jrdunn

I wondered this but assumed everyone would know what a "cheapskate" I am for buying such a cheap blanket.

No help here but this seems to be a Bernina motto(or montra, or something). My wife uses and loves Bernina machines but anytime you need service on a machine that is over two years old, that seems to be the answer. "We don't support that machine anymore." I do wish you the best of luck, though. Jim

Me too.

Not exactly what you asked for. Here is what you sharpen the ones you have with. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-2939/weaver-strop-board-kit/pr_51012 The ones you have make a "rounded" corner. The flat bottomed ones will make a "beveled" corner. I prefer rounded. Most places that have tools have flat bottomed bevelers, Tandy, SLC, Weaver, etc. JM2C

Carrie, If you or someone you know is a "tinkerer", they are good for burnisher, buffer or sander drives. Maybe anything else that you want to turn and don't mind having a clutch on. JM2C, Jim

I have that pattern and have made it a few times. It's useful but if I use it now, it's with a lot of "modifications". For shotgun chaps, I think the Springfield Leather pattern is better. Historically accurate? I don't know. I haven't been around for as much history as some people think. OBTW, I have had the front billet hook over the saddle horn in a "storm"(BLM wild horse). I took a couple hard bounces before it broke and was I glad it did. I had made the buckle billet out of 3-4 oz veg tan. I thought it was too weak when I made it but decided later maybe it was too strong. It was just what I had. JM2C

Dwight, Do I detect a little Jefferson Airplane? Jim

Another problem with "step ins", If you already have some of that green gravy on your boots, it will most likely end up inside your chaps. JM2C

+1 for Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing

Yeah, that.

Th Thanks for the help. I see what I was doing wrong.

I'm interested. Any accessories?

Different story for me. Needles 317(I can't find the BPS sign on my keyboard.). Shipping 49.99. But, I can order from RMLS.

Cool!

Rarely. I usually select the leather by what the "customer"(be they self, friends, family or customers). I saw that you watched Springfield Leather's Chaps video. You should remember that SLC had a whole warehouse of leather to choose from to find their side. You will have one to choose from. If you call your leather shop, they might check "your side" to see if two legs will fit before they send it. I dunno. JM2C, Jim

That's great! I was starting think that one of us would have to send you some.

I usually buy "sides" but cut them from the back area.

Yup. I just watched some of it. That was a very large side! Don't forget, most of us are larger than Liz too.

Apologies, In my last post, I mispoke(or mistyped). The machine is a Rex 26-188. The needle bar is for a Singer 16-188. I guess I didn't catch it in time to edit.

For anyone that this might help later on, here is an update. This is all done on a very tight budget, so I'll include expenses. I ordered a needle bar p/n 4264 from sharpsewing on EBay for $11.85 (So far they have been a very good vendor for me.) This is listed as a NB for a class 17 but is also listed in the parts list for the Singer 16-188. It worked great in the Rex 26-188. It was a little longer than the original but worked fine. Thank you, Constabulary! I replaced the motor sheave with a 1.75" that I had laying around. I ordered a 9.25" sheave from Zoro.com, pn G3228766, $34.02 and QT bushing pn G2537991, $10.14. This gave me an approximate 5.3:1 ratio, estimated speed of 326 SPM. The hand wheel is asymmetrical (It balances the sewing machine.) I was concerned about this. The machine runs quite smoothly with the new sheave and significantly lower speeds. The sheave is similar weight to the original hand wheel. The larger diameter should increase the centrifugal force and make it punch through leather better. The clutch still acted more like an on/off switch. More research here yielded the idea of putting grease on the clutch. It works great! I am however, concerned how it might perform when the temperatures warm up. For those who don't know, this is a dual feed machine. The bottom feed and walking foot work together to move the material( in this case, leather) being sewn. This is my first time using a dual feed machine. It performed very well with even stitching except when stepping up to thick layers. As long as I kept the foot pressure adjusted, it didn't mark anything significantly except some "pull up leather". That was "smoothed" out with a little rubbing. The machine ran slow and smooth. I apologize for this being so long. I am only including so many details in the hope that it might help someone down the line. It will sew veg tan, although 3 layers of 5-6oz puts a little strain on it. So, for up to belts and knife sheaths, I think it'll work fine. My friend makes western chaps and is hoping this will shorten his time to make a pair. Thanks again to everyone, Jim

Just FYI, https://leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-class-4-p-heavy-duty-stitcher-with-eps/

Welcome Rich!

That is a screw pin shackle, sometimes called a Crosby(brand) or mistakenly called a clevice. A clevis pin isn't threaded.

i haved used veg tan on the yokes but not for the "leggings". I can't imagine how long or hard a man would have to work to wear through 4-5oz chrome tan as long as they are cared for. I'm sure not saying it can't be done but sure that I can't do it. With 4-5 oil tan it's sometimes difficult to get them supple enough to be comfortable.

My sincerest apologies! I was wanting to show the lacing, so I grabbed the first picture I came to. Those aren't the ones I made but the picture I, more or less "copied". I used a slightly wider front belt and an 1.5" back belt and my photography isn't near that good. No, mine aren't veg tanned and I assume those aren't either. Unless you wanted to tool them, I'm not sure why you'd want veg tan. It would also be hard to get it supple enough to wear and use all day, as well as more expensive. JM2C