kgg

You may find using a "T" style angle key like shown in the video may twist depending on how tight the bolt was originally installed. You may want to consider using a 6mm angle key socket and racket with a short extension to eliminate possible twisting / striping problems. kgg

Here is a good cross reference needle size to thread size chart provided compliments of Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines: www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html If I'm not mistaken your machine can handle up to a #24 needle so in thick or sticky material you will max out at V138 thread with that needle size. Some vinyls are more sticky then others. I would go one needle size up for want is recommended for the thread size you select to give a little extra space in the hole so the threads (top and bobbin) don't catch on the material. Do a test run with the max number of layers of vinyl, like crossing seams, you are going to be sewing through and see what works best. Also bonded nylon will be slightly stronger then bonded polyester but bonded polyester will stand up to UV better. If you use a larger top thread then the bobbin thread for looks the strength of the seam will be that of the smaller bobbin thread. kgg

I would start by eliminated the easy stuff first. Slack off parts 16,17 and 18 and move the lever out about a1/8" and add oil to part 14 and see if that helps. If that doesn't work I would remove the bottom part of the spring from where it clips on while making sure the top part didn't let go from part 9. If it moves freely then the spring may have been over extended when you transported it on the reverse lever. If you could shine a light inside and take a photo that may help as the photo you posted really doesn't give enough detail to what things look like up around the top of the spring. kgg

Consew Manual in pdf: www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/205RB-1.pdf refer to page 23 Feed Mechanism part 11 spring return. Part 13 (reverse feed lever) maybe set too far in on part 14 (pin shaft) so to cause it to rub on the body of the machine. Also try and get some oil around the area where the pin shaft goes through the body while working the reverse lever. Can you see where it is catching / rubbing??? It is hard to tell from the manual but if it is like the Juki's there is a second hole to secure the return spring too should it not return properly / catch. kgg

You are correct I should have said top out at 3/8" presser foot lift. kgg

Since you are hand stitching you are probably use to thick thread, fairly large stitch spacing's and tougher veg tan leather. The Sailrite will top out at about 3/8" thickness, made for softer leather, has a max sewing thread size of V92 and the stitch length spacing will reduce as the thickness of material increases. This would not be my first choice. To get into the larger thread sizes, thicker / tougher materials consider a better used machine or maybe a one armed bandit like the Tippmann Boss or Cowboy Outlaw. kgg

Maybe as simple as the fuse contacts have compressed and need to be adjusted / bend outwards towards the fuse. kgg

Like Wizcraft all I can say is holy shit, I have never see that one before. This would be a good example of what damage a safety clutch can prevent in the sub 441 class machines. Looking at the photo's I would also check everything associated with the driving of the bobbin assembly all the way back to the main drive. Like most machines these days it's probably made in China or Taiwan (Republic of China). kgg

The main question is what are you planning on sewing as this may not be the best option for what you want to sew. kgg

Yes, I use that saying all the time but for the number of times I need to go over the capabilities of my existing machines the investment for the more popular 441 class machines is not cost effective. i) Cowboy 4500 the $4000 CAD plus shipping plus taxes, duty and brokerage fees ii) Cobra Class 3 the $4200 CAD plus shipping iii) Techsew 4100 the $4000 CAD plus shipping iv) Unknown brand TSC-441 at $2500 Where as a Juki TSC 441 will cost about $10,000 CAD the last time I checked. So a new one armed bandit by Cowboy (Outlaw) and Tippmann (Boss with Reverse) become alternatives at about $2000 CAD. kgg

Pastor bob is probably looking for something able to handle both thick layers and the ability to use larger threads (+V207) at a reasonable price. I figure I have the lower end pretty well covered off but I am debating on adding a one armed bandit for those times things are just a touch to thick or I would like to add a larger sized thread but I can't justify the cost of a 441 class motorized machine. kgg

I feel you pain. My take on this would be that the Alder and Singer are older brand name flatbed motorized machines while the Cowboy Outlaw is a cylinder arm one armed bandit that I assume is a new machine. The price to me seems high for both the Alder and Singer machines. The Cowboy will take up less space and another thing is parts and accessories for the both the Alder and Singer are going to be expensive. Of the three you have listed I would choose the Cowboy Outlaw as it is new with warranty / support / accessories. Another option to add confusion to your decision is that another one armed bandit is the Tippman Boss which has a new version that has Reverse for about $1400. kgg

A used one in Ontario sold at auction yesterday for $350 CA or $265 US, which was a bargain. I would try $400 but what you get will depend on the demand in your area. Best of luck kgg

A really good video is one done by Alexander Dyer ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH9IStW8aSc ) to show you what this machine is capable of. This is a high speed (2000 stitches per minute) drop feed machine meaning the material is moved along by the feed dog on the lower side of the material and the presser foot on the top side side basically just adds downward pressure to the material. If you need a walking foot machine maybe a Sailrite LSZ-1 or clone would work with a smooth presser foot. kgg

If I'm not mistake the Techsew 1460 is similar to the Sailrite Fabricator and the Consew P1206 which appear to be clones of an older Singer model. An excellent manual with photo's and detailed instructions for your machine would be the Sailrite Fabricator Guidebook ( https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/2016_Fabricator_Guidebook.pdf ). Checkout the "Adjusting the Presser Foot Lift" (page 50), "Adjusting the Vertical Lift" ( page 51) and "Adjusting Feed Timing of the Needle Bar, Presser Foot and Feed Dog of the Outer Presser Foot " (page 52). You may spot something not quite properly aligned / adjusted / rubbing / catching but at least you will have photo's to judge by. Also I agree with Constabulary that you top thread path is not correct but the Sailrite manual should help you sort that out. kgg

I would ask her to email you a photo of her existing glove or style she likes. Better yet would be if she sent you her glove so that way she gets what she wants in the weight of leather and style she feels comfortable wearing. kgg

Buying, new or used, from a local or fairly local dealer can have it's advantages should something go wrong down the road and you can test drive it with your stuff before you purchase it. If it is a used machine bought from a dealer chances are it has been gone through and should be in good working condition. If you decide to buy a used machine Juki would be my choice as parts and accessories are readily available and fairly inexpensive as compared to PFAFF or Alder

In Ontario the price range of $2000 CA will get you a really good used Juki LS-341 possibly Juki LS-1341 or a few hundred less then that of a new clone. Most of the clones like the Kobe LS 1341 and Techsew 2750 are clones of the older Juki LS-341 but the price can vary a great deal so shop around preferably from a local dealer. If you find something you are interested in new or used I'm sure someone here can give you an opinion about it. Your as bad as me. kgg

If your projects are going to be subjected to UV then a bonded polyester thread would standup better then a bonded nylon. The downside to bonded polyester is that is slightly weaker then bonded nylon. A word of caution is that there are limits on what size of needle and thread you can use in any machine. When you go above the recommended max needle size (Juki LU-563 --- #23) the hole in the needle/feed dog plate may not allow the needle to pass through and the spacing from the hook to the eye of the needle is reduced which may cause the hook to strike the needle. When you go above the recommended max thread size (Juki LU-563 --- V138 ) the head spacing of the needle thread and bobbin thread thread is reduced and may not allow for correct stitching as well as putting extra stress on the thread take-up lever. If you need /want to go to V277 thread the Juki LU-563 is not going to be the proper machine you would have to upgrade to at least a Juki LU-1508 NH to allow for the machine to properly accept a #25 needle. kgg

The Juki Lu-563 is an older machine that the spec has being able to take a #18 to #23 needle, 135X17 for material or 135x16 for leather. This means it will accept threads sizes from V69 (Tex70) to V138 (Tex135). It maybe able to accept a # 24 needle to sew V138 in thick tougher material or V207 (Tex210) in thinner. Always use an excellent quality thread like A&E thread and needles like Schmetz which can be purchased from places like Wawak.com. A good cross reference for thread to needle sizes can be seen courtesy of Toledo sewing machines www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html. kgg

The only options I can think of would be machines like Weaver, Cowboy and the Buckle Guy sell (www.buckleguy.com/leather-hole-punch-machine/) for about $1500 - $2000. Cheaper options would be: i) a hand press that would accept the punching dies like a setter press similar to ones used for setting rivets (www.buckleguy.com/bg-setter-hand-foot-press-requires-setter-die-w-screw/). ii) use a drill press with a shaft that is end tapped to accept the punching dies installed rather then a drill similar to the one that the buckle guy sells called Setter Post & Base for Screw-In Dies (www.buckleguy.com/bg-setter-post-base-for-screw-in-dies) These all have their limitations for how far in from the edge of the leather you can punch and how thick / tough the leather is as well as to deep your pockets are. kgg

What I would say for the 4 - 6 oz leather you are using any of the upholstery class machines which will sew up to about 3/8" thick with thread sizes up to V138 and maybe V207. But I do recommend the machines you choose is a compound feed (needle/presser foot/feed dog). A lot is going to depend on whether, for your stuff, a flatbed or cylinder bed machine would be best suited. Another factor is your budget which will help determine if it is going to be a brand name like Juki, PFAFF, Alder or a clone machine. If you want to use threads above V207 or the thickness of the layers are above 3/8" then you are into the 441 class machines like Cowboy CB 243 (flatbed) or CB2500 (cylinder bed) or the one arm bandits like Tippman Boss, Cowboy Outlaw or Weaver Cub. Why not buy or at least checkout industrial sewing dealers like A and B in Alberta / Manson in British Columbia /Japan Sewing in Ontario and save the import/broker/rate of exchange costs particularly if you are buying a clone machine. Even Tandy has decent clone machines. I would recommend going to a industrial sewing machine dealer in Alberta and test drive some brand name and clone machines (new or used) and with your stuff before buying one blindly. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I forgot to also note the thread was made in June 1978 so the thread is about 44 years old. You may have problems with the thread due to age and storage over the years. kgg

The info as I read it: i) Military spec ii) Manufacturer: A&E iii) Thread description: Type 1 which is Twisted multiple cord, cable twisted, not bonded, soft finish iv) Class A thread which is general purpose v) Material is 100 % Nylon vi) Thread size "E" which is V69 vii) Spool Size: weight of full spool of thread would be 16oz or 1 lb kgg

Great info. Clearly shows in this example seams sewn along the length in the direction of the load are stronger then those which are sewn across the strap. Another important item is the strength of the thread being used: V69 low end of the industrial threads has a breaking strength of about 11 pounds, V138 about 22 pounds V207 about 32 pounds, V415 about 72 pounds. kgg