kgg

All three machines are compound feed machines, great feeding choice. The Techsew 1660 is a Chinese clone costs approximately $1800. The Juki 1541S is made in Japan costs $1800. The Consew 206RB-5 I think is a Chinese clone costs approximately $1400. If dollars are the major factor then I would probably go with the Consew. If you want the best in this class of upholstery sewing machine then go with the Juki. The quality is there right out of the box from fit to finish. A very detailed operating and service manual also comes with the machine which can be very helpful down the road. Since this is a nice layout of cash if possible go see and compare all three machines before purchasing. A lot will also depend on the dealer that you buy from (machine setup, warranty, support, etc.). I do own a Juki 1541S it is accurate (forward or reverse) and it will sew whatever I can force, stuff under the presser foot. Buy Once, Cry Once.

You can set it up using a treadle but like Solarleathermachines said you are going to loss torque and it is going to be a frustrating to say the least. The main reservation I would have is whether or not the treadle frame will take the weight and any side to side movement of the machine. Treadled machines are great for what they were intended for, sewing lighter weight items when and where electricity isn't readily available. kgg

With the information provided by fredk and miksc I think you should be extremely wary of the request. kgg

Hopefully her birthday is near the delivery date. Put a pretty ribbon (her favourite colour) on it and say look what I got you for your birthday. Also build a dog house you are probably going to need it. kgg

I would ask for a 25 percent upfront down payment and they would get 275 tags in a mutually agreed time frame. If they agree and come through with that then get the equipment (sewing machine, thread, tag material, press, dies, edger, etc.). kgg

Ah maybe in the future the pillowcase method may come in handy. For me doing the pillowcase method on some things I was able to stop having to redo stuff as my guys were destroying the V138 seam thread, teeth like razor blades, and drop down to V69. They still destroy the exterior edge thread which is mainly for looks but it doesn't fall apart. kgg

What is the mark that you have decided on? From that point I am sure someone can point you in the right direction and suggest the best machine option. Another option that hasn't been suggested and may suit your needs for straps, wallets and bags depending on the thickness of the material maybe a portable walking foot machine. I would recommend you check out the Reliable Barracuda which are available at Home Depot for about $500 with 3 yr warranty (https://reliablecorporation.ca/products/barracuda-200zw-portable-walking-foot-zig-zag-sewing-machine), Sailrite LSZ for about $900, Techsew 611 for about $500. Place any of them in a table, add a servo motor and you would have a similar and I think a better a better machine then the Tandy pro stitch costing about $1500. Even though these are not true industrial sewing machines it maybe an option to get your feet wet so to speak. kgg

You may have to go to a larger city like Houston to find a industrial sewing machine dealer. Do a search for industrial sewing machine dealer by city and you should be able to narrow it down. You may have to do a little road trip, I travelled four hours each way to get the right machine at the right price from a dealer that I felt was competent / professional. Could have gotten the same new machine about a hour away but didn't feel confident about the dealer and the difference in price was considerable, well worth the drive. kgg

What type of toy? Some chew toys that I have done and seen are sewn inside out first to hide and protect the thread. This way a smaller thread can be used. A small hole is then left somewhere to pull the interior out which will be then be the exterior. The edge is then sewn just to help flatten the folded edge out and close the pullout hole. kgg

More info please. Like what size thread (top and bottom)? type of thread (bonded nylon, bonded polyester)? size of needle being used? needle leather or fabric? Juki model Juki? type of leather? kgg

Did you mean V69 rather then 169? kgg

I agree with chrisash on servo motor and weight. It is nice to have machines setup to do basically one function and I do find that with the compound feed I have if I have to do something light and am to lazy to dig out a lighter machine I have to be really careful and really dump down the Juki 1451S. kgg

Take a trip to your local brick /mortar dealer with samples of your stuff and see what fits your needs / budget. Used machines look for brand names like Juki, Singer, Pfaff, Alder etc. be wary of clone machines. New machines look for a reputable dealer with a excellent track record as close to you as possible. If you want a machine up and running then stay away from buying online from certain sites unless you are prepared to do your own assembly / repairs with little or no support. Remember no machine will do everything but initially choose one that does most of your stuff in your price range. kgg

Yes I do admit there are some very good clones as other equipment out of China and excellent dealers that take pride in what they offer. Finding a good sewing machine clone can be difficult with so many available from so many labels from different dealers. In a lot of cases it can be hard to tell one from another. Some I tried were OK while others sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around. kgg

It is sad that a lot companies have moved their production to China. Quality or the lack of will follow and good enough or almost good enough will be the norm. To the best of my knowledge the Juki 1541S still remains as being built in Japan. I would purchase a used brand name like Singer, Adler, PFAFF, Juki that have been reconditioned any day over a new Chinese clone. Since this is a nice layout of cash do a visit to a brick/mortar shop and do a comparison of a brand name (Singer, Adler, PFAFF, Juki) new and used then compare them to the Chinese clones. I bet dollars to donuts that you will you will easily see the difference. kgg

If you want a NEW Consew 206-rb check out Toledo sewing machines. They list the price at $1395. I bet you are glad now that you didn't get the one at auction. For $1800 you could get a new Juki 1541S. The link: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html kgg

I agree with Wiz and as side note which way are turning the handwheel. You should be turning it clockwise and a good reference video would be https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOliY3NHg_A to help visually understanding how the Chinese patcher forms the basic lock stitch. kgg

Yes this is a Singer Patcher. If I were closer to me I won't hesitate particularly for $300. You maybe able to get it cheaper even. The Singer 29-70 is a short arm, small bobbin, with no side wheel while the Singer 29-71 is a short arm, small bobbin, with side wheel and the Singer 29-72 is a long arm, large bobbin, with side wheel. So from the photo I think it is a Singer 29-72 from the photo. kgg

Depending on your local laws a small sea can (shipping container) would make a get little shop. Put a small 12"x12" sign on it, 3'-0" door in the side and bang you have a brick & mortar shop. These are very popular and fairly inexpensive here in Ontario for general storage, summer cabins etc. kgg

Puritan sewing machines have been around for a long time and have a great reputation for stitching / durability for handling thick leather in a production environment. The only concern for some folks is that they are Chain stitch machines not lock stitch. That may or may not matter to you depending on what you want to due with the machine. Depending on the age, overall condition and of course the cost it maybe a good buy. If you had some more info and pictures someone familiar with those machines could make some more detailed comments. kgg

As a note the rotary hook for the Juki 562 would look like: https://www.ebay.ca/i/162872521444?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=706-89093-2056-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162872521444&targetid=607627058052&device=c&adtype=pla&googleloc=9000651&poi=&campaignid=1669215008&adgroupid=63013116685&rlsatarget=pla-607627058052&abcId=1063836&merchantid=116972197&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInJOGuNT14gIV1MDICh15ogX5EAYYAiABEgIhHfD_BwE As a note the rotary hook for the Juki 563 would look like: https://www.ebay.ca/i/401426223821?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=706-89093-2056-0&mkcid=2&itemid=401426223821&targetid=607627058052&device=c&adtype=pla&googleloc=9000651&poi=&campaignid=1669215008&adgroupid=63013116685&rlsatarget=pla-607627058052&abcId=1063836&merchantid=116972197&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0JOfrNT14gIVB4_ICh2ZSQAxEAYYAyABEgLAiPD_BwE kgg

My thought process of elimination for the height problem would be to move the main drive gear in the second photo as far right as possible so it would make no contact with the hook assembly. Then slide the hook assembly back in place. This would be too see if the hook assembly will seat down lower. If it did seat lower then maybe it is just the placement of where / how the main drive gear contacts the hook assembly gear and its placement on the hook assembly shaft. If the hook assembly does not seat lower then I think the cause would probably be related to the top bushing being not seated deep enough, an incorrect bushing or something else preventing the assembly from going lower down.

From what I can gather the Singer part # 240556 and the Juki part called vertical axis sewing hook assembly #B1830-055-0A0 should be interchangeable. If you check " hensewfiles.com/PDF/Juki LU-562.pdf " section 3. Sewing Hook & Shaft Components the one on the left is a 562 assembly while the one on the right is a 563. These drawings are really clear and may help you with checking how things look and go together. Like davemac suggested it could be sleeves not seated properly. kgg

I think whoever had the machine apart last didn't seat the sewing hook assembly while timing the machine correctly by not setting it far enough down in the drive pinion Fig 23 before tightening the screws in Fig 22 item #2. What I would do is follow the instructions for "How to pull out the sewing hook from machine" page 19, clean, reinstall and then do the necessary adjustments on pages 16, 17 and 18 of the Juki LU-562 manual. Good manual located at : https://www.manualslib.com/manual/790496/Juki-Lu-562.html?page=13#manual kgg

What I liked about the video is it actually showed how the basic lock stitch is formed. Showing the relationship between the main stitch forming components (the top thread, needle, bobbin thread, bobbin and the shuttle hook). You can read about how a lock stitch is made, sew every day on a machine or watch computer generated illustrations but for the most part it is difficult to see and get that visual impression. This short video I thought would give anyone a great visual insight to how a lock stitch sewing machine basic function works whether it is a patcher, cylinder bed, post bed or flat bed a great visual insight. kgg