kgg

I think the printing on your pack of needles is probably a bit blurry and it says DP x17 which is the same as 135 X17. The 17 denotes that the needle is used for fabric. Your machine requires 135x16 ( leather) or 17 (fabric) needles otherwise the needle will be too short or long to allow the hook to pickup the top thread properly which will give you skipped stitches if it does manage to pickup the top thread. When you measure the height of the spool, a 1 lb spool is about 7 inches tall from the base to the top. So you need the guide hole on the thread stand to be about 17.5 inches above the base of the spool of thread to allow for the thread to properly unwind / unkink. The problem I find with the commercial thread stands is that this can give a fairly serve angle from the thread stands guide hole to the first thread guide pin. I like to keep my top thread as close to horizontal to the top hole of the first guide pin on the top of the machine. The example is of a Kobe LS-1341 (setup for binding) which is the same as your Techsew 2750 that are clones of the older Juki LS-341 just different clone name. kgg

For leather you should use the 135x16 needles as they are designed to pierce / cut through leather where as the 135x17 are for fabric where they separate the fibers rather then cut through them. The needle size for V92 should be a #19 / 120 or #20 / 130 needle. A good thread size to needle size chart can be found at ( www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). You may find in thicker / tougher leather or multi layers of fabric you may have to go up another needle size above the recommended. This is so the hole that the needle punches is large enough not to allow the thread from being grabbed by the material which will affect how the loop is formed. If the loop isn't formed properly the hook can't catch it. A good source for needles can be found at Wawak.com. I personally find the Schmetz needles to work the best in may machines. Also the quality of thread can play an important role. Buy a brand name thread like A&E (made in Canada and the USA) as the consistency / quality is always dependable where as the cheap Chinese stuff is just a frustration generator with overall poor quality. Also I find the 1 LB spools of thread have less problems then the 4 or 8 oz spools. Remember you need 2 1/2 times the height of the thread spool too the thread stand thread guide hole. kgg

Any chance of posting a couple of photo's or a short video showing: i) How you have the machine threaded. ii) How you have the needle inserted in the needle bar. iii) Are you using 135x16 or 135x17 needles? iv) What are you sewing Fabric or Leather? v) How thick is the item you trying to sew? vi) What size of thread? vii) What size of needle? kgg

Does the skipped stitches happen on a turn or on straight runs? Have you checked the Hook timing? For future reference here are two video's of checking and setting the timing on a Class 441 machine: i) By UWE using a Cowboy: ii) By Al Bane using a Cobra: kgg

Couple of questions: i) What size of needle are you using? ii) What size of thread are you using? iii) How thick is the leather? iv) Is the hook worn blunt? If the hook has been worn back from use it will need to be adjusted as in retiming the machine to advance the hook. kgg

I would suggest you reconsider the Consew 206RB-5 rather then the 1206rb-1. The reason I am suggesting this is the 206RB-5 has a safety clutch system so when you jam up the hook/ shuttle you don't cause damage to internal parts. I think most people have at some point jammed a machine up. With a safety clutch you clear the jam, reset the clutch and you are back sewing. One simple jam on a machine without a safety clutch could and probably will cost you more then what you are saving on the initial price. Don't buy a machine based on price alone. Buy the best machine for what you are planning on sewing. There is nothing worst then buying a machine, irregardless of price, that is not capable of doing what you want. Once you buy a machine you are typically stuck with it. I think most of us have been down that road. Those machines are soon replaced usually at a dollar loss. kgg

Sorry about that my mistake. Both are Bonded Polyester and then it comes do to how those are processed. kgg

Yes both are Tex 90 but one, the top one is a Bonded Nylon and the other is a Bonded Polyester. The Bonded Nylon is physically thicker, stronger and to make matters more noticeable the Bonded Polyester is softer but handles UV and bleach much better. kgg

Just adding a sewing machine that can do your items will cut your labor cost. In my example your cost would drop to $15.00 rather then $30 which would give you a fighting chance at attracting sales. kgg

If you want to level up the playing field with your competition and gain more sales based on price you need equipment to reduce the main cost, Labor. To do that you need to invest in equipment, sewing machine, clicker press, burnisher etc. Lets assume the quality of your work is as good or better then the competitions. Lets assume a couple of other things the labor cost is $20 per hour, the material cost to make a wallet is $5 and the selling price is 2 times the cost to make the wallet. There are two fronts that you have to become competitive in: i) The time it takes to be ready for sewing. If you and your competition have similar wallets that sells well they are probably using a clicker press and produce the pieces for their wallet in less then two minutes where as you are hand cutting the same pieces for a similar wallet and it takes 15 minutes. In an hour they have 30 or more wallet pieces ready to be sewn and you have 4. Their cost per wallet is $0.67 and yours is $5.00. ii) The time it takes to sew. It takes your competition say 15 minutes to sew the wallet and it takes you 60 minutes to hand-stitch one. Your item costs $20 and theirs is $5. Your competition can sew all day long with very little fatigue day in day out. I don't think you would want to try doing that by hand. Summary: Competitions wallet costs: $5.00 in material and $5.67 in labor for a total cost of $10.67. Selling price: 2 x $10.67 or $21.34 Your wallet costs: $5.00 in material and $25.00 in labor for a total cost of $30.00. Your competition could sell the similar wallet for less then what it costs you to make it and still make a profit. Ask yourself would you pay the extra. If two items are of equal quality most customers will chose the one costing less. You have to either have a better item or be at least at a similar price point. There is and will always be a market for items made totally by hand but the general population can't appreciate or if they do they don't want to spent the extra dollars. Also since you are hand-stitching what size of thread do you want to use in the machine? This will also be a factor in selecting a machine. Most upholstery class 1541 flatbeds can handle V138, most class 1341 cylinder beds can handle V207 while the class 441 can handle V415. The totally manual machines like Cowboy Outlaw ($1400) can handle up to V346 and the Tippmann Boss ($999) can handle up to V415. kgg

Have you visited a industrial sewing machine dealer? Having local support to help you get familiar with a machine maybe of benefit if you have very little experience, they may have a good used machine that would work for you needs and you would be able to test drive probably different machines before you purchase. I would suggest buying a cylinder bed machine with a flatbed table attachment. You can then have the option of doing items not only items best done on flatbed but also items best done and sometimes only can be done on a cylinder bed machine. You may have too either increase your budget or purchase a good used machine. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

How thick is the material? Have you tried using a 110/18 needle? Is the thread a bonded nylon or polyester? kgg

Very nice rebuild. kgg

Since oiling and tapping of the shaft has helped I would also ask LMC if instead of the normal machine oil if something like a good penetrating fluid or Synthetic transmission fluid or even diesel fuel would be another alternative combined with oiling. I don't use regular sewing machine oil in any of my own sewing machines. I find that a mixture of Synthetic transmission fluid and Synthetic oil works much better but I am willing to take the risks associated of going outside normal sewing machine oiling / lubrication recommendations. I often use diesel fuel to free up seize metal components. You did mention that the boxes you received from UPS on the second machine was pretty damaged. Did you save the box as couple of photos of the box may help to determine was the damage caused by mishandling. kgg

According to Schmetz Needle Size Designations (https://www.schmetzneedles.com/pages/needle-size-designations ) A number # 19 is a 120 metric needle this is good for A number # 20 is a 125 metric needle A number # 21 is a 130 metric needle which is good for V92 (Tkt30) A number # 22 is a 140 metric needle kgg

The one for your machine that the manufacturer recommended, which was the 134-35 needles so the Groz-Beckert should be the ones. The manual I am referencing is https://www.manualslib.com/manual/461721/Duerkopp-Adler-269.html?page=4#manual kgg

I don't see an additional video attached. Which parts seem to be causing the problem? I wouldn't make any adjustments just yet until you get the main problem sorted out first with LMC. Please keep us updated. kgg

They are different needle systems. They are the same diameter (2.0 mm) with different lengths made to fit different machines. The 134-35 length is 38.1mm from the end to the center of the eye and the 134 is 33.9. kgg

I took another look at your photo's. The side photo where the one with Goldsworthy's tag is visible shows two small holes in the casing just under the "G and the "S". Which indicates a name tag placement. In this case it would be for the "CONSEW". Also from that you can figure it was a Consew 226 which used the Singer 111W155 casing. A reference video would be " Consew 226 Everything You Ever Wanted to Know about this walking foot industrial sewing machine " ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBF0ECECi4c). The Consew 226 or Seiko STW-8B and if I'm not mistake the Juki 563 are based on the Singer 111W155 casing. In your last photo there appears to be lettering and numbering stamped into the presser foot bar which may help determine if they are Singer parts. kgg

To me it looks like a Singer 111W. First I thought it maybe a Juki but the only machines that come to mind with the serial numbers embedded into the machines bed were the Singers. kgg

I am going to assume the drive belts to the motor in installed. I would remove the drive belt from the handwheel to the reducer pulley and see if the squealing disappears. If it does then you know the problem lies with the belts, reducer pulley or servo motor. If the squeaking still remains you know it is machine head related. kgg

It is a shame that there are no industrial lockstitch sewing machines made in North America that I know of. For the hobbyist and small leather businesses the bottom line is "dollars do matter" which leaves most people (particularly the hobbyist) with two options, purchasing a used machine or a clone. I really like the Juki line of machines but it must be noted that not every Juki is made in Japan so ask before buying. I do have a China made Juki and in my option it is not the quality of the one made in Japan. I looked for three years for a used Juki TSC-441 and could not find one that wasn't bet to death probably because most are used in a commercial environment. This left only a couple options: i) suck it up and cough up the 10k to buy a new one or ii) purchase a clone. I finally broke down and bought a 441 clone. kgg

My take on your sewing woes: i) The Alder 269-73 can only handle V92 thread with a max 130 needle. So trying to sew thick or tough materiel / leather with the incorrect size needle for the thread is just going to create problems, thread being shredded, skipped stitches, needles breaking, etc. ii) The needles you showed in the photo are for fabric not leather as denoted by the "R" in the bottom left hand corner of the label. A reference for needle points can be found at: https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needle-information#Leather_Points iii) A good reference chart for thread to needle combinations can be found at https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

Typical problem when the thread is to large for the needle or their are burrs on the thread guides or needle as well as needle inserted incorrectly. What size of thread are you using? How thick is the items you are trying to sew? kgg

The info that I have seen for the 269 sub class 73 is that it is rated for 130 (#21) needle. Since your machine was converted probably to a 135 x16 system, as the needle that came with the machine is shorter, you will still be limited to roughly a 130 max size needle to provide proper needle to hook clearances. What is it that you want to sew with what size of thread? kgg