tsunkasapa

I don't think there is anything you can do to the edge of that. It appears to be vinyl, and as such is just plastic with a fabric back. It cannot be edge beveled and made to look good. The best you could do would be to bind the edge with a different material. "Faux" leather cannot be worked like the real thing, simply because it is NOT the real thing. As to your other question, this is probably your best bet. Kevin's SPECIAL Exotic Scrap Bag | Springfield Leather Tanned Carp Skins - IT'S FISH LEATHER in Many Different Colors | Brettuns Village | Craft Leather Supplier

basketstamps_hourglass_lg.jpg (589×235) (barrykingtools.com) Just an hourglass basket weave tool. Most any place selling stamping tools has them. X514 Craftool® Basketweave Stamp — Tandy Leather, Inc. Stamping Tool - X514S | Springfield Leather

I just use HEAVY weight poster board. You are just supposed to TRACE around them, not CUT around them. I have patterns that are 7-8 years old and they hold up just fine.

Here is another source. She is in BC. Knotty Linda -

I would say it is just what Bruce described. Round handle might be a little harder to learn, but it should do the job just fine. I use a round handle and have no issues.

Is this the one you are looking at? Vtg. C.S. Osborne Round Head Knife Leather Working Tools Harrison NJ | eBay

Does it SAY C. S. Osbourne on the blade? I have never seen one of theirs that didn't. That, rather than the ferrule should be your first clue. I can't speak to Osbourne knives, but during WWII almost ALL brass went to the war effort and manufacturers had to adapt. Ever seen a steel penny? The copper went to the war effort. So it is entirely possible that they might have been produced with a nickle ferrule.

Almost ANY ferrous metal will be magnetic. Mild steel, plain iron, are just a couple that are, but totally worthless as far as knives go. The magnet has absolutely nothing to do with the quality of the knife.

Deertan IS chrome tan.

I just roll them grain in so they don't get scratches, and stack on the shelf under my bench.

Just because Tandy's WEBSITE says they are out, does not mean a local store doesn't have a bottle sitting on the shelf.

Sounds like they want someone to teach them how to do it.

Fast Orange works too, but I don't usually worry about it either.

I use old porcelain electrical insulators. Different companies had different sizes of grooves for the wire. They work great.

Look for "Bag Feet", as in handbags and luggage feet. 9mm Double Hexagonal Feet (pacifictrimming.com)

I frequently WASH deer and elk skins in the washing machine. Cold water, and laundry SOAP, not detergent. White King is one brand, Ivory Snow flakes is another. It may take 2-3 cycles to remove all of that, but at this point it is a cheaper option than buying more leather. I usually hang them till mostly dry, then tumble in the dryer with no heat. A couple of baseballs helps "beat" them soft as they finish drying. For the record, deer and elk can be dyed with Rit dye. Blend different colors, experiment on scrap until you find the color you want.

Nice project! The only change I would offer would be to match the angles of all the basketweave.

As to #1; skive a bit off the back to get it to fit the tip. There usually set screws that hold the tip on. Some tips are pinned on, but the hole goes through both front and back. #2; Usually the various pieces are held in place with snaps or Chicago Screws. Al Stohlman's Belts Galore has all the information you need to make a Ranger belt. I thought it was available through Tandy's Leathercraft Library, but it seems it is not. But there are several Youtube videos on them.

How do the UPC numbers compare? Are they the same? Is it just a new label for the same product?

I think I would have wet it and formed BEFORE all of the coloring and finish. I can't think of anything to get rid of the stain at this point.

You, sir, have NAILED IT! It is so easy to go down the rabbit hole and get lost. Just make one and learn. No bigger than that project seems to be, it won't be a huge expense if the first one doesn't turn out as expected. Odds are it will still be usable for something, give it to a young person to keep "treasures" in. The thing is to jump in and DO it, and learn from what you have done.

Things you never think of......I made myself a new belt a couple weeks ago. Nothing real fancy, a 1 3/4" ranger belt for everyday wear. But I decided to try "gunslinger" stitching on it. Got everything assembled, handstitched 32" of "gunslinger", not even thinking that each stich takes up just a TINY BIT when tightened. Got it all done and the belt was 3/4" too short! It is stretching back out after wearing it, but I hadn't even considered that tiny bit for each stitch at the time.

This stuff from Bee Natural is great! Does not change the color or stiffen the leather. I've used it on my buckskins with excellent results. I also used it on a leather canteen cover and have had no complaints from my customer. It is spendy, but very effective. Natural Leather Protector - 16oz (beenaturalleathercare.com)

In all the years I have done this, I have never used those plastic finishes, or had dye transfer, with the exception of black. And even that has been minimal.