jrdunn

Yup. I just watched some of it. That was a very large side! Don't forget, most of us are larger than Liz too.

Apologies, In my last post, I mispoke(or mistyped). The machine is a Rex 26-188. The needle bar is for a Singer 16-188. I guess I didn't catch it in time to edit.

For anyone that this might help later on, here is an update. This is all done on a very tight budget, so I'll include expenses. I ordered a needle bar p/n 4264 from sharpsewing on EBay for $11.85 (So far they have been a very good vendor for me.) This is listed as a NB for a class 17 but is also listed in the parts list for the Singer 16-188. It worked great in the Rex 26-188. It was a little longer than the original but worked fine. Thank you, Constabulary! I replaced the motor sheave with a 1.75" that I had laying around. I ordered a 9.25" sheave from Zoro.com, pn G3228766, $34.02 and QT bushing pn G2537991, $10.14. This gave me an approximate 5.3:1 ratio, estimated speed of 326 SPM. The hand wheel is asymmetrical (It balances the sewing machine.) I was concerned about this. The machine runs quite smoothly with the new sheave and significantly lower speeds. The sheave is similar weight to the original hand wheel. The larger diameter should increase the centrifugal force and make it punch through leather better. The clutch still acted more like an on/off switch. More research here yielded the idea of putting grease on the clutch. It works great! I am however, concerned how it might perform when the temperatures warm up. For those who don't know, this is a dual feed machine. The bottom feed and walking foot work together to move the material( in this case, leather) being sewn. This is my first time using a dual feed machine. It performed very well with even stitching except when stepping up to thick layers. As long as I kept the foot pressure adjusted, it didn't mark anything significantly except some "pull up leather". That was "smoothed" out with a little rubbing. The machine ran slow and smooth. I apologize for this being so long. I am only including so many details in the hope that it might help someone down the line. It will sew veg tan, although 3 layers of 5-6oz puts a little strain on it. So, for up to belts and knife sheaths, I think it'll work fine. My friend makes western chaps and is hoping this will shorten his time to make a pair. Thanks again to everyone, Jim

Just FYI, https://leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-class-4-p-heavy-duty-stitcher-with-eps/

Welcome Rich!

That is a screw pin shackle, sometimes called a Crosby(brand) or mistakenly called a clevice. A clevis pin isn't threaded.

i haved used veg tan on the yokes but not for the "leggings". I can't imagine how long or hard a man would have to work to wear through 4-5oz chrome tan as long as they are cared for. I'm sure not saying it can't be done but sure that I can't do it. With 4-5 oil tan it's sometimes difficult to get them supple enough to be comfortable.

My sincerest apologies! I was wanting to show the lacing, so I grabbed the first picture I came to. Those aren't the ones I made but the picture I, more or less "copied". I used a slightly wider front belt and an 1.5" back belt and my photography isn't near that good. No, mine aren't veg tanned and I assume those aren't either. Unless you wanted to tool them, I'm not sure why you'd want veg tan. It would also be hard to get it supple enough to wear and use all day, as well as more expensive. JM2C

Just "no nonsense" working chaps but simplidity is my style (assuming I have "style").

This pair use that lacing to adjust the zipper for leg size. The leather that the zipper is sewed to has 2-3 sets of holes for the lacing to go through to make the leg size larger or smaller. Hope this helps.

Attaboy Chuck! Good work and good deed.

Your questions are way beyond my abilities but welcome and I'd sure like to see pictures of that saddle!

I respectfully disagree. I think that looks better than a "dye job". JM2C

I think most of that is polyethylene. I don't know the hazards of PE. Heck, I didn't know the hazards of PVC.

Thanks for the info. I don't know if ABS drainage pipe might be an alternative for you? It too is common for residential wastewater pipes in the U.S. I guess I need to get my leather out of that 8" PVC. It sure is handy, though.

Perhaps even some international fame! Nice work by the way.

Fred, I do know that in the U.S. and Canada PVC is widely used in water and wastewater mains. That is not to say that we always do things that are good for us. With some experience in water and wastewater treatment and some training(Some people will brag about anything.), I have never heard this. Do you have any information what effect these chlorides have on the water or the leather? Chlorine is often used in the treatment of both, maybe that's why it wasn't mentioned. I'm not trying to hijack the thread, just wondering what this might cause.

That is a good looking maul, Chuck!

Does anyone have information on the handwheel/sheave or do I need to go the "speed reducer route?

Constabulary, Thank you for the response! I think this is the information I was needing. I have a parts list for the 16-188 and it lists the needle bar (p/n 4264) that you put in your 34K. I double checked the measurements and they are the same. I have found an Ebay seller that has that part #. He lists it for a Singer 17 also. Thanks again, Jim PS. I should confess that everything I know about sewing machines came from this forum. Thank you to all our members!

The needle bar was stuck. The bend is slight and at the place where it was sticking out of the machine. I assume someone tried to coax it loose, it fell over or got hit by something else. These are just my guesses. Thanks for the help!

Someone gave a friend of mine a Rex 26-188. My research here on this forum indicates that it is a clone of The Singer 16-188. (Thank you, everyone for all the information that has been contributed over the years!) It was stuck with surface rust from being stored improperly. After copious amounts of kerosene and elbow grease, I got it rolling over. It, of course came with a clutch motor set up to run about 2000 SPM. A 1725 rpm motor, 3.5" drive sheave and 3" sheave on the balance wheel. I got it sewing and discovered that the needle bar is bent. Finally, the questions: 1) Does anyone know if the needle bar from the Singer 16-188 will fit the Rex? And where I might get one? 2) Does anyone know where I might get a sheave at least 6" o.d. with a 14 mm bore? Will it be OK to replace the hand wheel with a sheave? Any other information is welcome and will be appreciated. Thanks, Jim

That!

I only WISH my first actual project looked that good! Nice work. I'm sure he'll love it.

And I really like the looks of the ones that Chuck has made.