Stetson912

Well depending on what you are using the slots for, it may be a good idea to punch some small holes at the end anyways to prevent tearing. If you have a small enough edge to get around that corner then that's easiest. If not, a fine bladed knife like a scalpel or exact that's real sharp can bevel out the tighter spots. Without holes punched, I'm thinking you might be able to just edge each side like normal almost. If anything g else, the exactoscalpel trick would work too

Angelus is very pigment heavy. More concentrated than most other dyes. As djole mentioned, angelus direct has all the colors you could want and I think they do have a dark navy. Their reducer is good for diluting their dye too, but you can also use isopropyl or denatured alcohol.

Peter main has a book on coloring leather. He uses dye diluted in isopropyl alcohol I think. Making it darker I don't know about. It makes sense mixing with black. But if it isn't working right I can't comment why. I don't know squat about color theory etc. Fiebings also has acrylic dyed in a lot of colors. Maybe there is something there that would work for you. You should be able to use a brush to paint withdyed, I don't see why you couldnt.

What kind of glue are you using? Contact cement should dry and get tacky before you stick the pieces together. I use wildwood because I can get it easy, but barge, masters, etc.. the same rule applies. Apply the glue to both surfaces and allow to get tacky. It shouldn't be wet but still stick to your fingers a little. Then stick together. Sometimes 2 coats helps too. As for the white glue like leatherweld, you just apply and stick. Any squeeze out can be cleaned up quick with a damp cloth. If by chance some glue gets on your edge, you can try sanding the edge with high grit sandpaper to remove the glue.

Ooo, never tried it. Maybe I will try it one day

Have you tried diluting the dye before using it? Or maybe just buffing it a lot. I think the diluting will cut down the pigment concentration and keep it from rubbing off so much. You'll still need to buff it but maybe not as much.

What kind of horween did you get? I used the tumbled Essex and it was nice

Mutt has the answers. A hard dense surface for punching with something to protect your tools on to like mutt mentioned A roller cutter will help with the stretch. Anything that had downward cutting or chopping pressure instead of more lateral or slicing cutting. Use multiple passes when cutting thicker stuff. Nothing wrong with that. Strait edges are your friend as well.

I love your style lol

That's some stout leather. It would be good for knife shesths or holsters if you do that sort of work.

Very well executed.

The two are fairly similar, just FYI. I like and use both. But the principals and methods are much the same. I wouldn't rush out to get it untill you see where Dons gets ya. @JLSleather I wouldn't recommend any of these to someone with more experience doing it. I think the information provided would already have been aquired and be superfluous to an experienced floral pattern drawer who knows the correct way to ouine and construct a pattern or someone with considerable artistic ability. I have neither so I need them crutches haha!

I'd sa y nsaddke soap is fine. I wouldn't worry much about the ph. Saddle soap has been around forever. I'm not sure but o wouldn't think all glycerine soap.is pH neutral. The regular bar is just fine. Just use a good rinse and conditioner afterwards

Yeah, I wouldn't think that's a great idea. I think Gary's way would be better. alcohol would make jerky out of it

@GatoGordo, other resources haven't been mentioned. I assume you are looking for introductory basic fundamental type knowledge. There is a book by Pete gorrell called "floral pattern drawing for the artistically impaired". It's a fairly good book but doesn't focus necessary on Sheridan. A real nice publication comes from our very own hidepounder aka Bob park (no wait, flip that,) called "creating Western floral designs" it is a nice book. Focused more on Sheridan. His method, Pete's method, and Dons method are all similar but have their own flairs to them. Might be worth a look to ya.

They are emailed one a day for however many days it was (4 I think) So just save the email. It's just a little more info on what's in his ebook. Just with a little more detail. They aren't extensive bY any means, or tasks exactly to complete. Just supplemental info. I liked.how he structured the process and explained things and I liked the demonstrations/examples he gave in it. It helped me see how things were put together. But, I'm sure that can be subjective Everyone learns differently. It's not a fit for all but I enjoyed it personally. But, it still won't help so eobe with two left hands(me) draw any better hahaha! Guess I should practice

I thought it was pretty good and worth the $20. The mininlessons are spread out over 4 or 5 days. But it gives a good overview of how to design tooling patterns.

I musta searched wrong. I didn't see this Thanks !

@Uwe, I thought it would be too light duty for holsters and such. I'm looking for something for smaller items and hand bags. Well, particularly hand bags. So that I might be able to reduce the time invested in some projects. @Albob I will most likely need to do the same, however the picture on the add shows it stitching leather. So it may already be a servo. Heck, even hand cranking (you can do that right) is still faster than my hand stitching haha. I just am clueless when it comes to machines and I don't want to get something to do the wrong job. And this may tide me over until I'm able to afford a 441 type machine. I just have been keeping an eye out and $425 seems fair.

Thanks! I'll be researching it. It's ok... I ain't can Grammer neither

So, I found an ad for a singer 111-151 for sale with motor and table and such for $425. I'm considering buying it as I've heard they are decent machines. My question is, what are it's capabilities? I'm very ignorant with sewing machines and I don't want to get something that's hard to use or wonlt fit the bill ect. Any information will help. And I'll try to find info myself. . I just won't know what I'm looking at haha. Thanks!

That's a good reference. I haven't heard of DS before. Inkscape requires you to save copies of your imaging. And it only saves what is on your specified page in inkscape. Same for printing too.

Sorry to hear that, these are beautiful though. Nice to have apiece to remember the braider by. I'm sorry I do not know anybody off hand.

Ha! Leaving.. I meant lacing!

HOLY SHEATH! HAHA looks good!