Bant

A Buddy of mine has asked me to make a wind string slider for him. I showed him a three strand turk's head I'd done on another project. Great says he. Next he hands me a new roll of Tandy 1/4 inch latigo lace with a quick comment that the slider will take less than 72 inches of the latigo they say. Ah the ever elusive "They". I see no reason it can't be done with a minimal useage of the latigo, but I thought I'd throw it out here for thoughts. So my question is, is there a formula that I could use to put in all of the quasi critical dimentions?

Sir, in the above post, you made reference to punter. Would you please educate me as to the meaning?

Very nice! As for after thoughts, I dare not speak of as I have a Phd in after thoughts

To my eye, I see a practical and well done bag! With reasonable care it will be around to pass on to the next generation. Very, very nice!!!

Thanks for the responses Gentlemen. I've got the farm woodwork as well as a few others. I'm going to have decide one way or the other. Thanks again for the feed back!

Shortly after I joined this forum, I threw out several questions regarding stitching horses. My ultimate objective is to build one that is a blend of ideas. I'm now at the point of the clamp design. I see clamps that are canted, and those that are vertical. I'd appreciate any thoughts of both styles that you Folks might have, as well as any other design thoughts you might share.

Your location as well as pics of the conchos would be helpfull. Fill free to PM me.

I'm impressed!

Sir, could I PM you for the purposes of picking your brain?

I almost forgot, welcome to the forum. What part of the world are you located in?

Many years ago an Old Timer taught me how to handle snake skin from the beginning of getting the skin off, then drying it, and lastly preparing it for future use. His method of tanning, for lack of a better word, was to make up a 50/50 mixture of Glycerine and Alcohol (Isopropyl) in a container that could be sealed, insert skin, give it a shake periodically and in a couple of weeks it (the skin) would be ready for use. Having said all of that, it appears to me that your primary issue is the brittleness of the skin. If it were me, I'd whip up a batch of the aforementioned solution and start by gently brushing it onto both sides of the skin not less than twice a day. I'd continue that and periodically assess to see if the skin was becoming less brittle. It it became supple enough, I'd gently roll it up and put it into a container of fresh solution, cap it tightly, give it a shake a few times a week for a couple of months. If all goes well, you might well end up with some skin fore your projects. If you try this approach, please let me know how it turns out.

Nate, didn't respond sooner, lost power, etc. Tighten the knot, then trim short, then tuck.

Nate, I came upon your post late, but to answer your questions on finishing that turk's head up, I would approach it same, same as with any turk's head. Start at the beginning point and work thru it tightening it up. When you've reached the end, trim the ends short, then take your marlin spike/fid, and ease the bitter ends back under to hide them. Clear as mud, right? Looking at your pic, on the left hand side, you want to get under your starting point (just past the left two parts) and ease it under them to hide the end. I'm not hitting on all 8 cylinders today, but someone will probably come along with a clearer explanation.

Thanks for the response. Figured it was long gone. Thanks again.

Is the slicker still available?

Please add me as well.

In my opinion I believe you first need to determine the intended use of the sling. For example, will it be primarily used for carrying a rifle with occasional use as a hasty sling or is it intended for use in competition setting? Once the intended use is defined, then the build components can be spec'd out. I'm not a pro leather worker or even a skilled hobbyist, but I have a solid background in firearms.

I'm a pretty fair hand with what is/was called marlinspike seamanship, but your term twisted loop knot doesn't ring any bells for me. Would you have a picture, drawing, etc that you could provide?

Sir, were it me, I'd take a triangular file to the awl end to be grasped by the collet. Don't go crazy, just a stroke or two should raise enough of a bur to allow the collet to get a better grip on the awl. Alternatively, you could pick up a cheap straight hand knurling tool which will give the end of the awl a more controlable profile.

Would you contact me in a private message? I may be interested.

TSes, thanks kindly!

Seems I never post unless I have a question. This time it's to see if anyone can either tell me how to do a Loveless cam. If not that, any pointers regarding where I might educate myself. Thanx folks

Many thanks for your responses Folks! I learned many years ago that I have a bad tendency to over think and over complicate relatively easy thing things. This is evidence of that. Again thanks much!

I first joined this site looking for plans to build a stitching horse. Folks here abouts were more than gratious and I've been looking at plans, taking part of one or the other in the attempt to come up with the most usefull design for me. When I was very young, my grandfather's stitching horse had no cant to the jaws, meaning they were perpendicular to the surface of the seat. So, my first question is trying to understand the purpose of cant feature. If my head hadn't been spinning enough I ran across a discussion, I don't know where, that was talking about left handed horses vs right hand horses! I'm hoping some of you folks can set me straight. Thanks in advance...

Thank you folks kindly.