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tsunkasapa

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Everything posted by tsunkasapa

  1. tsunkasapa
    35 years and I still have no use/desire for a machine.
  2. tsunkasapa
    Oh! I thought you said "First rule of knife FIGHTS"(see Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid)!
  3. tsunkasapa
    I back with masking tape, a couple of layers. Back your project before wetting.
  4. tsunkasapa
    If you are just starting out, I would recommend a "Starter" set. Something like this; https://www.springfieldleather.com/Basic-10-Stamping-Set or this; https://www.springfieldleather.com/SLC-Basic-7-Stamping-Tools These will have all the tools you need to start tooling leather. You can expand your tools as your skills grow.
  5. tsunkasapa
    That would be my first guess, but pictures would be a huge help.
  6. tsunkasapa
    I see we are STILL stuck with pics of mechanical junk!
  7. tsunkasapa
    +1 on Maverick, good people.
  8. tsunkasapa
    I agree, really don't want/need to see pictures of sewing machines.
  9. tsunkasapa
    I would do a lap seam with a double row of stitching. Or do a but seam with an overlay piece. But that is just my preference.
  10. tsunkasapa
    I never use more thread than I can span with my arms spread out. Trying to sew it with just one piece is a major PITA, and totally unnecessary.
  11. tsunkasapa
    You need to do some more searching. But USUALLY, the smaller the number, the smaller the blade. www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-sewing-awl-blades/ www.etsy.com/market/awl_blades www.mainelineleather.com/products/awl-blades redoxbrand.sagecreeksaddles.com/product-category/handstitching/awl-blades/
  12. tsunkasapa
    Brewers pitch. Jas. Townsend carries it. https://www.townsends.us/products/brewers-pitch-bp293-p-373
  13. tsunkasapa
    You ALWAYS strop your tools for every use. That is just a fact of life.
  14. tsunkasapa
    What they said. No rivet.
  15. tsunkasapa
    Try rubbing the edge with a bit of saddle soap.
  16. tsunkasapa
    I would add; Use an awl and lose the chisels. You will NEVER regret it!!!!!
  17. tsunkasapa
    It looks like you are comparing veg tan to chrome tan. These are completely different types of leather. Some Milled veg tan can be quite flexible, but strap/tooling veg tan will never be as flexible as chrome tan.
  18. tsunkasapa
    Very nice.
  19. tsunkasapa
    This guy was parked in my spot in front of the house today. My family knows I don't like killing them, so Maggie scooped him up on a pitchfork and took him out to the creek bed. While they are all around our part of the country, this is only the 3rd one in 33 years.
  20. tsunkasapa
    Something I forgot to mention, because I always do it and take it for granted. I always start my stitching in hole #4 and sew BACK to #1. I then sew back to the last hole and backstitch 3 stitches. This creates a "thread rivet" that resists breaking. You might also consider a folded belt loop.
  21. tsunkasapa
    I only use linen or hemp thread. I can't see using a plastic thread on leather. I get 3 and 5 ply linen/flax from Crazy Crow. I will have to dig up the link for the hemp, but there are other sources for both.
  22. tsunkasapa
    For the record, the old saddler that taught me said that starting your stitching from your "background" was a rookie mistake.
  23. tsunkasapa
    I start 1/2 the distance of a stitch (aprox. 1/16-)from the edge. All stitching is confined to the belt loop itself. Never had a curl up, never had a thread fail. YMMV
  24. tsunkasapa
    "I stitched over the edges of my belt loops because otherwise you have a higher load on the thread and it's liable to snap (happened to me)." What were you carrying that put THAT much load on the thread? I've done harness repairs for sled dogs and never had the thread fail. I would look at the thread you are using if that is the case.
  25. tsunkasapa
    I do know that chrome tan will remove the bluing from firearms, personal experience
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