nylonRigging

Backside Pin notches probably just worn pretty bad on the backside of your Dial knob . Does not take that much pressure of the spring/pin to keep it from turning . I would just get ta new turn dial . People man handle and force the turning of the Stitch-length Dial . It wears out the backside of the Dal . Always push down little bit on the Reverse Lever, to release pressure on that Dial spring/pin , so it turns smooth easy when changing stitch length's . .

Are you talking about the small / simple, single wooden drawer ? - -

I think they/Artisan only put speed reduction pulley w/servo drive, on their heavier duty machines . The drive servo and pulley reduction on my heavy Artisan Cylinder Bed, is a torque brute . - No , on the Artisan model 2618-1B . the pic is Drive on one of there dual drive Post Beds machines . but relevant because ( IMHO ) this Post Bed not heavy duty Artisan industrial machine, and this Servo Drive is probably same Servo used with their current lighter weight machines . - Have no complaints yet , they have pretty good customer service also, easy to contact and talk over phone . Have a crapload of hours on their 441 clone , and only had their Post Bed about a year . Both machines are pretty solid workers . And that is my biggest interest in any machine I buy .. It Has to be Dependable runner, or it going back out the door . Tables are set-up right and tight, and are good plywood/Lam. tops , ( No cheep Press board tops ) . Have other machines, Singer, Consew, Mitsu, Juki ...etc. ( my ) main reasons for going with them/Artisan, is their competitively priced . W. Coast US established, with me up North in W. Oregon . They don't take your payment till the machine is shipped . Good CS . and Trucking/Shipping has been under 200-$ usd up North to Oregon for me. .

I have 2 Artisan machines . in-house set-up . 'one with' reducer , and one 'without' speed reducer . When buying the Artisan machine with the spec's. that read 'without reducer' . That was also the 1st question I had, before I bought this last machine from them . So I called them and they reassured me that it not needed . . All I can say is that I have Zero Complaints with their drive motors they brand and install that have No reducer . programmable, and It adjustable to go as slow as you choose . I was pleasantly surprised that Low torque power is there also . So here is 2 Pic's. of the Drive 'without reducer' . pulley off the drive is a smaller 50mm Diam. . I don't know the Servo manufacture that Artisan put there brand on but they seem to make good choice on there servo purchase . - - -

IMHO .. that not looking to bad at all . I don't see any rust or pitting . as long as it not froze with old varnished oil ? . Just looks like it was neglected on any cleaning . Me .. I would just blow it all out with Air Hose, and then manual oil All friction points , taking my time and rotating the hand wheel . Then string it up, and turn-ON the motor drive . Run it for hour or so sewing lightweight scraps, then get a good feel for what you got going on mechanically . I would just lay a small towel in the bottom of the oil drip-pan , Then after you over-oil the whole machine, you can clean the drip-pan out latter. After blowing it all out with Air . If it tight rolling and sticking with rotating hand wheel . I would pump some hot air to it with Hair Dryer on Hot . or a heat gun set on 'low heat' . That will loosen all the old oil and lint and get all rolling smooth . .

craiglist is going to be a hit and miss for finding good clean cylinder bed in reasonable driving distance . If you wanting brand name, and will hold a better resale value over time . the Juki 1341 that ( kgg ) mentioned is ...Great . . You are living in NorCal. . if you do end-up buying new clone import . 'for Me' .. I would just contact Artisan Sew in Bay area Cal. , call and ask 'what is in stock' . You can get into walk compound feed, medium duty cylinder setup for 1800-$ to 2300 . along with consew/juki/singer... I run a couple of Artisan setups on cylinder and post machines , they run solid, and setup with a quality servo drive . Have good customer service . Shipping for me from bay area up to Portland trucking hub for me to pick it up, was about 190-$ last time I brought one up here . So you shipping closer in-state would probably far less-$ . .

Those, 3-prong/spur T-bolts . If you buying more than a few, . It is pretty cheep price and fast shipping from ' MonsterBolts ' . they have their website. and also sell of off ebay or Amazon . Last bags of, 1/4"x20 - 7/16" , were 16-$ shipped, for bags of 100 . .

The kwan Hing raised feed dog/needle plate fit pretty smooth easy, was really nothing that was off on fit and finish . Their feed dog change-out was just like any other feed dog on that model machine . - -

1st post ? .. 1st sewing machine ? .. You got a few things going on there ? . People on the forum could ( guess ? ) explain any number of possible different 'cause of problem' scenarios for you to pick and choose from . but .. Your already saying that your way over your head, lacking mechanical knowledge for the machine diagnosis and repair . Don't Punish Yourself . Fix it fast and correctly the 1st time , find/hire a Tech. to assess the problem and do what is needed . . edit add: Where do you live ? unless you are isolated area away from civilization ...LOL , and repair Tech. is impossible to find or you drive to his location . Get a factory model schematics parts diagram, then off the list of problem/fix possibilities you collect here . Start studying and take your time in finding and fixing the problems . .

The zigZags do pop-up here off and on regularly , and Speak of the Devil ... LOL.HAhahaha . and 1st thing I see when I clik on the Craiglist to take a quick browse .. and I see what you Jonesing For . A nice clean little ( 107w5 ) ... . . But it killing me a little to, as that machine model was the very 1st machine I bought to learn to sew . https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/for/d/vancouver-singer-industrial-sewing/7393692542.html . EDIT ADD : Craiglist will tease you.. cant beat it .. Just noticed this popup today .. If you in the N.W. , ( OR. WA. area ?? ) IF wanting a good buy on a , 40" Longarm ? Singer 144W302 compound feed . This machine Head is just begging for a fresh new table set-up . Looks priced to move @ 1500-$ .. or Best Offer . https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bfs/d/port-hadlock-singer-144w302-long-arm/7390184967.html .

( IMHO ) .. just start with the small fine tooth and smallest needle hole plate , then can easy move up larger, if you cant get the results you want . the dogs, plates, feet ..etc. are all pretty cheap cost anyway for that set-up . So no biggie on owning multiple Feed sets . I think if you play around for one day with sewing sample pieces of thin/lightweight materials . You probably make the fine fabric dogs work great on the Feed with your choice of press foot, pressure, and tension . ( same type yours ) . I use the largest/heavy feed dogs/needle plate on similar set-up on one of my bottom feeds , but I tuned it to thump threw thick and heavy with a, size# 20 and 22 needle and t-70/#69 . I would not use that combo if I sewing light and thin material, and it for sure be crappy results . .

Why ,.. Med. or Large feed dog and plate ---> If you sewing light/thin ? A 'smaller' size needle hole on the fine-tooth plate . You will get far less pucker, getting punched/shoved threw hole around the needle . .

The Craiglist here, 'industrial zigzags' and combo zigzag/straight-stitch . There been a few of them in this area popup steady . Industrial zigzags, They definitely not as prevalent as straight-stitch industrial. My area here I guesstimate it about 2% out of a hundred straight-stitch machines for sale are zigzag . Never seeing any in your AO is a little weird . .

ya , if you are running the 'fine fabric' fine tooth feed dog setup on the machine . For thicker and heavier materials, they make a more taller bigger/heavier dog with a raised needle plate for that type common feed set-up. great for Slower RPM and thumping threw thick . On my old Mitsu. DB single needle, ( same parts ) as your Singer . I tuned for 135x17 needle, the heiviest Dog and plate set with slow servo RPM . I can 'Easy' sew ' 8-thick ' 1-k denier . urethane backed Nylon with using T70/#69 . I have couple different size Roller feet and needle plate and dog also for it . I cant remember parts#'s on those but it very common sold everywhere . Don't know if I seen any Heavy duty single-Dog needle plate setup's for the Roller Foot sets . If you sewing some soft thin leather you can grind off the sharpness of that dog to leave a softer bite . Heavy Dogs/raised Plate .. This one set here.. works really well on a Mitsubishi I have , same parts for your singer . https://www.cutexsewingsupplies.com/products/heavy-work-teflon-non-stick-needle-plate-feeder-set?variant=32221240000565 -

That bottom-feed design machine probably the most copied in the world under a lot of different name badges . 'Cheap' price for, and plentiful on those shank Feet , Dogs , Needle Plates ... and Roller foot part/kits , and other machine parts that are all over the internet for sale . Also.. you wanting a servo swap from the clutch motor . Easy and cheap, just get a small drive pulley for motor for betters low end control . And for your ( Stuck Bobbin Case ) question . are you saying ? , you Can't lift the small release lever, to take Bobbin out of the basket ? , Or , you lift leaver and Bobbin Case Wont Slide Out ? 2 things .. 'some' under/side bobbins , If your Needle is ( down on it's stroke ) You Cant take out your Bobbin Case . Or , If your lift lever is Stuck and ( wont lift ) . You ( Probably ? ) something blocking hing movement , maybe ? thread wrapped over the Lever, or there No Room for the lever to lift up ?? . That's one good thing ( i like ) about Top-Load if you get a pile of thread wrapped under the bobbin and lever won't lift , is that you can easy take off the Gib and remove and clean-out and put back in, because it staring straight up in the face at you under the slide cover . But .. You have a Side/under table bobbin assembly and is a little more of a pain in the ass, but still doable , and good learning lesson for basic sew machine maintenance mechanics . 'for me' , Easiest way I would do , but harder scenario ( for you ) , is that you loosen screws and remove the the whole assembly off the shaft . Easy to see all and asses the problem of 'why' , and put hands-on to fix . Then just re-time Hook and Needle . .

Don't know if I have any ..." skills " ??? . I will Seem-Bind objects that I have made more than a 1-k + of same thing . I will still screw-up something Binding them that I don't like, and then pick stitches and do all over again ....LOL I only know about, what i do a lot, and the more repetition you do with an item your making/selling, the better you will get seam-binding those one types/shapes of objects . Seam Bind is definitely not an easy discipline to just jump into . There just are are SOooo many ways of seam binding to learn with, flat-beds, cylinder-beds, needle-feed, compound-feed, single-needle, double-needle . Then the types of different machine Binders setups with strait or 90 deg . then there a truckload of different types of binding materials also with naturals and synthetics, all with there own problems of feeding . It's a rare guy, who even has seam-bind hands-on knowledge with even 2 or 3 of the different numerous sew trade disciplines in sewing that involve Seam Bind . .

Here in the NW. US. , If I type-in 'sewing machine ' in the Portland, local Craigslist sales general search . looked today, It will pop-up 193 sewing machines that are for sale . Asking prices are all over the place, there is no rhyme or reason for some of the overpriced fantasy land, asking prices for used sew machines . You can find old clean treadle machine flatbeds anywhere from 75-$ to 200-$ .. but then when looking you also see some guy with a delusional asking price of 1100-$ for an old Beatup singer 29-4 . . Then also there is a clean Singer Model # 29K60 asking 400-$ . . Seen a old singer 48" longarm singer for 1500-$ last week . .

So the smaller inside turn you making, with stiffer the materials use, it is difficult and can be a pain in ass sometimes . Also there a difference between compound and needle-feed setups Binding, but Basically for both the tighter you can get your setup into and adjusted properly, tight to the needle the easier for the real tight turns. OK.. doing a .. ( real quick and dirty example here ) . after that last post just made, and just grabbed some heavy vinyl and, putting 1/4" foam in-between . My single needle cylinder bed has binder taken off for another run n item, and I only have my 2 double-needle flatbeds stringed-up for seam Bind 3/4" type3 . So quick couple pics. example of, 'scrunching' some small pleats behind the inside radius your turning/taping . - -

If your 90 deg. Binder throat feeding is real close and setup to the needle makes easier . Don't know how supple flexible the material/panel is your binding ? Or if you have internal stiffening added to panel ? . Your Pic. it Looks a little thick but manageable . Larger inside radius Binding is lot easier . The more difficult tighter smaller ' Inside radius turns ' and Binding, is easier if you can physically grab material inside behind Inside radius turn you working on, With fingers , squeeze make a few small pleats to straighten the curve as you Seam Bind it . If your panel and has small tight Inside Radius , And you can't manhandle and scrunch material behind the inside radius to straighten little bit . Then you need to really learn ' your technique ' and practice on some practice panels before turning a tight one on the final product . And it does make a lot easier if your 90Deg. Binder throat is feeding tight to needle . Also maybe ? move to little 'shorter stitch per inch' just on that little inside turn might help keep tape tracking out and smoother . When stitch out of the inside radius, change SPI back to normal before the turn. .

Who can tell me ??? , Is there any Sew machine brand name in 2021 , that does not subcontract some or all parts from China ? Juki is a solid machine . And the last New Juki I bought say's .. Made In China .....LOL , But It is all about QC and the quality of part Spec. by the manufacture, even body finish and outer coating . Even so, I have a couple clones that run like Champs and most likely will outlive me, to sold to someone else and used for years. .

Hey also ..when you setting zigzag adjustment and doing Needle L and R on the Hook rotation . some needle have a little longer needle scarf cut , So make sure you not tapping the Hook top bottom of the scarf . .

You doing large skin/panels on Ultralites ? , just curious if you thought about getting a 2 or 3 point Cam for the work . And yes, that was the 146 I was looking at ...LOL , a good buy does pop-up every now and then. That is a solid machine . .

hey noticed that you up North of me . Did you pick that Consew up off craiglist ? , I noticed a couple of RB146's on there for sale few months back and one was cleam machine and a good pricing . II was even mulling over doing the long drive up and back I-5 to buy it . --- With you drive belt off the hand wheel . And with the Presser Foot in UP position off the dogs . Your machine should spin pretty free by hand . 1st look, easy pretty Common ---> Is the Needle Plate binding/rubbing against the feed dogs, when you rotate by hand ?? . after screwing down the needle plate look and see and 'feel' with turning machine over by hand that the Dog not being the friction spot . If you have removed the dogs and needle plate to service . When replace them back with leaving your 2 Dog screws not tight . then when screwing the plate down, you can align the feed dog for clearance . The 2 screw heads on Dog, easy seen and just tighten down . .

( Gib ) .. not, Jib . and I know . the factory book illustration looks like they hired a chimpanzee to do there drawing ...LOL the Gib is ( plate-part ) sits behind the Hook, that is part of the outer bobbin assembly, and the Gib hold the basket on it's guide track that spins inside the outer Assembly . The outside bobbin assembly Hook and Gib . the Basket that spins inside it, is what you snap your M-size bobbins into . It is something that I am not an expert in at doing because I might only 'Time' do it every 2 or 3 years on the 146RB , but I remember it all gets a lot clearer when you start doing and watching the needle plunge on that stroke on the bobbin assembly . And, to show you ... I just dug out an 'older' used , complete bobbin assembly for 146RB1A , that I keep in case I need to rob a screw or part . KEEP all old bobbin assembly's, when you repair. because all those screws on bobbin assembly are all obnoxiously tiny and very easy lost if dropped . ... LOL , And I already have robbed a screw off this old Gib . Popping a Pic. of it and try to point to ( Gib ) . and if you look at yours on your machine . You will see it is held on with 3 screws . The tip of my pencil is what the manual picture is showing , in relation to the needle plunging past end of Gib . .. also, everyday of sewing, put a tiny drop of oil on that little guide track the basket spins on . - -

I got this machine and book , I always remembered it as being a little paininAss to get the timing just perfect . Tuning to get strait stitch and zigzag stitching threw all the stitch lengths, and plus all doing it all in reverse . That is a real Good quality straight/zigzag combo stitch machine and yours in the Pic. is made in Japan model to . I remember that when it say's .. " set Hook Gib 0.5mm " .. that there for me .. was just a tiny plus\minus to get it all to clik . also I remember 1st to set the needle center and to se the zigzag width all proper adjusted, before start on the needle-hook timing . -