tsunkasapa

The only use I have for Swarovski is their rifle scopes.

No, not that interested.

Are they work boots, dress boots? Doing construction in the winter, and working around concrete and asphalt, I use Obenauf's twice a week. In my case, my work boots are the only thing I wear other than sandals or moccasins, so I have no "dress" shoes to worry about. There are just too many factors involved to use a "set" procedure. Leather Preservative Originally Developed for Wild-land Firefighters (obenaufs.com)

I started an order, but they wanted more for shipping than my order. I don't think so.

Jas Townsend sells brewer's pitch for lining mugs. Brewers Pitch 1 Lb – Townsends

A beard trimmer comes to mind.

I have never split thread down, but 6 ply seems far to heavy for the projects you describe. You have nothing to lose by trying.

Try rubbing with a soft cloth in a corner. Friction will sometimes "erase" the pull up. Or use a hair dryer. It is the heat that does it. But try in an out of the way spot. If it works then you do it on your project AFTER you are done, because you will create more of that as you work it. And that is why I don't use any pull up leathers for my projects. I do not find the effect attractive at all. YMMV

Sadly, oil tan/chrome tan is not the best choice for either of your endeavors.

I would think just fold the prongs down, much the same as the tube in regular snaps. Maybe "start" them with a small screw driver, but finish with the same hand setter as normal.

Knife sheaths, holsters, any number of items that require good stout leather.

For quite some time to come I fear.

For the record, Black is the absolute worst for bleeding forever and a day. It seems to do it no matter what finish is put on it.

Try denatured alcohol in an inconspicuous spot. It will remove SOME finishes.

Having worn moccasins most of my life, there is nothing that will do what you want. Wet feet are just part of wearing moccasins. Anything you put on the bottom will be gone in a day at best.

You would also have continual "bleed" at any and all couplings. In very little time you would have little or no pressure in the line.

In "How to Make Belts" Stohlman shows measuring AROUND the contours of an old belt to get the size. I would say #2

The purpose of the unwaxed thread was to work the TAPER into the end of the thread, he said to wax it after that. It isn't impossible to taper the end of waxed thread, but it is difficult and can be frustrating. As for synthetic threads, I do not put plastic into my leather projects, only linen or hemp. YMMV

I use a spokeshave to skive the buckle end of belts.

Sadly, the "leather smell" fades with time, just like "new car" smell. As for the smell of what you put on the leather, they too will fade, some just takes longer. There is nothing I know of to preserve the "smell" you are trying to capture. Even SKUNK fades away with time.

Yes, looks like mildew. Try oxalic acid in an inconspicuous area. It WILL remove mildew stains but it may well remove the color as well.

Already a place for that. Suppliers - Leatherworker.net

Here are some links to craft articles on Crazy Crow. They are good people. How To Make Moccasins – Crazy Crow Trading Post How to Make Blackfoot Moccasins – Crazy Crow Trading Post Crazy Crow Trading Post New Website and Online Store – Crazy Crow Trading Post

It is very strong stuff, but for exposed stitching, it is ugly as sin.