Jump to content

tsunkasapa

CFM
  • Posts

    1,472
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tsunkasapa

  1. It was 67 at 5:30 this morning in Yakima. But it's not the temps, I'm just ready for the jobs to be done for the year. Getting a bit crisp around the edges. It's not that I CAN'T keep going, I just don't WANT to. It doesn't help that I don't NEED to.
  2. Nice work. Two things I would suggest. I would use one bigger belt loop on the back. And confine the stitches to JUST the belt loop. Do not start the stitching in the "base" of the project, but rather start 1/2 stitch length from the edge of the loop.
  3. I am retired for the most part, but I still do Traffic Control for the company I worked for. That means I handle all the signs, cones, barrels and flaggers for road/street work. Back in March I set up for an 8 block street improvement job, only to get shut down. After 3 weeks of shut down we were deemed "Essential" and were allowed to go back to work. Since then I have been doing 55-62 hour (4 day)weeks and have only seen my shop in passing. I haven't been to the range, nor been able to see my grandkids. I am TOTALLY ready for this summer to end! The sooner the better!
  4. Try stitching a couple of scrap pieces, then "set" your stitches with a smooth faced mallet. Do this on your marble and I think those "little domes" should go away. That being said, it does look like a sharpness issue.
  5. It mat just be me, but it seems that the majority of posts are Sewing Machine questions. I do not sew with a machine, and never WILL sew with a machine. I signed up on this forum to learn, hear, about the CRAFT. I don't think this forum is worth my time.
  6. When tooling, I just make a loop of my masking tape, (2") and stick it to my marble. Since I back my leather with the same, it sticks in what ever position I want. I replace it as needed.
  7. Buff the hell out of it BEFORE oiling or applying the finish
  8. I have always warranted any of my goods for life, with the exception of belts and wallets. Those two items take too much abuse, and are only warranted for two years. My warrantee is to repair or replace, at MY option, THEY ship to me, I ship back. That is as fair as it comes.
  9. I bought what was referred to as a "Grandpa's Sit N Stitch" at the Pendleton Leather show 2 years ago. $20 and a few hours of my time. I wouldn't sew at anything else! They DO exist.
  10. Totally YOUR choice, but I don't/WON'T use synthetics. If you are working with leather, WHY would you introduce PLASTIC? Your mileage may vary.
  11. Here is the same one for $5 less. https://makersleathersupply.com/collections/blue-guns/products/operator-1911-a1-5
  12. As with anything, your stitching will improve with practice.
  13. Greetings. The PNW is a big patch of territory, can you whittle it down some?
  14. https://makersleathersupply.com/collections/blue-guns My take on these and other items was to tack on $5-10 per project if it was something you can use for others. Obviously a 1911 is more common than a Nambu, so you may want to add the entire cost of the Nambu Blue Gun(I don't know if they do a Blue Nambu, just an obscure example).
  15. If my granddaughter sees that she'll want me to make one.
  16. Oregon Leather is also in Eugene, somewhat closer than Portland. You might also call Maverick Leather over in Bend. They are good people and I do a fair bit of business with them. https://maverickleathercompany.com/
  17. Natural fibers are the only ones that "take" dye. Synthetics may get dye ON them, but the results are not good. Linen, hemp etc is the way to go if you want to dye it. I do occasionally dye thread for a project, but mostly I just use brown or black. I never cared for the look of natural/white thread on any project unless it is white leather. There have been times when I want that contrast, but not very often.
  18. I have done business with these folks a couple times and was satisfied with the service. They are down in North Carolina. I don't know if the quality is any better, but their veg-tan scrap is running 3lbs for $16. https://www.zackwhite.com/ A couple that I use more frequently are; https://maverickleathercompany.com/ https://montanaleather.com/ And finally, here are some double shoulders that Weaver has a good deal on. It IS heavier than what you were thinking of, but it is a good sized piece for not much more than you paid for the scrap. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/lot-190507/veg-tanned-natural-double/pr_60902/cp_/shop-now/clearance Hope any of this helps.
  19. That is a thonging or stitching chisel. From the picture I can't tell if it is for lacing or stitching, but here in the Northwest of the U.S. I have never heard them called a "pricking iron.
  20. And, really, after over 40 years of leatherworking, I STILL don't know what the hell a "pricking iron" is. I HEAR all manner of things wrongly called that, but I have NEVER actually MET a "Pricking Iron".
  21. Also, LACING/THONGING chisels or for hand stitching?
  22. OK OK OK This I can make simple. To start out, I HIGHLY recommend this 3 ply waxed flax from Crazy Crow. It is inexpensive. It is consistent. And it is easy to work with. And the good folks are very easy to work with. https://www.crazycrow.com/craft-thread/waxed-linen-cord-3-ply-45-yards This and their 5 ply are my go to threads for hand stitching, and it will get you going on hand stitching.
  23. Since many others have offered you advice on leather, I will refrain to keep things simple. What I WOULD suggest, is, rather than just "USA" for your location, put your ACTUAL location so we could direct you to regional sources. Here in the Northwest we have several very good, very helpful leather dealers, and I'm sure that others have the same. So, help US help YOU. I promise not to send you spam!
  24. Very nice work +1 on the black
×
×
  • Create New...