kgg

That was interesting as to what an old Landis 16 can do. Pure punching power. kgg

I think you have a Singer 111w 153 machine according to one of your previous posts. Go to your manual page 14 it will explain how to adjust the bobbin tension. If you don't have a manual I have attached a pdf. of the manual as well as better / clearer images of those pages from that manual. Also here is a link for a needle to thread size chart: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html A #22 and #23 needle are for V138 in thinner items or with V92 in thicker materials. You would probably have to move to a #24 for thicker materials with V138 thread. kgg 111w152.pdf 111w152.pdf

A couple of basic questions: i) what size of thread is the new thread? Often times thread from the same manufacturer can have slight variations from batch to batch or comes from a different factory so it is important to check tensions for the top and in the bobbin thread. If you changed to a Chinese made thread all bets are off. I've even seen where they run out of thread while loading the spool and just tied the two ends together to complete the spool. ii) what size of needle are you using? If the size of the hole that the needle makes is to large for the size of thread being used it will cause the bobbin thread to come to the surface. iii) did you do a drop test to help with setting the bobbin tension? iv) are you sure you threaded the top thread correctly? Sometimes when you are in hurry or tired it can happen that you missed something. How I re-thread the top thread is I cut the old thread off close to the top spool guide and tie the ends of the old to the new thread. Then I remove the old thread from the eye of the needle and pull the old thread out from the needle end. That way the new thread follows the threading path of the old thread. kgg

The Juki LU-1508 is a different series of machine with 7 variants then the Juki DNU-1541 series which has 3 variants. Both series look very similar but the main visual difference is the bed size and weight. Bed size : LU-1508 series bed is 517mm long versus the 1541 series being 477mm long Weight: LU-1508 series weights vary depending on the variant between 42.5 kg (~94 lbs) and 48kg(~106 lbs) while the DNU-1541 series eights depending on the variant between 36.5 kg (~79 lbs) to 42.5 (~94 lbs) kgg

I think the cylinder arm Juki Ls-1341 or a clone is probably as close to a "one trick pony" as you are going to get. Add a table attachment and you sort of got a flatbed machine. I turned my Kobe LS-1341 into a binding machine. I do a fair bit of binding. When it comes to binding you can use the expensive 90 degree style of binding attachments and they well allow for doing binding around tighter corners. For my situation as I had flatbed machines before I got a cylinder I wanted to be able to use the same binding attachments that I use on the Juki 1181N or the 1541S and use them on the LS-1341 clone or the TSC-441 clone. So to that end I designed up some attachments and printed them to allow for this. There is also quite a bit of difference cost wise between the standard inline and the 90 degree binding attachments, $100 versus $20 per tape size. If you are planning on visiting a vendor call them a couple of days before hand to set up a time and tell them what machines you are interested in so they can set one up for you to test drive. If they don't or can't set a machine up for you then they maybe they are just selling you an untested "fresh off the boat machine". If they are selling "fresh off the boat machines" you probably can get the same / similar machine with that same level of service from a lot of online vendors. Here is some photo's of older versions of what I came up for binding using standard inline binding attachments for my LS-1341 (first three photo's) and TSC-441 clones. kgg

Think of the "S" version as cheap insurance. The cost difference between the 1541 and the 1541"S" is about $100. The safety clutch when it kicks in protects a lot of internal parts from getting damaged. Depending on how badly you fool up usually it is just a matter of resetting the safety and you are sewing again. Without the safety clutch timing issues could be the least of your worries should a problem occur. As a side note my Juki DNU -1541"S" hates items less then 5mm thick and much prefers thicker items with V92 thread as a minimum top and bobbin thread size. Since you are doing bags have you considered looking at a Class 341/ 1341 machine like a Juki LS-1341 or clone coupled with a table top attachment? kgg

No, the length of the 16x231 needles is 33.9mm with a shank diameter of 1.63mm while the length of the 135 x 16 or the 135x17 is 38.9mm and the diameter of the shank is 2mm. This machine is not going to be able to sew gun holsters or belts. It probably will only be able to sew very thin leather. kgg

I personally only use Schmetz needles in any of my machines. I've never had any issues with that brand. kgg

Good needles, good thread, good bobbins and oil. In my opinion, the only validate reasons to use a different size of top thread then whats in the bobbin are: i) Top side thread appearance. Doing this results in the strength of the seam being reduced to that of the smaller sized thread in the bobbin. ii) Using a thread that exceeds the max thread rating of the machine. If you have to use a smaller thread in the bobbin because of bobbin head space clearances you are using the wrong class of machine to do the work. No. Yes, you will get more of the smaller size thread on the bobbin but the amount difference is going to be small. Remember these machines are heavy and have a tendency of tipping the nose forward. The head alone is going to be about 120 lbs so getting it placed on the stand and bolts in place really needs at least two people and make sure the wheels are locked / blocked so the stand doesn't move away from you. kgg

Yes changing the motor from a clutch motor, which I'm assuming yours has from the comment "goes like spit", to a servo motor is easy. Basically you unbolt the old motor from the table and almost always it is a straight install of the new motor using the same bolts. The problem is the weight of the those old clutch motors. I would suggest removing the sewing machine from the table and turn the table upside down then unbolt and remove the old motor. Your back will thank you. The cost of a decent servo motor will be about $150 to $250 CAD and a 550 watt should be plenty for your machine. kgg

Simple answer is No. The patchers were never meant to sew with such heavy thread. If you want to use V277 or V346 thread you are looking at a Class 441 motor driven machine similar to the Cowboy 4500 or Cobra Class 4 or a a one armed bandit like Cowboy Outlaw, Tippmann Boss, Weaver Cub. kgg

I think that is a wise decision. I think going with a Juki would be probably a good choice particularly since access to accessories and replacement parts is easy and are priced reasonably. kgg

Some of the rebadged machines actually had the original manufacturers identification in the bottom of the casing. I don't know of any rebadged machines out their today but I haven't looked. Most clones are made in China or Taiwan these days. Even with the Juki machines not all models are made in Japan as I have a Juki DNU-1541S made in Japan and my Juki DU 1181N is made in China. As far as I'm concerned here is a difference in quality. The Juki DNU-1541S, Juki LS-1341 and the Juki TSC-441 are still made for now in Japan. Also some models are made in Vietnam. Seiko's are also is still made in Japan. I do know that all clones are not created equal. The casings maybe a bit rougher some made with Chineseism metal but the problem is some don't use the original style of bobbin mechanisms and the quality of other internal parts can be less then. A couple years back a member was having problems with his 1541 clone bobbin and bobbin case mechanism and when we compared his photo's to my Juki Dnu-1541S they were completely different. Just like the parts in the Sailrite portable walking foot sewing machines are generally less then hence the price difference between the Sailrite at $1500 CAD and the clones at $600 CAD. They have to cut corners somewhere. Dealers bad mouthing other dealers machines is like the pot calling the kettle black. I would ask an independent repair person as to what he generally sees as problem machines. The only advice I can really give about the clones is deal with a dealer brand name or clone that you think can supply the best after market service. kgg

@toxo Looks to be in good shape, price seems in line with what a good used one would cost at about 45 percent that of a new one on this side of the pond. However I would probably checkout some of the clone dealers like Tysew, Typical or Highlead you never know what they may have. kgg

I think if you can afford a new Juki LS-1341 you will be pleased however if you need the smaller gauge nose then you would need to go to the LS-1342 which would also give you the additional vertical stroke adjustment for going over thick seams. Here is a link to the Juki LS- 1340 series so you can compare the models in that series. ( https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/admin/pdata/filedata/332/ls1340.pdf ) Then there are the clones which are less costly. kgg

This a Seiko design. They were market in North America by Consew as the 206RB and the Singer 531 same machine just a different badges. kgg

Juki machines overall are excellent often copied but the quality like everything else comes at a price. The price difference can be substantial, an example would be a Juki TSC-441 will set you back about 10 K CAD versus a clone costing about $4000 CAD. On the used market the Juki's are easier to sell and will command a higher price then a similar clone in similar condition. Parts and accessories generally are easier to find at reasonable prices. kgg

This what I think I know of your Singer 531B-8BL probably built around mid 1990's were rebadged Seiko's STH 8BL and sold by Consew as 206 RB, Singer 531-8bl and possibly Chikon CK-8BL( http://www.chikon.com.tw/ck-8bl.htm ). The front head assembly (needle area) look awfully close to that of a Juki LU-563 but different reverse / forward stitching mechanisms to my mind. There is a couple of manuals which may help. kgg Consew_206RB_Operating_Instructions.pdf SINGER_5318BL.pdf

You are in the used sewing machine market as even a one arm bandit like a Tippmann Boss will probably run $1500 CAD or so with rate of exchange and shipping. The next questions: i) How thick of leather are you planning on sewing including seams? ii) What size of tread are you planning on using, size wise? I think you will be disappointed investing in a Sailrite LSZ-1 clone. Have you checked with places that sell leather, do industrial sewing machine repairs? kgg

Be aware that the Omega portable walking foot is nowhere near the quality of an industrial sewing and the internal parts are not going to be that of the Sailrite portable walking foot machines. The portable walking foot machines were designed to sew sail cloth and are more of a domestic sewing machine with a walking foot rather then a industrial sewing machine. You will find as the thickness of the item being sewn increases the stitch length will decrease, the bobbin is that of a class 15 domestic sewing machine bobbin, presser feet are very aggressive. feed dog is very aggressive, only presser feet and feed dogs made for the portable sewing machines will fit and it can only handle V92 thread, which is one size up from domestic V69 thread. If this going to be your only machine I would strongly suggest you look at other options if you want to sew leather. What is your budget as there maybe other options like a one armed bandit? kgg

I wouldn't bother with purchasing this machine particularly since it does not have reverse and it has a clutch motor. Learning to use a clutch motor has for most a steep learning curve. Upgrading the motor to a servo motor will set you back another $150 to $200. I would suggest looking for something like a Juki LU-563 or a Consew 206rb. What part of Canada are you in? Someone maybe able to suggest a dealer near your location. kgg

I re-sized your photo to get a little better look at the speed reducer. It appears from the photo that the wick goes to the bearing for the lever that actuates the motor. I would carefully remove the speed reducer / lever mechanism from the table. That way you could better see how and what the wick actually is suppose to prove oil to. You said " Both old leather belts are slipping, I assume because they seem to be saturated with oil. " Once you get the belts off can should be able to see the path the wick is taking from the oil pan and how / why the belts are becoming oil soaked. You are going to have to at least try and clean the oil off the belts, remove any oil from the pulleys where the belts set or the belts will continue to slip. If the wick is use to oil the bearing for the lever that actuates the motor you could probably just stub it off and remember to put a few drops of oil on it every once in awhile. If you decide to replace the full wick from the oil pan to it I would suggest threading a new wick through a tube (metal or plastic ) so that the oil doesn't natural drip down on the pulley and belts. As for: i) the wicks think of 100 percent cotton wicks used for oil lanterns which can be had at hardware stores or 100 cotton cording used in upholstery edges on seats which can be had fabric stores. ii) cleaning the bearing out by flushing with thin oil and compressed air or even a tin of 10w24. A couple of additional photo's would help. kgg

Yes this is often done. I'm assuming you are in the US so I would check with Toledo Sewing Machines ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/ ) for a speed reducer and a servo motor pulley. kgg

From what I can gather and I don't know much about linen thread the #16 that you are using in the Juki 341 is a 3 cord or 4 cord which has a thickness of 0.56 mm or 0.65 mm thread equal to about: i) #16, 3 cord just a touch over V207 which means it should use probably a#25 needle ii) #16, 4 cord just a touch under V346 which means it should use probably a#26 needle. So since you are using it in the Juki 341, i) I figure you are using #16, 3 cord as that machine isn't rated to handle a #26 needle or V346 thread. ii) The #22 needle is good for V92 thread or about a #30 linen thread. iii) The #25 needle you are using in the Cobra is good for V277. If you can read the information off the barbours thread spool to get a size or if you could measure the diameter of the thread someone more knowledgeable could suggest a proper size needle that may work. The Class 441 machines, Juki or clones are only rated for thread up to V415 or thread with a diameter of about 0.28" or .72 mm. kgg

You may want to check with Leather Machine Co. for how you need to set the machine up. Also attach a couple of photo's of how you have threaded the machine as they may recommend a different method of threading. The Cobra clones are threaded differently then the Juki TSC-441, the Cowboy or the Techsew. Here is a topic with photo's of how the top thread is threaded differently on these machines. You could try and thread the machine like a Juki TSC-441 and see if that works. Different thread path, different tensions, different number of top thread tension points. Also what size of needle are you using in the Juki 341 with what size of thread and what are size thread are you using in Cobra with what size needle? kgg