wolvenstien

I am very interested in seeing this once finished. Make sure to get detailed pix once all mounted....

Art, Howard, everyone else........ There has been a Tina Fan Club since January 6th 2008.... I am the President and founder.... Tina, great work as usual. This is something I would be proud to own and use.

Sorry I am late on this.... Hope you had a very happy birthday sweetheart. Be well.... and have fun.

Froggy, Bro, first off, very cool work.... if I owned an ax... I would love that to adorn it... Secondly..... My bro brought me his bass a few months ago so i could replace the internal electronics... everything, the pickups, the rheostats, the jack, everything, and putty up the old holes in the wood and drill new ones to fit a new pick guard he brought. I still have it sitting here because I have been waiting for a part since he dropped it off... but... me being a leather freak, I offered to do some leather work for it... and he promptly turned me down reasoning that he has "burned" himself on the finish when playing, and figured that leather would have more friction than the smooth finish and pick guard and would cause worse burns.... makes sence... Have you gotten to talk to you buddy about the pick guard? Would you ask him about this for me please. This is going onto a rhythm guitar, not a bass right? I dont think there would be much difference but I dont play either so i would not know. I see you pre made the holes for the screws, are you going to use conventional flush mount screws to mount this? or something different? Thanks bro.

When you gonna post pix of this thing mounted on a bike?

Did you hand stitch? or put it on a machine? I especially like the effect the backgrounding on the inside cover makes the carving separate and stand out from the smooth.

Is that a Mark II?

its called children....

Dont wet it first.... go to the store and buy a gallon of vinegar. Just dump the gallon on it, once you have scrubbed it, then hose it off. Water will do nothing but disturb the spores. The vinegar will kill them on contact.

Yes, Binder clips work great especially with a little glue in the seam.... Other than checking for burrs, you also do not want to place them farther into the leather than the lace line if it is still cased.... the binder clips will imprint themselves into the leather. I did a beautiful paddle, but I rushed it by gluing the two sides together before the sides were totally dry, and used the clips all around the edge. After the glue had cured, i pulled the clips off and found nasty indentations all around it from the clips....

The vinegar works. Works really well. I bought a side of latigo that was rolled and I was not allowed to unroll in in the store because of the very low price.... Got it home, found the mold, and got on the board here. Johanna recommended I take it out into the sun, and scrub it with a cloth or non abrasive brush and white vinegar. I did as told, allowed it to dry for about an hour in the sun, and rolled her back up and brought her back inside. She has been sitting rolled up since then until about a week ago... I unrolled her to cut some off to use, and was pleasantly greeted by a nice clean side. No mold.... I dont know how many other would agree with me on this, but when i have cased something, and I know I am not going to get back to it for some time.... i will allow it to dry out. Now if I have started tooling on it, then I do everything I can to finish it. If I have to stop, I will case it again, and put it under either my cutting board, or something else to prevent it from rapid drying, and I will get back to it ASAP, and if I find that I cannot get back to it, I will pull it out and allow it to dry with the hopes that when i recase it, then tooled area will not swell on me. I have had it swell so that the tooling was distorted and I had to retool the area, and I have had it swell where it actually looked better and the tooling had much more depth....

I had to share this with you all.... I thought it was way cool CLICK HERE

Didnt someone do this same thing but allot cheapeer last year or so..... I remember this being posted her before the big crash.... but it was a nice smooth covering, not a cushioned thing like that....

Well... I am not sure if they use it in the Altoids gum or not, but it is the main ingredient in the mints....

Thats it, thank you Barra

Wow.... I posted this back in January, and totally forgot abotu it.... LOL. The wax that is in the bath is a very soft, non flaky wax. It is formulated to be used on skin.... you put the wax int he bath, turn it on, and let it melt, then put your feet, hands, elbows or whatever you want into the mix, leave them there for a minute or two (not so hot to burn you) and pull out, allow the wax to harden and either dip again to add more coats, or not.... then cover with a plastic bag, wait 15-30 minutes and remove bag and wax.... put wax back into the tub, and reuse..... with this wax being flexible, is why I considered it as a low cost water proofing method....

Sounds like we need a contact for them, see if they will do samples.... and if we like the samples, maybe see about doing a group buy.... This John Mills.... wouldnt be the son of Olan Mills would he?

I cant speak on what everyone uses for their items, but I can speak on your first question.... Fiebings is not being banned.... Solvent based oil dyes are being banned. These are high (cant think of the word) solutions that the state of California had demonized and illegalized for "hobby" and personal use. And several other states are wanting to follow Californias lead because everyone is trying to jump on the green, save the earth from global warming band wagon.... The eco flo is Tandys answer to Californias decision to disallow the solvent based dyes to be sold. All the Eco Flo is is water soluble dye that they have been selling for allong time already, but they re packaged everything and slapped a new name on everything and hiked the price by a dollar for every 4oz bottle and introduced several new colors and discontinued several of the old colors. Now as for Fiebings, they are also focusing on water based dyes too. And Low (what ever that word is) dyes. I can still get the good stuff here in Chattanooga.... but most of it is on the discontinued shelf....

Brad, there are several methods you can use. No one method is the correct one either..... to each his or her own, and what works for one, might not work for the other.... For me.... Dye: Dobber the black dye onto the leather, allow to dry, and do it again until all the white chalkish look is gone. Finish: Either I finish with the "water proofer" or I finish it.... If finishing, I will use resoline or sheen. Waterproofing: If I am water proofing something for my bike, these days I am not finishing the item, I am just applying Aussie Wax.... put it on, buff it in, and re-apply.... over and over.... and then re-apply when it needs it.

Gum Arabic.... now thats funny.... when i was working at wrigley, and they moved the Altoids line here, powered gum arabic was the main ingredient..... I use Gun T allot when I am making coasters.... I will coat the entire back using a dobber. It starts to dry as I am applying it and I just add more until i get a thickish even coverage over the rough side of the leather. Then I take a cloth and scrub it real good until it is nice and smooth and even all over. I might then use black edge coat to cover it or leave it plain. Either way it provides a nice water resistant and skid resistant surface for the coasters when I take them to a Bar. The bar it gets set on is usually wet, or stands a good chance to get wet durring the night, and if someone tries to slide it is doesnt move easily....

Sorry to jump off topic here.... Marlon, Get on you local craigslist dot org. I am in Chattanooga, could not find any here, got on the Atlanta site, and found all kinds of toys - um, I mean tools..... Made deals with everyone and went on a road trip.... mapped it all out and hit everyone on my way and ended up stopping over at a friends from the site here to BS and bounce stuff off of.... think that was the time I stole his hand stitcher to to sew up some saddle bags.... anyway.... I picked up a scroll saw and a band saw from the same guy for 110.00 total.... also picked up a 8 inch lathe, a dewalt sawzall, and was going to get a sewing machine but ended up not getting it.... but I made out like a bandit and got to spend time with another leather worker of which i dont get to do here.....

Froggy, Tammy, I still have both the items you sent me. This thing has turned into such a mess. I was designated to organize the poker run, then i was pulled off it because they decided to merge this one with another one that was being put on by a local MC who were doing one for a class mate of Bens. It was scheduled for September the 6th.... Then I was told about 2 weeks ago that we were not going to do it with the other, we were going to do it on our own.... Well, as it turns out, I have been able to put together a very nice route for the run, but there is no way I can get businesses to pitch in this late in the game to make this a viable poker run, much less the advertising.... So what we have decided to do is just have a Memorial ride with an auction at the end. This way we can still try to gather some money for the scholarship fund. We havent decided as yet if we are going to charge or ask for donations to be on the ride itself.... but everything else for a Memorial Ride has been set up. We are still going to do it on the 6th, but it will be on our own. We thank you both for your donations, and I will post back what they fetched. Anyone else out there have anything you would like to donate to the cause.... Post back here or PM me and I will give you the address to send it to. Thanks again, Wolvie

What really gets me is I have a phone case here I made for my blackberry, and I is done exactly like the seat... I tooled it out, antiqued it with the very same antique paste, let it dry, then finished it with supersheen, and have been wearing it now for 6 months atleast and have had no problems with the finish.... it looks today just like it did the day i made it except for some wear, and it has gotten darker like the passenger backrest has.... even the flap is 100% intact...

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...ic=2937&hl= Here is a thread i started a while back.... this is leather from the same hide. I didnt get pix of it, but it is pretty much the same thing, except it came off in sheets on the older one.... Thing about using pecards or leather balm is you cant use it over antique or it will moisten the dried paste and ruin everything. Other wist I would use it.... So I am left with having to find something or some way to get a finish over the antique paste. The way I applied this paste was to use woolskin in a small area, and a cloth to wipe it down once it was rubbed in real well, then move to a new area. Once it was completely covered with antique, i went back over it with a cloth kind of buffing it to get any excess off. I allowed to dry and sprayed it with leather sheen the next day. So Keith, you are suggesting the following: 1. Strip the finish using Acetone. 2. Strip the antique with mineral spirits. 3. Wash and rinse thoroughly with soap and water after stripping. 4. Wash with oxalic acid. 5. Oil the leather, apply a light coat and let set for at least 8 hours to allow the oil to wick deep into the fibers and not be left on the surface. 6. If you are using a paste antique, it will apply more evenly if mixed with the leather sheen. I prefer Neat-lac or tan-kote for this. If you don't mix the paste antique, thin it a little with mineral spirits. 7. Buff off the excess fairly quickly. 8. Apply the lacquer finish by hand with a woolskin. Using extra lacquer will help to smooth the antique further. Work the lacquer into the leather like oil, not just a thick coat on the surface to dry. This will crack and peel and look like a plastic finish. Ok, questions: Where do I find oxalic acid? I havent tried mixing antique with anything before, so what is the ratio you are talking? And what would you use to apply the cut antique to the leather with? Now you say to finish it off with a lacquer finish like neat lac but wont Neat Lac just crack on me when I sit on it? I have used Neat Lac but have not had good luck with it wicking into the leather, it sits on top of the antique whenever i have used it....

Luke, it is not a matter of something being incompatible with something else.... leather sheen and super sheen are both compatible with antique.... its a matter of it coming off just from bare usage in a matter of days...