minerva plant in the Czech republic is where DA machines are assembled. They have a parts plant in Romania. Germany is the warehouse and world headquarters.

That hook can be salvaged. If not, buy a new one. Hirose are very good aftermarket hooks. glenn

I would take the hook out and buff and polish the hook and then show us some pics. unless the tip is broken off or is gotten short, I normally can be salvaged. glenn

What back ordered parts if may ask?? glenn