tsunkasapa

That would depend on the size/thickness of the project. A bowie knife sheath would probably benefit from a #3. A patch knife, a #2. I find #2 to be the one I use most.

I only use the stitching wheels, don't even own any chisels. Using an awl is no more "laborious" than doing all those holes with a chisel. It does take some practice to learn to finesse it, but it is really quite simple if you have a sharp awl. And some sort of stitching "clamp" is indispensable.

As an old Boy Scout I can tell you the snap was probably plated over brass and the plating has worn away. Antique Boy Scout Leather Axe Sheath Cover - Pre-1920s | eBay Official Boy Scout Plumb Hatchet With Knife And Combination Sheath | eBay Rare! Vtg Boy Scout Western Fixed Blade Knife w/ Sheath Camping Fishing Survival | eBay

Actually it's Black Dog, Black Horse would be Tsunka'kan sapa. And no, I haven't replaced that one after the fire a few years ago. I just remember reading it in there.

Al Stohlman's book on making saddlebags goes into the details of this.

I don't use the stuff, but my guess would be that it has evaporated somewhat. Try thinning a bit down with a few drops of water and see what happens.

Glad you are happy with it.

+1 on the brass

Just wait until you have grandkid$$$$$$$$$.

I have used Denatured alcohol for decades with perfect results. And if you get Al Stohlman's "How To Color Leather" he will show all manner of things to do with tints, shades, blends, etc. Here is the MSDS for the Dye Reducer. You will notice that it is predominately isopropyl alcohol. Microsoft Word - Dye Reducer_GHS (weaverleathersupply.com)

Fist off, soap and water should be SADDLE SOAP and water. Regular soap will strip all the oils out of the leather, even the good ones. As for getting rid of the black spots, you can try a bit of oxalic acid solution applied with a Q-tip but it will likely remove any age patina as well, leaving "clean" spots. Personally, I would clean it well with saddle soap, give it a light taste of neatsfoot oil and follow with a coat of leather balm with atom wax.

I use a utility knife upon occasion, I've used the same blade for months. I always sharpen the new blades before I ever use them, and keep stropping/sharpening as I use them. They come sharp, but not REALLY sharp. Using a new blade each time is just wasting money. The same goes for Exacto blades too.

Saturday morning at 1:30AM, a drunk driver plowed through a construction zone killing one of the flaggers. The 21 YO had a blood/alcohol level of .27, more than 3 times the limit. Thankfully this was not my company or any of the people I have worked with through the years, but it still hits close to home. A young lady I had on my crew last year was offered a spot on that crew but chose not to take it. This is an extreme example of what we deal with out there, but drivers cause us all sorts of grief out there. And then they can't understand why I'm such an A-hole! I'm glad both of my certifications expire the first of next year. I'm getting too old for this crap. Rant over

Found a PICTURE of Rhino leather. Rhinoceros leather texture | Stock image | Colourbox And Elephant. Collection of african elephant leather ... | Stock image | Colourbox

On the other hand, it could be a fun, educational project, resulting in an excellent end product.

Here is one from ebay with a different center. Stainless Steel leather craft rhombus center Geometric basket weaves Stamp Tool | eBay

I don't think there is anything you can do to the edge of that. It appears to be vinyl, and as such is just plastic with a fabric back. It cannot be edge beveled and made to look good. The best you could do would be to bind the edge with a different material. "Faux" leather cannot be worked like the real thing, simply because it is NOT the real thing. As to your other question, this is probably your best bet. Kevin's SPECIAL Exotic Scrap Bag | Springfield Leather Tanned Carp Skins - IT'S FISH LEATHER in Many Different Colors | Brettuns Village | Craft Leather Supplier

basketstamps_hourglass_lg.jpg (589×235) (barrykingtools.com) Just an hourglass basket weave tool. Most any place selling stamping tools has them. X514 Craftool® Basketweave Stamp — Tandy Leather, Inc. Stamping Tool - X514S | Springfield Leather

I just use HEAVY weight poster board. You are just supposed to TRACE around them, not CUT around them. I have patterns that are 7-8 years old and they hold up just fine.

Here is another source. She is in BC. Knotty Linda -

I would say it is just what Bruce described. Round handle might be a little harder to learn, but it should do the job just fine. I use a round handle and have no issues.

Is this the one you are looking at? Vtg. C.S. Osborne Round Head Knife Leather Working Tools Harrison NJ | eBay

Does it SAY C. S. Osbourne on the blade? I have never seen one of theirs that didn't. That, rather than the ferrule should be your first clue. I can't speak to Osbourne knives, but during WWII almost ALL brass went to the war effort and manufacturers had to adapt. Ever seen a steel penny? The copper went to the war effort. So it is entirely possible that they might have been produced with a nickle ferrule.

Almost ANY ferrous metal will be magnetic. Mild steel, plain iron, are just a couple that are, but totally worthless as far as knives go. The magnet has absolutely nothing to do with the quality of the knife.